Breaker bars

[955point9cummins]

What makes a good breaker bar? They all seem pretty simple and hard to make them wrong. As long as the steel used to make them is good it seems the bar would be just fine. I know the purpose of them is to protect your ratchets but I don't use expensive ratchets. I have home Depot mechanic sets that have worked for me so far. When I can't get a bolt to break free I throw my cheater bar on it. Besides protecting your tools is there any other benefit to a breaker bar? If so, what makes one better than the other?

 

[Dave455]

Well I think you just said it, as long as the steel is good, that's most of what you need! Sadly, decent steel is the one thing that many cheaper tools don't have, and I have seen breaker bars that have broken. (It's usually the square drive that shears).

Other than that, make it accurately, heat treat it properly, put a decent finish on it and you will have a decent tool! Pretty much the same as any other tool really! Cheaper ones tend to loosen up easily so the socket waggles around when you are trying to position it, but better ones have some some of spring so that the socket stays at the angle you position it!

Ratchets are not designed to break fasteners loose. I know that the better ones will take the force, and I have seen Snap On and Ko Ken ratchets subjected to huge loads without failing, but I was taught never to do this, and I've never broken a ratchet! Worn 'em out yes, but broken, no!

 

[muckerbarry]

I dont like breaking my rachets, and i dont like busting my knuckles, so i use a snap-on breaker bar when needed. Its a nice length (not to long) and as tough as old boots. Hasnt broken yet even with a 6 foot cheater on it....

 

[bobcatdan]

Breaker bars seem to be worshiped here by some. I don't use them a lot. Mostly for holding bolts while removing a nut with an impact. I had a good laugh once. I had remove six bolts torqued 200 lbs or so. I broke my matco breaker on the first bolt. Grabbed my matco 1/2" flex head, it took all six bolts out no problem.

 

[LeGarage]

I never use a breaker bar, I use my 3/4" ratchet for really tight nuts (sometimes with cheater ).

 

[Harry_Bahrrs]

When I was getting ready to do a Honda timing belt, I bought a Tekton 1706 for $57 shipped off eBay. Its a 40 inch, 3/4dr breaker bar. It tamed the infamous Honda crank bolt without too much blood, sweat, and tears.

Get yourself a big ol breaker bar like that and a 3/4 to 1/2 impact conversion socket and there will be practically nothing on a passenger car that you will not be able to break loose.

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I've got only Snap-On breaker bars in my toolbox, and I keep a HF breaker bar in each car... I think the cheapo ones will work fine to break/tighten lug nuts, but as for some other bolts that I have ran into in the past, I want a quality piece....

 

[shockwave]

Exactly it matters most on the grade of metals used to make the breaker bar. I have used many craftsmen,matco and snap on,titan and hf I can tell u that it ***** having to go to sears 3 times in one day to loosen up axle nut at my buddies house years ago to change his cv axle and ended up going to my shop and using snap on 24 inch that has never let me down.

 

[bcradio]

Only time I use a breaker is when my impact won't fit and the ratchet can't handle it.

So almost never really

 

[djjsr]

I've got 2 Craftsman bars that I bought over 40 years ago and they still work fine, although the longer one has a bit of a curved handle due to me abusing it.

I once bought a Herbrand bar, got it cheap at a tool sale. The first time I "put it to the test", (I think it may have involved a pipe), one side of the knuckle snapped off.

 

[e30bradley]

I think you guys who are afraid of breaking your ratchets are kinda.. I don't know the word. anyway, I trust my ratchets wont break but since my longest is a 15" mac when I need more torque I use my 24" snap on breaker bar. I've removed some seriously tight nuts with it. I also have some older craftman 1/2" dr breakers that seem pretty good as well.

 

[mattygee]

A lot of people, including myself, have the HF 1/2" drive 25" long bar. It's a lot better than the price and brand would suggest.

M

 

[Stooge]

A lot of people, including myself, have the HF 1/2" drive 25" long bar. It's a lot better than the price and brand would suggest.

