Broke my miter saw cutting masonry

[reader2580]

I used my Ridgid miter saw yesterday to cut three or four cement retaining wall block with a masonry abrasive blade. I ended up breaking the handle from the pressure required to keep the abrasive blade cutting.

I was using compressed air to try to keep the dust out of the motor. I went to push the blade assembly down to lock the saw to put it away and the blade wouldn't move. I finally got it to move, but not smoothly at all. I think the concrete dust got into the hinge.

Is there any hope for this saw, or did I make a $200+ mistake? I can get a new handle for under $30, but I don't know if I just lubricate the hinge area to get it moving again. There is a giant pin holding the hinge together, but there is also a powerful spring in there.

 

[dnschmidt]

You made a $200 mistake.

 

[maxpower_hd]

Agreed. I think you may have eaten a saw. For future reference my buddy uses a worm drive circular saw with an abrasive blade and he runs water on the surface of the cut. He is a mason but does mostly pool tile. He has a large wet saw for big jobs but the worm drive easily does the trick for just a few cuts.

 

[Git]

A good cleaning wouldn't hurt before you spend any money. Then you can see what you got

In the future, a decent masonry blade on a hand held grinder works really well

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Sounds like you just need to clean it... also with a diamond blade, you don't need that much pressure (certainly not to break the handle). At least that's been my experience cutting chimney tiles, few bricks, etc...

 

[JRC3]

In the future, a decent masonry blade on a hand held grinder works really well

Yep, I use a 4 1/2" wet/dry cut blade to undercut fireplace aprons when installing hardwood. Cuts like butter. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=masonary+blade

I'm going to do a retaining wall later this or next year. I think I'll pick up a 7" for that.

I see they have a 14" but I would never mount that on my miter saw.





OP, contact Ridgid or HD and see if they'll do anything. Then go to HF and buy a cheap angle grinder and dry cut diamond blade to finish the job.

 

[reader2580]

The saw still runs just fine. It just doesn't go up and down hardly at all now. I was using an abrasive blade, not a diamond blade. My grinder has been lost for a year plus, or I would have used that with a diamond blade.

 

[Roberts210]

Take the hinge apart and clean it before you lube it. Otherwise you'll just create an abrasive slurry.

 

[jakemac]

Take the assembly apart and thoroughly clean it before lubing. Otherwise you'll just be trapping abrasive grit in the moving parts. Use a dry lube, a wet lube will create a gritty paste if you use the saw this way again.

Edit - Robert beat me to it.

 

[reader2580]

I am afraid if I take the hinge pin out that I would never get it back together again. There is a pretty powerful spring in there that I am afraid I could never get back in.

I should look to see if there is a video or something on how to disassemble the hinge on a Ridgid miter saw. I don't ever plan on cutting masonry with it again. I'll rent something or use a grinder next time.

 

[JRC3]

I'd probably douche it out with a garden hose and the blow out the water with air and repeat. Then douche it with silicone spray and wipe the excess.

 

[jakemac]

I replaced a broken arm on a Porter Cable sliding miter once. I got surprised by that spring. Be careful. It was about 10yrs ago. I don't remember how I got it back in on the new arm, but I remember that it took some time and I had to get "creative".

If you need to use the saw on masonry again, try wrapping the hinge with shrink wrap to keep the stone dust out.

 

[bcradio]

A good cleaning wouldn't hurt before you spend any money. Then you can see what you got

In the future, a decent masonry blade on a hand held grinder works really well

That image looks scary dangerous

 

[Git]

That image looks scary dangerous

Anytime you take the 'guard' off a tool, your playing with fire.

Just need to use common sense and the proper safety equipment

If you want to cut a nice straight line in 1" stucco for a through-the-wall AC, this is the way to go. Bolt a template to the wall and have at it. (unfortunately the AC didn't cut it and was later replaced with a mini split)

 

[MarkWilliams60]

Find a service center and take it in. Those guys can strip it all down, replace what's needed, and stick it back together. It won't cost much and if they're cool, may surprise you.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I'd try blasting it with compressed air before adding any type of grease or liquid.

 

[engineer2]

You can get chop saws pretty cheap. They do take a long time, make a lot of dust, and you use up a lot of blades. They work well if you need a precise cut.

For many cuts I found it was faster to use my 4" side grinder with a diamond blade.
Make a 1/4 inch deep cut all the way around.
Whack the cut with a hammer and chisel to split the block.
Use the diamond wheel the smooth the surface as needed.

 

[G_P]

Lots of compressed air and some solvent to remove the grit trapped in any factory applied lube should do it.

 

[Zeke]

Do not move the arm any more. You are grinding the mated surfaces. Forget the hose, forget the air, Take it apart, clean and lube and don't look back.

There's a video on YT on how to replace the pivot spring on a DeWalt. Might be pretty close to the same procedure as yours. He didn't seem to have any trouble with the spring tension.

Since this is on a vendor site, I won't link it.

 

[atomicpunk]

Horrible Freight is good to buy tools for the work that your doing with the masonry dust. I bought an $18 grinder and masonry cutting blades to do a garden wall and used it to do pavers also, just blew the dust out when done and it still works. Wasn't going to use one of my Metabo grinders for those jobs.

 

[reader2580]

I finally took the saw apart today. It was really easy to get apart and back together.

I really didn't see much in the way of masonry dust in the hinge. I did find a lot of scratches and gouges in the mating surfaces of the hinge. I ran a flat file across to smooth things out and put it back together. It still doesn't work like it should. It is hard to push the blade assembly down and the spring won't lift it.

Should I lubricate the hinge when I take apart again? I will probably run some really fine sandpaper with a flat sanding block over the surfaces this time.

 

[Bighead38]

Pics might help.

I've seen and worked with Mason's that used Miter saws all day without problems.

 

[reader2580]

I'll have to take some pictures the next time I take it apart. I am leaving tomorrow for a week so it will be a while.