Breaking loose seized ball joints

[Raymond Fast]

I wasn't sure where this post best fits in; I put it here because it seems to me to be a "technique" question, but I'll be happy to move it if someone will direct me accordingly. In the meantime, here's my question ...

I have a 1982 Toyota Pickup that's a driving restoration project. I'm in the process now of replacing the (original) ball joints. (I'm also replacing the original wheel bearings, control arm bushings, and shocks - tie rod ends are done - but this is a ball joint question.) I spent eight hours last weekend getting the knuckle off the driver side ball joints. In the process, I about wore out my sledge hammer beating the tar out of two pickle forks. Both the upper and lower ball joints were seized about as tight as I've seen on any vehicle.

So, short of spending another eight hours this weekend on the passenger side, does anyone have any suggestions regarding tricks, techniques, or even (fairly inexpensive) special tools for breaking loose stuck ball joints?

 

[anodyne33]

Heat the yoke, apply copious pressure with a press, hit the yoke with a BFH with pressure applied.

Also don't be afraid to give it several days of repeated heat and soak with your favorite penetrant. I like 50/50 ATF and acetone myself.

 

[czervika]

Whack the side of the spindle HARD where the ball joint taper goes through. The shock will knock it loose.

Like at 1:50 in this video;

 

[that-guy]

apply heat to help it expand, then use the fork...if that still doesn't work, buy or rent a pulley puller (like those used for removing crank pulleys, water pump pulleys, etc...) and see if that will work

 

[Professur]

Take the pickle forks and throw them away. 2-3lbs steel ball peen hammer to the side of the knuckle right where the ball joint's taper runs through. If you look, they often even cast in a flat spot just for the occasion. Done it with Chevy, Dodge, Mitsubishi and Honda. Honda was tricky as their ball joints are upside down and pop right back in instead of popping open.

 

[Raymond Fast]

czervika, thanks for the link. I hadn't tried that angle before. (I've always come downward with the hammer to force the knuckle off the ball joint.) I'm going to try that technique this weekend.

that-guy, I used heat last time and it helped some, I think, but it still took way longer than I'd like. I hadn't thought about trying to get a pulley puller on it. I've got one. I'll see if I can make that work if the technique above doesn't do it.

 

[Raymond Fast]

Thanks Professur, I'm going to try that.

 

[Professur]

Some folks here suggest holding a second hammer against the side opposite the one you're hitting. I've never needed to tho.

 

[astroracer]

Before you whack the spindle loosen both of the BS nuts a couple of turns. Leave them off the surface so the spring pressure can "pop" the joint. I have never used a pickle fork for this either. The prof's method works every time.
Mark

 

[manwithtools]

Before you whack the spindle loosen both of the BS nuts a couple of turns. Leave them off the surface so the spring pressure can "pop" the joint. I have never used a pickle fork for this either. The prof's method works every time.
Mark

This

 

[owenst7]

Ideally you use a ball joint seperator to release the tapered stud. There's a few designs, and I've yet to see a vehicle that one type wouldn't fit in. I hardly ever use a pickle fork for anything. I have an OTC kit from Napa, but HF, Snap on, etc all make multiple sizes and styles.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PN010/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You remove the castle nut and load this on there real tight. Spray some penetrant around the stud so that gravity will help pull it in. Take a 3-4 lbs drilling hammer and smack hard on the knuckle perpendicular to the tapered stud as close as you can to it. The vibration will wiggle the taper in the hole and the pressing force will force it out as the friction is released. If it won't go, let it sit for an hour with a good quality penetrant (not wd40) like Kroil or the Brody stuff on there. This has always worked for me, even on 40+yr old trucks in Alaska where they salt the roads for 3/4 of the year.

That's also the proper way to do tie rod and drag link ends. Way easier than trying to fit a pickle fork in and dealing with all the flex in the steering, not to mention its easier on the sector shaft bearings in the box.

 

[Raymond Fast]

Before you whack the spindle loosen both of the BS nuts a couple of turns.

I'm drawing a blank ... "BS nuts?" What's the BS?

(Hmm ... why do I feel like I'm about to look really stupid?)

