Broke truss when installing

[Kaizen]

I was lifting one of my 32 foot trusses and did not secure it. The truss fell snapping off one end just outside of the truss metal plates. They are two foot in center. Called manufacturer to see if I could just sister some 2x6 over the 2x4s that were broken and it's going to cost more then the truss itself to get an engineer sign off. So I turn to you. Anybody have a break like this and fix it? Should I pry off the plates and put in new wood and hammer back on plates? I'm sure sistering would be more then strong enough. Concern is with inspector. Don't want to wait three weeks for a new truss. Break is at arrows
.




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[LXCam]

I'd pry the plates off and replace that stick. Your options don't seem all that viable for something this simple to repair.

 

[bczygan]

I was lifting one of my 32 foot trusses and did not secure it. The truss fell snapping off one end just outside of the truss metal plates. They are two foot in center. Called manufacturer to see if I could just sister some 2x6 over the 2x4s that were broken and it's going to cost more then the truss itself to get an engineer sign off. So I turn to you. Anybody have a break like this and fix it? Should I pry off the plates and put in new wood and hammer back on plates? I'm sure sistering would be more then strong enough. Concern is with inspector. Don't want to wait three weeks for a new truss. Break is at arrows
.



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Then you must be an engineer and you have run the numbers and considered all the variables. So just draw it up and seal it yourself...

Or, if not, then do it properly or hide it somehow until after inspection and sister afterward.

Your choice. I'm not advocating anything.

Bill

 

[cvairwerks]

The gang nail plates are installed with a hydraulic roller system. You can't yank them off and reinstall as they are one time use. Sister in the repairs, order a new truss and replace it when the new one comes in. Install the damaged one in the easiest to change location.

 

[n20junkie]

Order another one. It happens semi-often.

Why start off a new build on a bad foot.

The truss, sistered, nail plate bashed in with a hammer or whatever "fix" you attempt still renders it a non-certified truss.

 

[ryan77]

put it in a place where is least noticed, glue it to pass inspection, then sister it afterwards. bad advise but would probably work if on a budget.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Did I miss something about the break? You can buy new plates at the big box store or local building supply house. Get some new plates and get a new 2x4 or whatever it is and replace it. Not sure why your making to big of a deal out of it? These things are cheaply made. They have all there strength from the triangles they utilize. Just replace what came out?

 

[MoonRise]

Short answer : Replace the truss.

Longer answer : Replace the truss. Without the PE stamp and all the calculations that go with it, a truss 'repair' is not allowed. The truss company has already told you that for them to do an analysis on how to repair your broken truss will cost more than just replacing the entire truss.

So, replace the truss.

Besides, you said the truss fell and the fall (actually that sudden stop after the fall ) broke the truss. So, what else was damaged or broken on that truss that you didn't notice yet?

Replace the truss.

 

[sberry]

Fix it back to look oem.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Your description of the break is not clear to me. Are both the top and bottom chords broken at the point shown or is it just a break in web 'W1'?

If the break is repairable, the truss manufacturer should be able to repair it onsite, if it's not repairable in their eyes, just bite the bullet and buy the replacement.
I've had trusses damaged when delivered and the manufacturer sent men out to the jobsite to repair. I know here in San Diego, there is no way an inspector would accept a homeowner repaired truss.

Good luck!

 

[GMCGarage]

Can you take some pictures for us to look at?

 

[Kaizen]

Your description of the break is not clear to me. Are both the top and bottom chords broken at the point shown or is it just a break in web 'W1'?

If the break is repairable, the truss manufacturer should be able to repair it onsite, if it's not repairable in their eyes, just bite the bullet and buy the replacement.
I've had trusses damaged when delivered and the manufacturer sent men out to the jobsite to repair. I know here in San Diego, there is no way an inspector would accept a homeowner repaired truss.

Good luck!

Thanks toolfool. w1 and the nail brackets at its' end are fine. the top chord and bottom chord snapped just next to it where the arrows are. complete broken off.
if i'm going to do anything with the manufacturer its going to get a new one which is considerably cheaper then any other option.


Thanks to all the other replies. I know trusses are engineered for xy and z. but they are made of 2 simple things. replacing two pieces of 2x4 and new nail plates seems the easiest. just dumb that the manufacturer can't just type in some numbers and tell me. not like they have frank loyd wrights protégé over there with an angle finder and calculator.
I am not looking for permission to do this but more was hoping someone had this break and could tell me how the manufacturer said to fix it.

 

[Kaizen]

Can you take some pictures for us to look at?

i'll try later. its under a couple feet of snow at the moment.

