Broke my Floor!

[like2wheel]

Well maybe more like chipped it. Not sure if I dropped something from attic, or ran over something in the manlift while doing the ceiling.

The piece wiggles, but I haven’t pulled it out yet. The floor is 1 year old, 5” of 4000lb smooth trowled, densified and sealed with ghostshield.

What’s the proper repair procedure? Pull it out & epoxy it back in place? Maybe fill the control cut there to support it?

I noticed it a couple months ago, but covered it up with my OSB while doing the walls. Maybe hoping it would heal itself.

 

[Evilcactuar]

I'm in process of filling saw cuts with the legacy extreme set product, I would pull the piece out and fill the with that, and fill the rest of the joint so it doesn't happen again. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than myself will chime in, but that's what I would do with it.

 

[Garage Flooring]

We have an epoxy mix designed for filling larger holes. Is it just cracked around it or does it easily pull out

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I'm in process of filling saw cuts with the legacy extreme set product, I would pull the piece out and fill the with that, and fill the rest of the joint so it doesn't happen again. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than myself will chime in, but that's what I would do with it.

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[like2wheel]

We have an epoxy mix designed for filling larger holes. Is it just cracked around it or does it easily pull out

So far I just wiggled it a little, but it felt like it would pull out.
I believe the cut is about 1 1/4", but I'm not sure how deep the chip is.

It's in a pretty noticable spot, so I'd like to secure it back in place as best as possible.

 

[captain14]

Take a look at Mike Haduck YouTube video on patching small pieces like that. He has several but I posted a link to his latest one.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I like Sika Pro Select, Crack Fix. It's a thin two part epoxy in a caulk gun like tube. I'd run a good bit of it down the crack, then use a clothes pin, or tapered wooden shim in the saw cut to wedge the chunk back in place.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikadur-6-fl-oz-Structural-Epoxy-Crack-Fix-107655/204732364

 

[PugetDude]

^^this. Kay nailed it^^

Done properly it will hardly be noticeable.
I would blow out and vacuum the hole thoroughly after you get the chunk out, you don't want any loose pieces preventing it from seating completely. To ensure it does, you might want to knock the high spots off the chunk before dropping it back in the hole to allow a little room for the epoxy. A masonry or diamond wheel in your 4.5" angle grinder would do it in a few seconds.

 

[SolarColumbia]

I'd fill the crack with Extremeset 100 and sand for filler. It will show but I doubt it would come out again.

 

[Garage Flooring]

So far I just wiggled it a little, but it felt like it would pull out.
I believe the cut is about 1 1/4", but I'm not sure how deep the chip is.

It's in a pretty noticable spot, so I'd like to secure it back in place as best as possible.

The suggestions made would work. If you are going to coat the whole floor I would be a little more aggressive.

 

[Evilcactuar]

I still think you should fill the saw cuts so it doesn't happen again, regardless of which way you address it

 

[brainypencil]

I still think you should fill the saw cuts so it doesn't happen again, regardless of which way you address it

yeah, I agree with you. Your idea is as good as mine.

 

[like2wheel]

Thanks to all that replied.

I agree that filling the saw cuts would be the best prevention, but I feel like anything in a caulking tube would be too resilient to actually offer any real support. And the epoxy/sand product seems like the strongest method, but looks extremely messy and hard to control unless there is a better, more controlled way to apply it than the YouTube video showed. Seems like after that the floor has to be ground to get the excess off the surface of the floor. I already sealed my floor and don’t want to have to grind it.

Meanwhile, to fix my chip, I think Kay’s suggestion looks like the best product so far.





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[PugetDude]

You know we’re going to need pictures....

 

[Armorpoxy]

We carry a Crack Repair Epoxy Putty that is about 2x stronger than concrete. It would fix that.

 

[benwah]

Standards would require you open that crack up with a 1/8" wide diamond embedded masonry wheel for a 4.5" grinder, before filling. If the chunk pops out because of that, you'd be required to repair the area with an epoxy repair mortar. It is important to use an aggregate reinforced mortar rather than just a thickened joint-filling type of epoxy. Prime it then apply the epoxy repair mortar wet on wet if necessary.

You can always use a 3" plastic putty knife to strike your joint fills flush. Being that the floor is already primed, you may leave some high spots.. you can easily remove those with an orbital sander, if you're not able to get them 100% removed with a rag or your putty knife.