Broke a D44 yoke while using Tiger Tool

[Ign]

Never had a failure like this. Was pressing out a u-joint from a '99 Dodge D44 front shaft assy and it cracked the yoke.

First, I am not saying the Tiger Tool was responsible. That said, I've never experienced a failure like this while using a BJ press. I've replaced a lot of u-joints over the years with a BJ press; I just recently got the Tiger Tools but have used them successfully on other vehicles in the few months I've had them.

Second, the yoke that broke was actually not the one the Tiger Tool was hooked onto but the opposite side.

Third, yes I did remove the c-clips.

Fourth, yes the cap was stuck/rusted in there pretty good. Still with a BJ press I've had caps explode before but never yokes split.

I will also mention there are places the Tiger Tool can't fit, like if you come up against a stupid damper like Ford used on my '88 Ranger (second pic). The 2.3T guys do away with these dampers but I don't care (and I don't have a turbo LOL).

The Tiger Tools are nice to have in your arsenal but they're not the end-all-be-all. Best bang for your buck honestly is a BJ press, however my complaint there is sometimes they want to bend the yoke ears together. Also harder to do D60 u-joints as you have to use an adapter cup for the bigger caps.

Anyway, let the arguing begin.

I'm not saying the Tiger Tool is good and I'm not saying it's bad. It's a tool. It's useful sometimes.

 

[Ign]

unrelated to u-joint tools.......

Anyway, I needed to replace the stub shaft with the broken ear. I happened to have some in my secret stash.

The replacement stub was threaded all the way to the end of the shaft. This is dumb because the threads can get boogered, and these threads were most definitely boogered. I figured I could force a nut on there w my 3/4" 2764, but I hate forcing fine threads together, and there was a risk of stripping the nut or not being able to remove the nut next time. (1-1/8"-18 incidentally)

The shaft that broke was not threaded all the way to the end; you only need threads AFTER the cotter pin hole LOL.

This is where it's nice to be a mekanik and a machinist. I booty'd together a way to kinda sorta friction turn the stub using a dead center in my 3-jaw. I successfully turned the threads outboard of the cotter pin hole and it went together like butter.

 

[454ragtop]

First want to say I have no idea what a Tiger Tool even is, never heard of it before. But I've always changed U-joints with a large hammer and large punch. The shock seems to really help here in the rust belt, done hundreds and hundreds of them this way.

 

[isr2kba]

I tried to change the u-joint on the rear of my 2004 Suburban. I couldn't get it off the shaft end with BJP1 -- a procedure I had done on many other occasions with other vehicles. I had enough pressure on it where I felt any more would blow it up.

I gave up and brought the whole shaft to my local drive shaft shop. He told me Chevy used a bonding agent to help hold them on in certain applications. . He warmed it up it up and then it popped off no problem.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I've had that happen with a ball joint press a few times

 

[trackwelder]

It's real rare in this rust hole region to do u joints on a vehicle without the use of a torch. I've had jobs where the hardest part of the job is getting out the rusted to hell clips. I got a BJP1 this year and it's awesome for doing u joints.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I've torched the joint in half lately

 

[Richard Cranium]

Isr2, I had the same problem with a u-joint, I took it to a shop that specialize in drive shafts, He put it in his big press and it popped right out. Wasn't bad, I think it was 30.00 including the u-joint.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Were you using an impact on the Tiger tool?

Reason I ask is I've owned a 98 Ram 1500 4x4 since new. Ive used the hammer method, the vise method, and I even own a hydraulic press. But I bought the Tiger Tool 2 years ago when I needed to replace the same axle shaft Ujoints you show above.

Love it. Wont use any other method unless forced to. Out of the 8 caps I had to press out, one of them was being VERY stubborn. It was also on an outer stub shaft. Since I was using my 1/2" ratchet instead of an air tool, I was able to feel the resistance being higher than the previous bearing caps--signifying something was wrong. That cap was particularly rusted in, so with a swift application of the ball peen technique to the circumference of the cap ear, it departed with a pop. No damage at all.