 

[Dr Stan]

I'm with the majority, replace the truss. Its virtually guaranteed to fail inspection and when the inspector sees this he will be thinking "what else is this guy trying to get by with". You'll be picked apart with every little mistake becoming a major issue.

 

[readhead]

Gang nails (nail plates) are not a field install item. The material is a special grade to the truss making process. You don't just pick it up at the lumber yard. Truss's get broken all the time. Most can be field repaired by the truss company using glue, plywood and nails. With a clean break like this most of the time I see a complete replacement.

 

[Mickey O]

Couple nails and a little duct tape and you'll be back in business.

 

[soapii]

I would remove the broken boards all the way back to the next joint and press back on new truss/mending plates. It will be good as new.

--Joe

 

[forAK]

the top chord and bottom chord snapped just next to it where the arrows are. complete broken off.

No way to repair that and still have integrity per the engineers. Looks like a delay in the roofing process. That *****.

 

[GMCGarage]

I have had them sandwich a truss with plywood before to repair. Increases the stiffness of the truss, so you would not want it in the middle of the building. Seems like overkill too, but it could save you 3 weeks.

 

[Kaizen]

Couple nails and a little duct tape and you'll be back in business.

lol zip ties too right? wouldn't want to half azz it

 

[matt_i]

I had 2 broken trusses is my stack which was delivered which I found upon stacking them neatly up.

I called the lumber yard representing the trussco with pictures as I felt like it wasn't something I did wrong.

They asked if they supplied and delivered materials if I would fix them for $20/hr? To which i replied OK.

They sent, in email, 2 hand drawn markups on the original CAD drawing, just like yours, it was P.E. stamped and resides with my book that the inspectors threaten to want to see but never did.

In my case, one was fixed by a 2x10 on the 2x4 bottom chord. The other was a 2x6 sistered one side of the break, which was a "greenstick fracture" snap right below the joining plate. It required 2 staggered nail patterns 3" o.c. that they wanted driven thru and clinched over. Total of around 70 nails per side as I recall. I ended up nailing from both sides, same pattern, ring shanks instead of the bright finish and not clinching so you can chastise me for that

I will troll the archives for some pictures...


Break #1


Break #2


For break #2 they supplied an 8ft 2x10 as a scab. And I construction-adhesived the splinter back into place with a few brads just so it wouldn't have a big hole, realizing its not structural. I changed this to a 12ft 2x10 which I supplied because I needed a nailer for the edge of the attic floor anyway...all others are 2x10 bottom chord..

In the fine print of the contract with the trussco, it said claims have to be made by ** days after the sale otherwise its buyers responsibility. I would look for that, if they supplied free engineering, you would need a couple sticks of lumber and some nails which you probably already have, and you are rock solid forever with the inspector.

 

[Kaizen]

I'm with the majority, replace the truss. Its virtually guaranteed to fail inspection and when the inspector sees this he will be thinking "what else is this guy trying to get by with". You'll be picked apart with every little mistake becoming a major issue.

and this is the tipping point. i'll be ordering a new one. while I was originally more worried about structure, if I can't get a sign off from the inspector and have to replace a truss after the roof is on.......not something I wish to do.

Thanks everyone. while it can be done its not worth the risk for 150 bucks. I have plenty of work to do on the eaves and ladders while I wait.

man I love this site

 

[Tejay]

Call the truss company and get a repair design stamped, move on. No sense speculating what might work. Everybody can sleep at night and no issues with inspections.

 

[Kaizen]

I had 2 broken trusses is my stack which was delivered which I found upon stacking them neatly up.

I called the lumber yard representing the trussco with pictures as I felt like it wasn't something I did wrong.

They asked if they supplied and delivered materials if I would fix them for $20/hr? To which i replied OK.

They sent, in email, 2 hand drawn markups on the original CAD drawing, just like yours, it was P.E. stamped and resides with my book that the inspectors threaten to want to see but never did.

In my case, one was fixed by a 2x10 on the 2x4 bottom chord. The other was a 2x6 sistered one side of the break, which was a "greenstick fracture" snap right below the joining plate. It required 2 staggered nail patterns 3" o.c. that they wanted driven thru and clinched over. Total of around 70 nails per side as I recall. I ended up nailing from both sides, same pattern, ring shanks instead of the bright finish and not clinching so you can chastise me for that

I will troll the archives for some pictures...

Thanks matt. not necessary. for me to get that pe stamped paper is over 200 and another new one is 150ish. just ***** as I know I can easily repair this like you did.

 

[sberry]

Wtf, cant fix a broken board without paperwork? If you didnt tell them no one would know.