M

i have a couple snap on 1/2 and 3/8, a 17" craftsman 1/2 and just recently picked up the HF 25" and i cant believe how stout this thing is for only being like $10. im right around 220lbs and i was literally hanging off of it trying to get a lower strut bolt off of a late model jeep to free up, that was good enough for me to prove it got a pass. one of the highlights of my HF purchases recently.

 

[85camaro]

Breaker bars rule. Why risk damage and wear to an expensive ratchet when it only takes a moment to use a breaker bar instead?

 

[signcrafter]

I have a 24" snap on ratchet that will take most bolts off without flinching. But I also have a few breaker bars that are really nice in certain situations. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" drive breaker bar that have come in handy because they were the only thing that would fit and I could get a cheater bar on in some tight places. I don't use them a lot because like others have mentioned a good ratchet will take most bolts off.

For those that think guys are "whatever" for using a breaker bar so not to break a ratchet its like using a truck to haul 1000 pounds of rocks instead of putting them in the trunk of your malibu. I don't baby my ratchets but there's just some times that a breaker bar is better. It's just another tool that you should have in your box as an option.

I also have a few HF breaker bars and for the money they are really nice also.

 

[snapmom]

I carry one in my car too, with a deepwell sock for the tire lugs. When you gets old, you need all the help you can get.

 

[scaron]

i never used to use breaker bars until i got nice ratchets, LOL. now, to me, using them is just a trivial precaution against totally beating the **** out of my ratchet. it can be nice to have all that leverage, without having to fool around with a pipe or cheater bar. i have breaker bars so far from wright tool and proto. i'll probably get a set of bonneys at some point in time as well. i like them both, in their own way, but the wright bar is a real piece of work.

 

[MackMan]

I do want to get some breaker bars, but I've always been on the fence about their usefulness. Typically the times I find myself using a cheater bar are also times I need to "re-set" the ratchet, or use the rotation of the ratchet to get the socket on in a tight spot. I've had plenty of times where I can only get 1 "tooth" on my dual 80's. between turns. Big part of why I got the Snap-On because there was too much slop in my Craftsman.

 

[spacedoutbob]

I keep a 1/2" drive Snap On breaker bar in my truck and car. I also have a duplicate of the SN 18 and SN 24 in my main tool set along with a 36" 3/4" Drive Snap On breaker bar. That is my preference.

Bob

 

[Outlawmws]

I carry one in my car too, with a deepwell sock for the tire lugs. When you gets old, you need all the help you can get.

I think many are missing the advantage of a breaker. Generally a breaker bar is LONGER than the same size ratchet. Yes it saves undue strain on the ratchet, and may prevent breakage, but it also saves wear and tear on YOU. I notice many say you use a cheater on your ratchet. OK, make your 9" ratchet 18" long and you have more leverage. A breaker is already 18" (or more) long... Archimedes lives guys... (Tell me he didn't live in vain...)

 

[joel63]

I carry one in my car too, with a deepwell sock for the tire lugs. When you gets old, you need all the help you can get.

I just started doing that too.
Somewhere along the line, I got old.
I also have the socket along with the breaker bar to loosen the the serpentine belt tensioner if I ever need to replace the belt.

 

[joel63]

I do want to get some breaker bars, but I've always been on the fence about their usefulness. Typically the times I find myself using a cheater bar are also times I need to "re-set" the ratchet, or use the rotation of the ratchet to get the socket on in a tight spot. I've had plenty of times where I can only get 1 "tooth" on my dual 80's. between turns. Big part of why I got the Snap-On because there was too much slop in my Craftsman.

" There is a difference" .

 

[Tsquare]

I think many are missing the advantage of a breaker. Generally a breaker bar is LONGER than the same size ratchet. Yes it saves undue strain on the ratchet, and may prevent breakage, but it also saves wear and tear on YOU. I notice many say you use a cheater on your ratchet. OK, make your 9" ratchet 18" long and you have more leverage. A breaker is already 18" (or more) long... Archimedes lives guys... (Tell me he didn't live in vain...)

