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Briggs 10HP Engine Help

D45

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Two questions:

1) What is this hose with a bolt and clamp for?

Never seen something like this

2) Engine runs good at choke and strong at half choke, but when the lever is moved to run, the Engine will stall out and die
 

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Worsedog

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A couple of things come to mind.

It could be the crankcase impulse hose for a fuel pump. I have generator at work that has a pump with three hoses, one from the tank, one to the carb and the other goes to the crank, the pumping action of the piston creates some crankcase pressure that drives the pump.

Usually an engine that runs well on the choke but dies without it is running lean. If you are running it exactly as pictured, there is a huge vacuum leak between the carb and the intake if it's not bolted down with the air filter housing in place. If not then I'd look for clogs in the carb, although it "looks" pretty new.
 
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D45

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I thought that it might have been for the air filter breather..........

No fitting for it to connect two to the air filter assembly
 

mike93lx

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I bet that hose used to run into the back of the air box. If there isn't a connection for it, the air box probably isn't original
 
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D45

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I bet that hose used to run into the back of the air box. If there isn't a connection for it, the air box probably isn't original

The 3rd picture shows the hose that runs to and connects to the back of the filter box
 

PoorUB

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the hose is probably for a crankcase breather set up.
as mentioned it 's probably running lean , and yes, you are aware the carb is loose ?
Nope, it is definitely a pulse tube for a fuel pump. The breather is right behind the carb, a small rectangular cover. You can see part of it in the second pic. Also in the one pic there is a second tube that sticks out below the carb, that is the breather tube.

Some of those generators had a fuel pump even though the tank was above the carb. No clue why!

To the OP, do you have a parts breakdown? Or post the engine numbers and the generator model numbers and we can look up a parts breakdown.
 
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D45

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Box and tube hook up, still dies when trying to go more than half choke

Runs strong too
 

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D45

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Briggs 10HP
19G412

Generac 9719-2
SVP5000
 

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laser3kw

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I don't think the plugged off hose and the engine performance are connected.

It could be the crankcase impulse hose for a fuel pump. ....
Appears to be feasible. Part number 387 of the "controls, governor spring and fuel tank" in the parts manual is a fuel pump. The hose is listed as specific to a date code.
Briggs parts diag. for 19G412-1129-E1 (link)
quite possible it was "updated" by a previous owner - pump delete
The carb is new, or so I was told
Doesn't mean that it was "new" yesterday. The engine not running with choke full off is more than likely a plugged carb.
 
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laser3kw

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So should I take the carb bowl off an hose it all down or
I would disassemble the carb and clean all the fuel circuits. I highly suggest watching Youtube videos to get a good feel of what and how to take it apart and what to look for and how to clean it. I still watch videos, especially if it is a model I haven't encountered. While the carb is off, I would also flush a quart or so of gas through the tank and out the hose to make sure there is no junk in it. I have filtered the flush gas and used it (if it looks good)
 
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D45

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Tank is drained and flushed

New fuel filter also

I'll try cleaning the carb this
 

PoorUB

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I agree the carb is probably dirty, but I have to wonder why it had a fuel pump at one time and now the pump is gone. It should gravity feed gasoline just fine to the carb.
 

toyotadriver

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Any time you have a carb that will run with the choke halfway but not all the way open, you have a fuel issue within the carb….usually a small piece of grit is clogging one of the jets or passages. You likely need to remove all the Welch plugs, spray cleaner everywhere, blow it out, and install new Welch plugs.
 

kelpaso1

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Any time you have a carb that will run with the choke halfway but not all the way open, you have a fuel issue within the carb….usually a small piece of grit is clogging one of the jets or passages. You likely need to remove all the Welch plugs, spray cleaner everywhere, blow it out, and install new Welch plugs.
Never once had to do this. Take carb apart, put into ultrasonic cleaner for half hour, then blow dry and re-assemble. Besides, where would one go to get the plugs? There must be hundreds of different ones out there.
 

toyotadriver

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I had a carb on my Kohler engine on my riding zero turn that would not idle right. Clearly a clog in a passage. Cleaned it a couple times (the inside was spotless) and still wouldn’t run right. Finally popped off two Welch plugs, sprayed carb cleaner and then compressed air through everything, and reassembled with new Welch plugs. Been running great ever since.