 

[MoonRise]

Thanks matt. not necessary. for me to get that pe stamped paper is over 200 and another new one is 150ish. just ***** as I know I can easily repair this like you did.

Did you happen to pay for the trusses with a credit card? And if so, does said credit card happen to have a 'buyer protection' deal, covering lost or stolen or damaged items?

If so, maybe call your CC company and say you dropped and broke a truss. And need it replaced.

 

[Radix2]

The truss company really wants to charge you ? Around here you tell them what broke (usually when they dump them in the dirt of the roll-off truck) and they give you a drawing with some 2x scabbed on. No charge.

An when the framers do'nt get them perfectly lined up and the sheeting starts to miss, you end up with 2x nailed to the sides to pick the sheathing back up. hard to tell after the fact.

 

[rburke65]

Have you .... the OP .....ever attempted to remove and replace a metal splice plate on a truss? Trust me....almost impossible. Spend the $150. The 3 weeks will go by quickly and I'm sure there are other things you can be doing toward the finishing of the build.

 

[XRlifer]

My trusses we're dropped off at my home (in the wrong location) when I was at work. I inspected all 8 and found 6 missing plates. After a phone call to the truss manufacturer they showed up the next day with a plate compressor (I didn't know there was such a thing) and installed the plates. The plates CAN be installed on site....the repair is another thing. Like most have said, i'd just replace the entire truss and be done with it.

 

[Kaizen]

Have you .... the OP .....ever attempted to remove and replace a metal splice plate on a truss? Trust me....almost impossible. Spend the $150. The 3 weeks will go by quickly and I'm sure there are other things you can be doing toward the finishing of the build.

Yes I said earlier that is what I'm going to do unless they upcharge me to deliver one truss. Then I will pay for the drawings to repair if cheaper


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[Chris705]

Sounds like maybe my suggestion is too late .....but could you move to this broken truss to the end wall and install vertical webs at 16" oc to receive gable end sheathing? Loads at gable end in both stick frame & post frame buildings are all vertical loads (because they sit on a wall or post-to-post headers). Typically I am used to seeing gable end trusses which are all vertical members (16 or 24" oc) supporting the top cords. These allow simple and easy attachment of gable sheathing.

 

[jhelrey]

Buy new plates, and install a new board. Use a bottle jack with something very heavy over it and pump away to compress the plates into the wood.

 

[rburke65]

Yes....you said that it was your plan. I asked IF YOU have ever pulled and replaced a splice plate.

 

[Kaizen]

Yes....you said that it was your plan. I asked IF YOU have ever pulled and replaced a splice plate.

Hell no this is my first rodeo


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[Kaizen]

Sounds like maybe my suggestion is too late .....but could you move to this broken truss to the end wall and install vertical webs at 16" oc to receive gable end sheathing? Loads at gable end in both stick frame & post frame buildings are all vertical loads (because they sit on a wall or post-to-post headers). Typically I am used to seeing gable end trusses which are all vertical members (16 or 24" oc) supporting the top cords. These allow simple and easy attachment of gable sheathing.

But then I would have to make the web from the end truss. I couldn't use it as is


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[padroo]

I had a 32 foot truss break at the splice in the middle of the bottom chord when I was flipping it. The splice plates held but the wood gave way. I scabbed a two foot two by four on each side and installed it again. That was 34 years ago, the garage is still standing. I never even thought about the inspector, I got my approval when I wasn't home and the new garage was locked up. My county is still kind of loose.lol

Here where I live we don't sister, we scab. Sounds preverted to me. Lol

 

[Roberts210]

I've built my own trusses several times. Last time for this house, from #1 grade (mostly clear) yellow pine and 1/2" plywood gusset plates glued with structural glue and nailed in place. In Matt i's photos above it looks like ordinary "white wood" in the trusses. Look at the way the wood snapped in two in the second picture. That's just not very strong wood for a truss.

 

[awdblazer]

truss plates are easy to remove and to reinstall without the compactor
use to work for a local truss building outfit
had to fix trusses all the time because of f*cktard employees

 

[johninct]

You have no choice but to replace the truss. I had a bad weld on a truss that was undetected, fast forward 20 years with a heavy snow load, I lost my entire shop. Also, how can you properly replace a truss with the roof installed?

 

[Ironcrow]

Wtf, cant fix a broken board without paperwork? If you didnt tell them no one would know.

Yes, this^^^^^. Did anyone else read the spec to discover the maximum tension in this piece of lumber is 540 lbs (a relatively low result, there are other pieces with thousands of pounds tension)? Simpson makes nail plates for this purpose. New wood, plates, ring shanks, through and bend them over. If you know which end of the hammer to hold, you can make this hold 500 lbs.