Breaker interlock for Homeline single breakers?

[Innovate1]

Have this panel in an RV. The breakers are Homeline and I checked them against regular residential breakers to make sure they are the same. Thinking of putting a second power inlet on the trailer tongue so I could connect it to the inverter connection in the pickup bed while towing. The master 30A is a dual breaker (maybe not exactly the correct term) with a 15A circuit. There is an empty blank space on the right so I could shift things over, put two 15s into a dual, and have two regular, single 30s for the sources. There is currently a clip to hold the back fed main. Is there any interlock that would be close that I could modify for the mains interlock(I don't expect to find anything exactly like I need)?

Other option would be to put a switch in the cabinet next to the panel. Now that I think about it that's probably a lot easier.

For the cord end I could use an inlet and put together a short (about 6 - 8 feet?) to go to the truck. Or just make the cord long enough and skip the extra connectors. Coil up the cord somehow - maybe put the end in the battery box or the propane tank cover for weather protection. I'm leaning toward skipping the extra connectors.

 

[PCustoms]

I'm confused what you're interlocking

 

[yatg]

They do make RV transfer boxes. Search Amazon for "rv transfer switch"

You need to switch the neutral since they are coming from different sources.

 

[Innovate1]

I have an inlet for power near the rear of the RV. It's on the side or I could just string a cord up the the inverter in the truck but having it stick out while pulling it down the road seems like a bad idea. So I want to add another power inlet up at the tongue of the trailer, keeping the one in back. So I will have two inlets. I need an interlock to keep from powering up the unused inlet. Very similar to a generator inlet for a building.

 

[Innovate1]

They do make RV transfer boxes. Search Amazon for "rv transfer switch"

You need to switch the neutral since they are coming from different sources.

The neutral is not bonded in the trailer. It relies on bonding of the source (had to get a bonding plug for the generator the first time I tried to use a generator with the trailer as the trailer refused to power up without it). So I see no need to switch the neutral. And that transfer panel seems overly complicated when I just need a switch or interlocked breakers (which would function like a spdt switch).

 

[PCustoms]

How much power can your truck inverter really supply?

What load(s) are you looking to run?

Does the trailer not have an inverter?

 

[Innovate1]

Truck inverter 7.2 kW/240V (only 3.6 kW usable on 120V which is what the trailer is).
Loads: about 500W, 2500 would be nice but not required.
It's a fairly small, simple trailer. Trailer does not have an inverter. Just a charge controller to keep the 12V batter charged.

 

[dave*99]

The neutral is not bonded in the trailer. It relies on bonding of the source (had to get a bonding plug for the generator the first time I tried to use a generator with the trailer as the trailer refused to power up without it). So I see no need to switch the neutral. And that transfer panel seems overly complicated when I just need a switch or interlocked breakers (which would function like a spdt switch).

I'm curious - does the truck inverter have a bonded neutral? Or do you need a bonding plug there too?

 

[Innovate1]

I'm curious - does the truck inverter have a bonded neutral? Or do you need a bonding plug there too?

Truck is bonded. And won't drive a bonded load.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So the rear inlet has a breaker that feeds into the panel? why not just shut it off when not in use? or put a locking cover over the inlet?

 

[Innovate1]

So the rear inlet has a breaker that feeds into the panel? why not just shut it off when not in use? or put a locking cover over the inlet?

That would work. I think the switch would be easier than adding another breaker for the added inlet. I was thinking interlocked breakers at first and went down that line of thinking for a while before it occurred to me I could just add a switch. Just need to find a 30A rated switch. There are a bunch on Amazon with supposed good ratings but I am a bit hesitant to trust the ratings.

 

[dave*99]

Leviton makes a variety of 30A double throw toggle switches. This happens to be center off, but there are others.

 

[Innovate1]

Leviton 1287 is SPDT and $115 at Amazon. Leviton 1288 is DPDT and $36 on Amazon. Both are 30A and center off but that's no issue. Don't really see a need to switch the neutral but the double pole switch is cheaper - makes no sense but I can do that. I can put a guard over it so it won't get bumped accidentally.

 

[Innovate1]

Leviton has some 30A 3 way switches that look like they would work. 3033-2. About $14 on Amazon.
https://leviton.com/products/3033-2

 

[wyliesdiesels]

That would work. I think the switch would be easier than adding another breaker for the added inlet. I was thinking interlocked breakers at first and went down that line of thinking for a while before it occurred to me I could just add a switch. Just need to find a 30A rated switch. There are a bunch on Amazon with supposed good ratings but I am a bit hesitant to trust the ratings.

Leviton makes a variety of 30A double throw toggle switches. This happens to be center off, but there are others.

i like that idea better. DT toggle switch would work