To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Brick wall without footing?

yimbo

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Brighton, Il
My shop is a standard pole building with a 24 x 32 garage and a 24 x 22 wood shop off the side. The floor is 4" concrete on top of a gravel base, i want to put a old brick ( no holes) wall between the garage and wood shop that would be 22' long by 10' high with a 6' opening in the center for a double door. Could this be done without a footing under the wall? Thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Chuckw

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
97
Location
AZ
You could do it but your floor may crack! I would weigh a brick, figure how many bricks I'm going to use, do the math, think of the floor load on the let's say 6" line of pressure that you just stacked on you floor , plus the weight of the mortar, doors headers............and then I would have a beer and think some more
 

Holedgr

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2006
Messages
358
NO!!

The brick wall to be 10' tall? The wall will have to be minimum 3 courses wide to stable or you could put a course of 4" hollow blocks and only have 2 courses on each side of block with alot of brick ties. 10' of masonry wall is scary and can kill without proper construction....

A footing or at least a grade beam for this....

-T
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Was the floor poured all at one time?
If it was done as 2 pours you may have some extra thickness at the edges of the pour.
Do you have any PICs of when it was done?
Maybe find the guys that did it and ask them?

I do agree that you cannot just stack one row of bricks up that high.
The wall will tip over on you.
 
OP
Y

yimbo

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Brighton, Il
Thanks guys, looks like bricks are out. Was just looking for something besides a framed wall to divide the garage from the woodshop, wanted a little atmosphere in the woodshop. I'm covering the walls in the woodshop with weathered 1" x 12" cedar but didn't have enough to cover this wall.
 

Holedgr

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2006
Messages
358
I had a thought......The problem is....with a freestanding masonry wall, it needs to be built so it can have strength laterally...hence the width and so on....

I was thinking about how a masonry facade sits on a foundation and is only brick tied to the framing...you could frame the wall....really focus on anchoring it to the floor and up into the trusses...sheath it with 5/8" plwood (no osb) and use alot of brick ties.

This leaves us with....a wall that can be a dual purpose...a lightweight masonry wall that has strength...and a happy homeowner...

-T
 

Sebringer

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
17
This is doable. Frame a 2x6 wall and opening. Use pressure treated against concrete or just use throughout. Assuming the wall is very secure up top, sheath both sides with at least 1/2" ply or OSB. Sheathing can also be elinated in this case if you use horizontal blocking, say every 32". You can then brick up one or both sides using brick ties to the frame. The distributive weight of the wall is no concern, it's not going anywhere. Use 4" angle iron over the door or opening and you should be good to go. With no roof or floor load on the wall from above, a slab can easily support the walls own distributed weight.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
Y

yimbo

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Brighton, Il
I like the idea of framming the wall and then brick, or using fake brick that looks better than the old "Z" Brick.
 

little d

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2009
Messages
815
Location
NW Oklahoma
the stuff they have now days..... man ya gotta realy look to see any diff. would give ya more options also.
 

little d

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2009
Messages
815
Location
NW Oklahoma
not brick but you get a idea of what you can do.
Picture021.jpg


here is rock against ceder.
Picture020.jpg


and a pic of it done.

Picture019.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom