Broken Beam

[John.Noble]

Hello,
My detached 2 car garage beam broke. Previous owners tried to fix. Beam just re-broke in different area. The original beam = 20’ long (two 2X10). The past owners added two 2X12s but only 12’ long. See pics. What is the most cost effective way to repair? I added vertical support posts until permanent repairs can be made. Thank you!

 

[jaysberman]

Looks like a laminated beam is needed.

 

[gte718p]

The proper and probably also the most cost effective repair is to figure out the proper size for the beam, temp brace the ceiling, and replace the beam with one of the proper size. The original repair would have been fine if it spanned the entire span. However all it did was move the stress point and concentrate it.

It is not a particularly difficult or expensive repair. You could bandaid it a gain, but you risk the garage collapsing.
I'm pretty sure your garage door springs are not helping anything there.

 

[thewatusi]

If it were me I'd remove the 2x12 repair and sister (2) 2x10 on each side. You'd end up with a 6 piece 2x10 beam. Probably overkill, but better than the original which was obviously not enough.

Make sure you stagger joints at least 4' and your new wood should not have a joint within 4' of the cracks. Nail the piss out of it with 12p framing nails and when it's done thru bolt it as well for good measure.

 

[readhead]

Two 2x10 were way overspan when they were new. A new beam will be required.

For all the people who say this stuff never happens this is an excellent example of it can happen.

 

[Apex Structures]

If it were me I'd remove the 2x12 repair and sister (2) 2x10 on each side. You'd end up with a 6 piece 2x10 beam. Probably overkill, but better than the original which was obviously not enough.

Make sure you stagger joints at least 4' and your new wood should not have a joint within 4' of the cracks. Nail the piss out of it with 12p framing nails and when it's done thru bolt it as well for good measure.

If this were my garage, I would consult an certified engineer ($350 in my area) and have them give me a sealed design.... better safe then sorry when your parking your toys in there that may not be covered by your insurance.
If you don't know the ground snow load and and the actual distance of the span, you are just throwing darts. Did any other cracking happen as a result of this damage ? Also - over-nailing can weaken the lumber. There are certain nailing patterns that are needed for those type of connections when we are submitting header designs, etc. Lots of engineer's also will design what is considered as overkill out of precaution.

 

[ford33]

Experts will provides more information here but I will suggest that your roof is not built correctly.

From your pictures it appears that you have a reverse gable roof style garage. What I also see is the joists running the length of the garage and the single support beam is the only structural member holding the garage front and rear sides together. This single beam is split and is pulling apart due to it being under tension not compression. You do not show pictures of the structure above the joists so I may be wrong.

Perhaps adding a steel beam is necessary to keep the front and rear walls from pulling apart and also to support the weight of all those long joists running lengthwise in the structure. The snow on the roof is just adding to the stress on that beam.

I am not an expert and offer this as a possibility. Take a look at garage construction pictures for this reverse gable style garage and you will see the joists are installed front to back and not lengthwise.

Good luck.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If it were me I'd remove the 2x12 repair and sister (2) 2x10 on each side. You'd end up with a 6 piece 2x10 beam. Probably overkill, but better than the original which was obviously not enough.

Make sure you stagger joints at least 4' and your new wood should not have a joint within 4' of the cracks. Nail the piss out of it with 12p framing nails and when it's done thru bolt it as well for good measure.

I wouldn't count the 2 broken 2X10s as anything but additional load.
I'd replacing them (laminated beam, multiple 2x10s, 2x12s, or a steel beam) depending on load. (what is on the floor above?) and difficulty. I'd also consider a center post to reduce the span.

 

[RobSmith]

I agree with ford33 ...find out 1st whats causing the beam to break !

 

[Phixer]

Two 2x10 were way overspan when they were new. A new beam will be required.

For all the people who say this stuff never happens this is an excellent example of it can happen.

With that stupid knot in the board, it was effectively a 2x4 !
Some lumber gets used in construction when it's really meant to be firewood.

 

[James-W]

I am a little confused. I am not sure why that beam is even there. How wide is the garage? Is there a storage area up on top? If the beam is there to hold up the roof, then maybe putting in two laminated beams spaced several feet apart would be a better idea. I am still not sure what is going on with the garage framing.

 

[James-W]

Some lumber gets used in construction when it's really meant to be firewood.

There is a lot of truth to that.

 

[dodgejunkie]

What part of the country?

I assume it's the snow load causing the beam to snap!

 

[bgarrett]

ford33 got it right

 

[Trey T]

I think it's typical to have knotted pines fail like that. Knotty pines are just weak at the knots in general.

My detach garage beam failed like that and the previous homeowner had it sistered. Instead of removing it, I added another beam, same span. I bought the beams from HD and bought three more beams than I need and returned it with 30% restocking fees.

 

[C96]

I too tend to go along with ford33 theory on this, odd way to construct this garage.