Gravity flow fuel systems have crappy fuel filters out of necessity (no fuel pressure to force fuel through a good filter) so they don’t filter very well.

I measured the Welch plug openings and ordered replacements off the internet.
 

laser3kw

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Never once had to do this. Take carb apart, put into ultrasonic cleaner for half hour, then blow dry and re-assemble. Besides, where would one go to get the plugs? There must be hundreds of different ones out there.
I too rarely have to go this far. Usually, a good douching with carb cleaner or a dip in an ultrasonic does the trick. If you are not in a hurry, order the rebuild kit 497849 (After Code Date 94062300) or 497166 (Before Code Date 94062400) for that carb - it includes the welch plug.
For those of us that dabble in the black art of carb rebuilds, there are sources of welch plug assortment kits with a little of everything in them. Good to have on hand.
 
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PoorUB

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He might have to pull the welsh plugs, but odds are he will not. I ran a small engine shop for a few years and with float bowl carbs and 95% of the time there was some gas left in and gelled up the very bottom of the bowl, right where the main jet is. Good chance he can pull the bowl, blow out the main jet, might have to run a small wire through it, give a blast of carb cleaner and compressed air and it will run. I would try this first and then if it doesn't run dig in farther, considering he probably doesn't have a carb kit or welsh plugs handy.
 

TractorJeff

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He might have to pull the welsh plugs, but odds are he will not. I ran a small engine shop for a few years and with float bowl carbs and 95% of the time there was some gas left in and gelled up the very bottom of the bowl, right where the main jet is. Good chance he can pull the bowl, blow out the main jet, might have to run a small wire through it, give a blast of carb cleaner and compressed air and it will run. I would try this first and then if it doesn't run dig in farther, considering he probably doesn't have a carb kit or welsh plugs handy.
This is EXACTLY what I would do!
 

toyotadriver

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It's always worth doing a regular cleanout of the carb before dissembling it further and that often resolves the issue. However, not always. On rare occasions, you'll even find a carb that cannot be cleaned no matter what you do. If a regular cleaning can't fix it, then you need to remove everything you can and clean every passage. Welch plugs cover fuel passages in the carbs that can hide grit and crud. Not always but sometimes. Some people drive themselves crazy cleaning carbs over and over and eventually replace them....but they might have been able to fix the carb with a proper disassembly. Welch plugs are cheap and easy to remove and replace. Don't be scared to remove, clean, and replace them. Welch plugs aren't scary. Don't be scared of them.
 

Burl

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He might have to pull the welsh plugs, but odds are he will not. I ran a small engine shop for a few years and with float bowl carbs and 95% of the time there was some gas left in and gelled up the very bottom of the bowl, right where the main jet is. Good chance he can pull the bowl, blow out the main jet, might have to run a small wire through it, give a blast of carb cleaner and compressed air and it will run. I would try this first and then if it doesn't run dig in farther, considering he probably doesn't have a carb kit or welsh plugs handy.
If this doesn't work, get on Ebay and buy a $25 Chinese carb.
 

zeke67

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More than likely the emulsion tube / jet has a slug of **** in in it (part #142 in the manual attached to the link).
 

oldmxracer

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Again, I agree it sounds like a carb that just needs cleaned but if it was already replaced with a China carb ! That can be the problem, They all do not work great when You bolt them on ! You can chase Your tail with some of the aftermarket carbs !
 

toyotadriver

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The Chinese carbs are hit or miss. Some work perfectly. Some never work at all. Some are somewhere in between. Quality control is not good.

Always try to use an OE carb before buying a Chinese carb. And, only buy a Chinese carb if the OE replacement carb is extremely expensive. And, realize it's possible the Chinese carb will also not work and need to be replaced.
 

FredWanaker

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So if the original engine had a fuel pump it may be because under load the gravity feed is just not enough.
 
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D45

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I've bought a couple of Chinese $20 carbs from Amazon and never had issue with them working right

I am going to take the carb off and clean it and see what happens
 

manwithtools

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One thing to look for in generators is rusty fuel tanks. The rust can be a source of clogging up carburetors. I'd check the inside of fuel tank to be sure you aren't chasing a bigger problem.
 
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