+1.

 

[mrjaw14]

I prefer a breaker bar and socket to the lug nut wrench included in cars now days. I use a 25" harbor freight breaker with a 3pc set of reversible lug sockets so I can use it on other people's vehicles as well if I get called or stop to help someone change a tire.

Other than that, I'll use a breaker to back up an impact wrench because a ratchet just isn't the right tool. I'm all about trusting good tools, but that's abuse in my opinion...but I'm not a flat rate tech with a snapon guy coming to visit weekly either.

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I carry a proto 12" 1/2" in my company vehicle.....I also carry a set of pittsburg 3pc (6 sizes) lugnut sockets, in all of my vehicles, with HF breaker bars........

 

[Outlawmws]

I just started doing that too.
Somewhere along the line, I got old.
I also have the socket along with the breaker bar to loosen the the serpentine belt tensioner if I ever need to replace the belt.

I don't think "Old" is the issue, I think for lug nuts it's the nuts behind the ****** impact wrenches...

I routinely have to go "bust something loose" that my 25 YO son cannot get loose...

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I don't think "Old" is the issue, I think for lug nuts it's the nuts behind the ****** impact wrenches...

I routinely have to go "bust something loose" that my 25 YO son cannot get loose...

I agree..A buddy of mine is 65 and he is still as strong as an ox....He's 6'5" and about 300 lbs.....

 

[monomach]

A lot of people, including myself, have the HF 1/2" drive 25" long bar. It's a lot better than the price and brand would suggest.

M

Boy, it really is. It's one of HF's true gems.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html

 

[Bill Ramsey]

I think many are missing the advantage of a breaker. Generally a breaker bar is LONGER than the same size ratchet. Yes it saves undue strain on the ratchet, and may prevent breakage, but it also saves wear and tear on YOU. I notice many say you use a cheater on your ratchet. OK, make your 9" ratchet 18" long and you have more leverage. A breaker is already 18" (or more) long... Archimedes lives guys... (Tell me he didn't live in vain...)

THIS^^^.

And you can get various length breaker bars. Sometimes just a little love is needed, sometimes more. And it may just be me, but I can 'feel' when the fastener just starts to turn better with a breaker bar than with a ratchet.

 

[454ragtop]

Haven't seen this mentioned, but I find breaker bars come in handy for freeing badly seized bolts where you need to work them in both directions to keep from breaking them. Use my 1/4" all the time on bleeder screws. Bump with my fist one way, then the other, till they free up. Have a lot of them in all drive sizes, including a real long 1/2" Snap On a friend gave that had a bent handle, probably from the addition of a cheater. Straightened it out good as new in the press.
Jim

 

[bobcatdan]

Breaker bars rule. Why risk damage and wear to an expensive ratchet when it only takes a moment to use a breaker bar instead?

What is the point of buying an expensive ratchet if you are scared to use it. I will put a pipe on any of my ratchets any day including a $200 SO. A tool is not worth having if you are afraid it will break.

 

[ChevyEFI]

For me, a breaker is the best way to get your pulling grip in line with the fastener with the least clearance about the socket. My go-to ratchets are roto, which I love since you can put your handle perpendicular to the bolt head. Similarly, the breaker bar does the same without the clearance issues. But, my 3/8 breaker is a SO 10" and my fav. Ratchets are SK 3870 of similar length so I only grab the breaker when needed. Yep, I need to get a longer 3/8 breaker.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Only use the breaker if I'm jumping on it or I need to hit it with something. Newer ratchets should easily be able to handle the force that one can apply without a cheater.

 

[MackMan]

I think many are missing the advantage of a breaker. Generally a breaker bar is LONGER than the same size ratchet. Yes it saves undue strain on the ratchet, and may prevent breakage, but it also saves wear and tear on YOU. I notice many say you use a cheater on your ratchet. OK, make your 9" ratchet 18" long and you have more leverage. A breaker is already 18" (or more) long... Archimedes lives guys... (Tell me he didn't live in vain...)