Might there have also been at some point an excessive amount of weight up in the loft? I mean really, 20’ span for (2) 2x10 basically carrying the entire load of the floor above, not to mention the huge knot in the one. Hell, its no wonder the damn thing broke.

Also, sure seems like a lot of nails protruding down through the floorboards? Is there another flooring material attached to the top side?

And what is all the staining on the floor boards and joists in this picture? Almost looks like oil, was the previous owner storing engine blocks and or heavy machinery up there?

 

[Stuart in MN]

Experts will provides more information here but I will suggest that your roof is not built correctly.

From your pictures it appears that you have a reverse gable roof style garage. What I also see is the joists running the length of the garage and the single support beam is the only structural member holding the garage front and rear sides together. This single beam is split and is pulling apart due to it being under tension not compression.

Looks to me like it actually has a shed roof, and those crossways joists are directly under the roof deck. I suspect the main beam cracked from heavy snow loads.

In any case, the thing to do is most likely replace the main beam altogether with a new beam, sized correctly, running all the way from front to back walls.

 

[David C]

I hate to get involved in these things because somebodys opinion often gets pinched and then there is acrimony. The OP, though, should be able to get a reasonable response.

I think what Ford is saying is:

1. That the roof framing spans front to back and it appears the attic framing spans in the opposite direction.

2. That in small garage structures like this one the ceiling joists are tied to the rafters creating a truss. (Unless there is more structure above the ceiling). This important structural element, (roof truss) seems to be missing.

3. That when roof framing does not have an adequate ridge beam, or collar tie (bot chord), the roof weight often causes the roof to sag and the walls to push out.

It is unlikely that the beam is failing due to tension as suggested, but it is really hard to tell much from the photos either. Remember that for a beam in simple bending the top of the beam is in compression, and the bottom of the beam is in tension. This may be part of the reason the failed beam looks to be pulling apart at the knot.

In order to design a creditable repair the designer would need to determine the exact load on the beam. The roof framing would need to be evaluated as well as other portions of the overhead structure. If it were me I would recommend, well insist, that if other parts of the roof framing, that do not comply with current codes, be repaired at the same time.

This garage appears to have other issues. It looks like the roof may have leaked sometime in the past and it appears that there may be mold growing on some wood in the back of the building.

 

[bmxdad]

Should the beam go all the way to the front? Looks like it might be missing a post?.


The beam is running back to front, but has no support on the front ... right?


NM ... I see that is a crippled beam, to make a repair. Looks like a big span ... missing post I bet.

 

[Jakkle5]

Jack it back to level and temp support it. Size a new LVL to replace the 2x10.

 

[John.Noble]

Hello, Thank you all for your feedback. It is very appreciated! --especially the lack of "acrimony". I had to look that word up. LOL

It’s a 20 foot by 20 foot square garage in Cleveland, Ohio. There’s nothing on top but snow in the winter. A couple months ago we had a lot of snow followed but a lot of light rain, and the snow just sucked up the water weight. The roof is 1 inch wood planks followed by rolled roofing. It leaks. I need to repair the roof too.

Stuard in MN’s photo is perfect.

I’ll have to get the correctly sized beams, but it’s likely that I’ll have create it out of properly spaced and nailed/bolted 10’ sections.

I also have these pics:

 

[volleyball]

I think the water leaking along with the snow load cause it to break at the weak point. There may have been a post way back that somebody removed.
I'd sister a couple of 2x12 LVL's and then put some posts under the ends of them. It doesn't look like much is holding them up.
I'd bolt the LVL's through the old ones to make it easier. I think I'd put some plastic on top of the beams until the roof gets replaced.

 

[chamoisfive]

You could look into the possibility of a flitch beam to suit your needs. That may be a cost effective solution instead of a complete steel beam as has been suggested

 

[MoonRise]

Go to an local actual lumber yard and see if they'll size up the appropriate beam for you.

May be an LVL, or a glulam, and some triple 2x put together.

The local yard should be up on the general snow load requirements for the area.

Oh, and you also need the appropriate vertical posts at the ends to hold up the beam and the roof.

A couple of 2x10's spanning 20' as the beam for a shed roofed garage? Yeah, waaaaay undersized beam there. Might have been passable with 1-2 posts to also help support it. But clear-span 20' long? Nope.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Ha! I guessed right on the construction.

(That style garage is pretty common in Minneapolis as well.)

A couple of 2x10's spanning 20' as the beam for a shed roofed garage? Yeah, waaaaay undersized beam there. Might have been passable with 1-2 posts to also help support it. But clear-span 20' long? Nope.

That garage is probably 60 years old or more, so even though the beam is undersized it did last quite a long time. However, I agree it's entirely possible there was a central post or two that got removed at some point.

