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Breaker box on basement wall

Leaflessshadetree

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Aug 1, 2013
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Don't ask.
I may be over thinking this. Getting ready to have new breaker panel installed in my basement. The walls are concrete block and do get damp (the old box rusted).
I'm thinking about mounting the new box on unistrut to space it off the wall.
Any problem with doing this?
Is there any reason I might have a preference for running the unistrut horizontal or vertical? Or for having it extend below or to the side of the box?
 
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Dyt

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Dec 8, 2010
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Home of the Buzzard, Ohio
Plywood allows for mounting of other items such as an outlet off the box, cable splitters or phone terminal boxes if these items enter at the same spot and if sized properly can serve as a base for a cabinet enclosure.
 

volleyball

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NY, not NYC
I didn't know that you could mount it directly to the concrete.
Heck mine rotted out and it was mounted on the studs.
 

The FIB

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Jan 8, 2014
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chicagoland
I think most of the panels they are selling these days have 4 mounting hole "bumps" on the back of the panel, this creates a small air gap between the panel and the wall.

I would think the gap would serve your purpose unless your wall has a really rough texture or there is excessive moisture on the wall.
 

MTW

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Aug 6, 2013
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294
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SE Michigan
I may be over thinking this. Getting ready to have new breaker panel installed in my basement. The walls are concrete block and do get damp (the old box rusted).
I'm thinking about mounting the new box on unistrut to space it off the wall.
Any problem with doing this?
Is there any reason I might have a preference for running the unistrut horizontal or vertical? Or for having it extend below or to the side of the box?

Unistrut is perfectly acceptable, and UL listed for support of electrical equipment. Loadenters stay with a building for a long time, so if it's that wet and damp, wood is not a good choice, unless marine grade. The panels are required to have the 1/4' bump out for airspace circulation behind, but as you saw sometimes that's not enough.

The objective is to keep the enclosure the same temperature as the room or warmer to prevent condensation. Attached to the wall it more closely follows the temperature of the foundation and becomes wet with condensation along with the foundation walls. Use galvanized strut instead of the powder-coated variety for better rust prevention on the strut.

I use zinc Nail on anchors for HD permanent fastening to masonry surfaces.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/mechanical/nailon/

I like to run them horizontally (less material, as strong) and cut them to the same width as the panel, keeps the wall space clear for other equipment or studs.

One other thing to watch out for is if you have an overhead service and use a cable wiring method (SE or SER cable) Sometimes a leak into the gooseneck or service cap at the top of the service riser, or UV damage to the outer covering, will allow water to get inside the jacket. It will follow the wires down and drip straight through the meter enclosure, into the the cable feeding the loadcenter in the basement.

This will usually follow the wires to the main breaker or neutral/ground buss and cause serious corrosion there too. I always caulk the bottom cable leaving the meter to prevent this from happening. Bend the conductor apart sufficiently to get a good seal around the wire. Seen it happen many times and always requires another panel or breaker replacement.

MTW Ω
 

Jlarson

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Mar 27, 2015
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AZ
Don't waste strut for a resi panel. Mount some treated 2x then painted plywood. The wood provides a handy place to staple your NM onto.
 
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finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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The UP, God's country
All the houses I have seen either have a wood (usually plywood backer or are directly mounted to the concrete ith ramsets or something similar. Never seen a problem.

If the panel rusts out in 50 years, the technology will have changed and you will want to upgrade anyway.

That's if you are still around.

You are overthinking this.
 

tfi racing

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Apr 19, 2008
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Cedar,BC
3/4 or 1" insulating pink or blue foam panel on the concrete,3/4" in plywood on top(handy for strapping/stapling cables and other accessories)screw the panel to it,or through it all to the concrete.Good for longer than any of us will be around.
 

jd_1138

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May 8, 2013
Messages
17,053
Location
NE Ohio
How about tackling the moisture issue instead of just working around it?

Bingo, the water problem should be addressed. Do you have adequate and working gutters with extensions? Ground slopes away from the foundation? Concrete have any cracks?

I did an interior french drain, and our basement's been dry ever since.
 
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volleyball

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Location
NY, not NYC
Isolation is the only way of tackling it. A basement in an area with decent humidity is going to have dampness on metal parts against a concrete wall. Part of the reason inspectors like and sometimes insist on a wood backer. I've never seen untreated plywood or boards ever rot in these situations.
I painted both sides as insurance and for appearance.
 
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