I never use air tools to tighten anything. But I don't work against the clock either. Tiger does say you can use air tools with their tool. But I prefer the "feel" of my hands to the brute force of the air gun. And it seems that may have saved me a stub shaft. I believe the Tiger Tool is the Dana approved tool for the job.

 

[Murphy4570]

Good use of the lathe. I guess you didn't want to bother setting the gearbox to the right thread feed and using a threading tool to chase the threads?

 

[Ign]

Were you using an impact on the Tiger tool?

Reason I ask is I've owned a 98 Ram 1500 4x4 since new. Ive used the hammer method, the vise method, and I even own a hydraulic press. But I bought the Tiger Tool 2 years ago when I needed to replace the same axle shaft Ujoints you show above.

Love it. Wont use any other method unless forced to. Out of the 8 caps I had to press out, one of them was being VERY stubborn. It was also on an outer stub shaft. Since I was using my 1/2" ratchet instead of an air tool, I was able to feel the resistance being higher than the previous bearing caps--signifying something was wrong. That cap was particularly rusted in, so with a swift application of the ball peen technique to the circumference of the cap ear, it departed with a pop. No damage at all.

I never use air tools to tighten anything. But I don't work against the clock either. Tiger does say you can use air tools with their tool. But I prefer the "feel" of my hands to the brute force of the air gun. And it seems that may have saved me a stub shaft. I believe the Tiger Tool is the Dana approved tool for the job.

I used a cordless 2754. I always load it up some, tap everything everywhere with a ball pein (you never know exactly where the vibration might help relieve some pre-load) and repeat until it's clearly not fighting me.

I have no desire to use a ratchet, then you're just fighting leverage so you have to apply counter-leverage somewhere. An impact allows it spin from a single, concentric point and you're not having to counteract anything. But yes, you have less feel.

I always reinstall everything with a ball pein, it's way faster than trying to position any sort of pressing tool (except a properly set up arbor press).

Good use of the lathe. I guess you didn't want to bother setting the gearbox to the right thread feed and using a threading tool to chase the threads?

No point. The threads are still susceptible to damage being outboard like that. Just increases the odds of future headaches. I did, however, hop on ebay just after this job and order 1-1/8"-18 hex re-threading die and a tap. I had 1-1/16", 1-3/8" and 1-1/2" in various thread pitches but no 1-1/8"

 

[bubinga]

I tried to change the u-joint on the rear of my 2004 Suburban. I couldn't get it off the shaft end with BJP1 -- a procedure I had done on many other occasions with other vehicles. I had enough pressure on it where I felt any more would blow it up.

I gave up and brought the whole shaft to my local drive shaft shop. He told me Chevy used a bonding agent to help hold them on in certain applications. . He warmed it up it up and then it popped off no problem.

Yeah, you heat the caps up, and when the plastic is done "shitting out" of the hole there, you're good to press it out.

 

[MikeF2316]

First want to say I have no idea what a Tiger Tool even is, never heard of it before. But I've always changed U-joints with a large hammer and large punch. The shock seems to really help here in the rust belt, done hundreds and hundreds of them this way.

+1 on the Tiger Tool, at least until 5 minutes ago. I've always used a selection of sockets and a vise to change ujoints. It helps to have a second set of hands to hold up the driveshaft when you're using this method. Just a few hammer taps to set the caps against the clips at the end.

 

[Ign]

Got my 1-1/8"-18 hex die! Had to try it out on another spare shaft I have.

But here's the most surprising part - finally found a reason to use my $15 Proto (Kastar) 2" ratcheting wrench LOL

 

[ex-x-fire]

The nice thing about the tiger tool is that it pushes one cap out at a time, the bj press has to press both caps to work.

 

[xj31]

Ihave never used that Tiger tool but I have heard good things. I have changed a few u-joints in my lifetime (30 years working at a Jeep dealer) and the easiest way I have found is the old hammer and vise method. I haven't broken anything yet

 

[mbshop]

In my whole career I think I replaced 2 u joints. After that I had pro shops do it including balancing. I never understood the construction of them. I also can see how one could break. Surprised more have not been broken.