 

[jimgood]

I'm drawing a blank ... "BS nuts?" What's the BS?

(Hmm ... why do I feel like I'm about to look really stupid?)

Don't feel bad. I wondered too.

 

[rlitman]

Step 1, remove the pin and soak everything you can get to with your favorite penetrating oil (Kroil here).

Step 2, get your pickle fork and admire it. Then put it back in the toolbox.

Step 3, install rivet cutting chisel in air hammer. Unlike a normal air hammer chisel, the rivet cutting chisel has an asymmetric tip (actually, it's quite like a wood chisel though with a much less pointy angle). Put the flat bottom parallel to the socket opening, and use the cutting edge as if you were going to slice the ball joint off where it enters the socket (don't worry, it won't do that). With every blow, the angled tip will cut a little into the ball joint (don't expect to re-use it after this abuse), but will also impart a little lifting action to the joint. Eventually it will either walk out of the socket like magic, or your air hammer is too weak.

 

[rockwithjason]

ball stud nut?

 

[manwithtools]

You know, the "BS" nuts..... everybody has encountered a "BS" nut

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

If you have room, hitting the taper on opposite sides with 2 hammers simultaneously pops them apart with even less effort.

 

[malibu101]

If you have room, hitting the taper on opposite sides with 2 hammers simultaneously pops them apart with even less effort.

I have 2 hands and 2 eyes, but, I don't think I'm coordinated enough to do that.

 

[ItsNemo]

If you don't care about putting it back together, the pickel fork on a big air hammer is a lot less effort...no swinging, just hold the trigger

 

[mrolds88]

If you have room, hitting the taper on opposite sides with 2 hammers simultaneously pops them apart with even less effort.

Thats the way I do it.

 

[kkroger]

Good Air Hammer with a "HAMMER" head or pointed punch works well in place of the bigger hammer.... But I have done them with a hammer for so long...

Beware though some of the foreign (in the US) cars the taper is cross bolted....

 

[APEowner]

I've been doing this stuff for over 30 years including a couple as a front end/alignment tech and I almost never use a pickle fork and I only use the press on aluminum parts and then only on fancy cars that are owned by people who might object to hammer marks an suspension parts.

The trick to separating a tapers joint is to get the hole to flex. So, on something like a tie rod end you drive against the steering arm straight towards the spindle. The spindle holds one side solid while the other side flexes. On ball joints it's trickier but it's the same basic idea. Whack one side and support the other. If you can't drive against something hold a heavy hammer against one side while you beat on the other. You can swing both hammers but you have to be way more coordinated than I. Speaking of which. I leave a nut on the stud so if I miss (as I often do) I don't ****** the threads.

 

[astroracer]

Yea... Ball Stud Nut...

 

[fourjeepin]

Wow, that's an old truck to have so many original parts.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Whack the side of the spindle HARD where the ball joint taper goes through. The shock will knock it loose.

Like at 1:50 in this video;

Always worked for me !

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Whack the side of the spindle HARD where the ball joint taper goes through. The shock will knock it loose.

Like at 1:50 in this video;

The above pretty well works every time. I have a buddy, much younger than I, he spent an entire weekend, went through three of the "pickle forks" trying to get ball joints out of 1T Chevy van and had to return it unrepaired because he could get them to break loose using "the proper method." He did mechanic work part-time at the shop I used to rent. I was over there the next week and he was telling me about his ordeal. I explained to him how easy it was and he said "there's no way in hell it's that easy." On the way out the door I then noticed he had the front suspension to a turbo Mitsubishi sitting there. I told him I could pop the ball joints loose on that in a minute or less. He said he was in a hurry and I told him if I couldn't I'd pay his rent for the next month, he wasn't in a hurry anymore. He backed the nut off and I asked for a hammer, he brought a claw hammer, I then told him to get me a real hammer. Armed with a 3 pound hammer it took three good hits. His mouth fell open.

The idea behind it is, when you hit the part tapered ball joint is mounted in with enough force, it deforms the tapered hole slightly, because of the taper, it actually "wedges" the ball joint out. Kind of like squeezing a tube of toothpaste. You just have to apply enough force. An air chisel with a hammer head attachment works OK sometimes if you lazy.