 

[toplessHO]

I like the idea of an LVL or could make a flitch beam with a plate of steel or plywood sandwiched between 2 -2xs

 

[darwyn]

What's supporting the beam in the back? I see a ledger board ...

 

[ford33]

Now the roof construction is clear from your second set of pictures. Thanks for posting those additional pictures.

The garage has lasted 60 years as built so replacing the current beam with a better built one is the answer. Spend the money necessary to do it right. You should also fix any other structural areas. You don't want to store expensive items in a garage that is not safe.

 

[C96]

Ha! I guessed right on the construction.

Lol…I'll say, you nailed it! Good eye Stuart

John, good luck with the repairs & keep safety in mind while working

 

[theoldwizard1]

If it were me I'd remove the 2x12 repair and sister (2) 2x10 on each side. You'd end up with a 6 piece 2x10 beam.

The proper and probably also the most cost effective repair is to figure out the proper size for the beam, temp brace the ceiling, and replace the beam with one of the proper size.

Two 2x10 were way overspan when they were new. A new beam will be required.

The beam HAS TO BE REMOVED AND REPLACED. Removal is required because the new upgraded beam has to rest on the vertical support columns at each end. If you can not resize the "pocket" where the original beam rests at each end, then you will have to have an "engineered" glu-lam built.

Any "sistering" will just move the next place it is going to crack, unless the new wood/steel is resting on an appropriate sized support column.

 

[mmb617]

Jack it back to level and temp support it. Size a new LVL to replace the 2x10.

If it were my garage this is what I'd do. Maybe not the cheapest way, but IMO the right way. And I'd still consider adding a center post just because I like to go way overboard in making sure the problem is solved for good.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 to overbuild and correct "design problems" since it was built. I'd check out ALL possibilities (steel beam, lam beam, glued&screwed 2x sandwich, etc) in your area as you will be tearing into structure for repair. Also should consider the middle steel post, as likely that will reduce your overall cost of repair.

Once all the "Bones" are fixed, consider a metal roof instead of rolled roofing. With snow & freezing rain you're getting in that area, a metal roof would help slide off all that weight much better.

 

[kbs2244]

I vote for steel.
It will be both smaller and stronger.

 

[James-W]

I vote to replace the beam and repair the roof at the same time. Since the roof leaks anyway, this would be a good time to fix it.

 

[rburke65]

The word "acrimony" is a synonym for matrimony.

 

[p_mori7]

The roof leaks because heavy snow load deflected the roof beyond the streching capacity of the roofing material.

2x10's way too small for that span & load.

Suggest you visit local sawmill and have them mill you a real beam for the span/load.

It will probably end up being a 6x12, maybe bigger.

 

[bmxdad]

Good time to build new ... maybe

sent by tapatalk for WP8

 

[James-W]

Good time to build new ... maybe

sent by tapatalk for WP8

Well, maybe a new roof with trusses designed to span the distance would be a good idea. I know it would cost a lot of money, but depending on what he keeps in his garage, it may very well be worth spending the money for a really good roof.

 

[volleyball]

I've got a cracked beam, how should I fix? Tear it all down and build new!!
Some people have way too much money.
And if you do, just pay people to fix all your stuff and you don't need a garage.

 

[jwith68]

Get an LVL beam sized at a competent building supply - it may wind up being two LVL's nailed or screwed together. Jack up the existing roof structure. I'd use at least two jacks (four would be better), one (or two) on either side of the old beam, out about 2', with a pair of 16' 2x8's sistered together on top of the jacks running parallel to the beam. This will spread out the load and should allow you to get the roof back up to the correct level, and flat. Any "swag" in a roof that close to flat will cause problems.

Remove the old beam completely. Build new supports in the walls at each end for the new beam - the end supports look totally inadequate in your pictures. Sister three or four or five 2x4's together to support the beam ends. Make a pocket at the top to set the beam into, with one 2x4 running on each side running to the top of the beam. Set the new beam into place, lower the roof structure down onto it. Check to make sure you have eliminated the "swag" in the roof. Individually shim the cross rafters if you haven't. Use some Simpson or USP clips to attach the existing cross rafters to the new beam. The diamond shaped ones should work nicely. Re-install angle bracing from the bottom of the new beam to the cross rafters. Simpson and USP make those too.

Lastly, fix the roof. Do a full tear-off of the old shingles. That roof is way too flat for shingles, that's asking for trouble. Check the sheathing for rot. If its been leaking for long, you're going to have to replace at least part of it. Place new felt paper (or synthetic underlayment, preferably) over the sheathing. Place 1x4 furring strips on top of the underlayment across the roof on 2' centers. Get the metal roofing of your choice, and screw it down with 1.25" screws that will go all the way through the furring strips into the sheathing. Trim it out properly, use foam closure strips where needed. The garage will then be over 100 years old before the roof needs attention again, and that will probably amount to a paint job on the metal.