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Brick or stone on Pole Barn... How?

PurdueSD

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Mar 25, 2006
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1,577
Location
Indiana
Can anyone weigh in on how a brick or stone accent is added to a pole barn? I am thinking of using some type of stone, possibly dry stack, as a wainscot along one side and under the porch on the pole barn i will be having put up later this year. I dont want a veneer due to the look and durabilty issues. I would assume a footer will have to be poored...?

This is the look i amtrying to accomplish...

tbarn.jpg
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
You are in frost country, so a footer will be needed.
That means you are giving away one of the big cost saving of pole construction.

But if you look at it as a “after the fact” improvement, you will have the use of the building in the meantime.
 

olytdi

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Dec 3, 2011
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Location
Olympia, Washington
You need a footing regardless of frost in order to lay stonework. Putting up stone from the footing up the wall is by definition a veneer -- what I'm hearing you say is that you don't want thin stones pasted on. Good choice!

Your location and frost depth will dictate the depth of your footing. I would pour your footing when you pour the slab. You'll need to lay your stone up from the footing using wall-ties nailed to stout underlayment and framing every foot or so as you lay up your stone. You will have problems with the wall flexing and cracking your joints if you don't.

It's not hard and actually fun but you have to do it correctly. Also use a vapor barrier between the stone work and the underlayment (can be tar paper). It is counterintuitive but using 6" - 8" stone is easier to lay than using a narrower vener -- less cutting and fussing.

For your laying mix, use 3 parts course sand, 1 part Portland cement and a half a part of lime to mix your morter. Mix it dry-ish -- damp acutally (clumps well but will not cream or bleed) and lay no more than 3 feet vertically in a day. Scratch your joints back about an inch and a half after the day's work and when completely finished laying stone, point the joints using a pointing trowel and a morter mix of a finer sand and a little more lime than previously. Again, don't make the morter wet -- should be much much less wet than brick morter. Every two or three hours, when the pointing has started to setup, take your pointing trowel and cut the edges of the joints where the morter meets the stone in order to clean up the joints and take off the "curl" from the morter caused when you pointed the joints. When pointing, do not over dress the morter. Each time you smooth-out the morter, you bring more cream to the surface which can cause a mess. Always point into your previous work such that you pack it in tight to the previous work. When the pointing is crumbly, use a wisk broom and gently brush the joints to remove the very top layer of the cement revealing the sand in the pointing mix.

After a week or so, acid wash whe whole wall with a stiff brush and muriatic acid diluted in water but wet the wall with water first and rinse everything carefully afterward.

Should look stellar.
 

RedTailHawk

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Feb 23, 2016
Messages
37
reviving this thread for a similar project...

Right now my barn has exterior barnboard walls that extend all the way to the grass/dirt ground.
barn.jpg
Obviously having wood touching the ground leads to problems (wood rot, termites, etc), so I'd like to trim the barnboard from ground to around 2' high. Then I'd like to put stone foundation around the building. Here's an example of the stone foundation that I'd like to add.
stone sill.jpg

2 questions:
1) Once I cut the lower portion of the barnboard away, do I need to create a foundation, lay cinder blocks or something and then affix stone to that?

2) I'm also in the process of deciding on a concrete floor for the barn. Should I make the stone foundation before doing the concrete floor inside the barn? Do it as part of the concrete floor? Or do it anytime after the floor is installed?
 

kgordon

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Jun 8, 2015
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Location
Syracuse NY
Do you want a true foundation? That means that all the wood framing comes off the stone. I think you just want to remove the siding and put stone up a couple feet. Is that correct?

You will still need a footer of some sort to support the stone.
 
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astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
Or just trim off 6" and add a PT rat wall. Make sure to use a good J channel to keep water from leaking in at the joint. I did this on my pole barn in 1987. I painted the cut bottom of the T-111 siding with roofing tar. Then tarred the J channel while installing it. Yea, it was messy but no water gets in nearly 30 years later. :)
Where am I going with this?
When I sided the house in 2001 (it was T-111) we added stone to the front of the house and the front of the garage. This was "fake" stone, made from concrete and painted to look like rocks. It looks great, still does after 15 years and doesn't require a footing.
It uses an expanded metal mesh, stapled to the sheathing, to support the "stone". The mesh holds up the stone, which isn't really that heavy, so no footing is needed.
This looks great on the house and may be an alternative for you.
Mark
 

BenDay1

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Mar 7, 2013
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Location
Florida
Stone veneer may be an option to consider. It's surface mounted and doesn't require a foundation.
 

buddyboy

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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
616
you can get away with no foundation as long as your drainage is installed properly and you dry stack the stone.

dry stack the stone so it is a wall a few inches away from the barn.

stack the stones so the pitch toward the center of the wall

pitch the cap stones away from the barn

you'll only need to go into the ground 6 inches or so.

with good drainage the ground will be dry and in the winter if you have no water in the ground it shouldn't expand and if/when it does your stone wall is not tied to the building anyway
 

ZRX61

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Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
How about:
Pour footer, build block wall, add veneer?

If that's the actual barn in the first pic, I'd also add an apron around it to keep the water away.
 
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