How about this one?
http://store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174...ndard-Handle-1-2-drive-24-13-16--P651015.aspx

This is the ratchet I got
http://store.snapon.com/Dual-80-174...ng-Standard-Handle-1-2-drive-15--P651018.aspx

If you have some serious issues, you can get this
http://store.snapon.com/Non-Catalog-Items-1-2IN-DR-RATCHET-40IN-LONG-P9780824.aspx

Their longest breaker bar is 36"... Of course it's also $500 cheaper.

I have actually found the 15" is able to take care of lots of stuff my old Craftman would not without a cheater.

[/COLOR]

" There is a difference" .

It's a huge one. F80 and SL80A are worth their weight in gold... and their weight is substantial. That 24" flex head is high on my wish list too.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I prefer a breaker bar and socket to the lug nut wrench included in cars now days.

I recommend to everyone that they carry an impact socket sized to fit their lugnuts, a good breaker bar, extension and maybe a cheater pipe in thier car to change thier lugnuts with. The factory lugwrenches these days are pathetic...aren't even good for hitting somebody over the head.

Hell it wouldn't be a bad idea to take the next step and tack the socket, extension, and breaker bar together with a welder to keep them losing a component.

 

[955point9cummins]

Basically what I am getting from this thread..

For roadside tire changes a breaker bar with a socket is the way to go.

For the weekend grease monkey they are nice to have, but if you don't care about your 3 dollar ratchet a chunk of pipe will fit the bill.

I'll save my money for other tools

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

What is the point of buying an expensive ratchet if you are scared to use it. I will put a pipe on any of my ratchets any day including a $200 SO. A tool is not worth having if you are afraid it will break.

Why chance breaking an expensive ratchet that will take at least a week to get fixed when I can walk over to my tool box and grab a breaker bar that I know won't break? 30 seconds vs. 7 days........seems like a no brainer to me.

Warranties are great, but I prefer to not have to use them.

 

[sparky5982]

There's an important attribute for breaker bars that I haven't seen mentioned yet - stiffness. A breaker bar isn't much good if all your torque is robbed by flex in the bar.

I bought the harbor freight breaker bar after reading rave reviews here, and it falls down hard on this criteria. I never use it because it flexes so terribly. It doesn't "break" anything. A short ratchet breaks bolts free far better than that 25" bar. Expensive at $10, worth about $5, and only then because I suppose you could prop a door open with it. Not a heavy door though. A closet door.

Now I use a 3/4" drive Wright ratchet for this purpose. It is thoroughly excellent.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Basically what I am getting from this thread..

For roadside tire changes a breaker bar with a socket is the way to go.

For the weekend grease monkey they are nice to have, but if you don't care about your 3 dollar ratchet a chunk of pipe will fit the bill.

I'll save my money for other tools

I don't follow this reasoning. I use my breaker bars all the time at home. Low cost, great to have, work very well. I mean I don't typically reach for the breaker bar if I'm using the ratchet alone to break something loose but instead of slipping a cheater over a ratchet handle I'll use a breaker bar if possible.

Warranties are great, but I prefer to not have to use them.

Amen. Yes I know I can get my *insert tool here* replaced at no cost but that means I gotta go get it replaced (or if I'm a mechanic at a shop, wait for the tool truck...) but in the meantime the job has to be done. If I can avoid that interruption by using another tool that I have, so much the better. Isn't this site big on use the proper tool for the job? Yes I've used ratchets with cheater pipes and have seldom had one fail or damaged but I'd rather use the proper tool for the job, especially since it's at my disposal.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I use my breaker bars now more than I used to. Then again I have more and better ones than I used to as well. I've got them in 1/4" drive up to 3/4" drive and up to 40" long.

If you're bouncing the bar some while trying to break something loose, you eliminate the chance of ratchet neutral. Happens far less on better ratchets, but still a possibality. Plus, breaking loose tough fastners with a breaker bar is using the right tool for the job. Hence their name breaker bars.