$$$ Broken bits

[scratchedup]

I recently broke 2 Norseman Super Prem Magnum drill bits...T & 3/8" They were virtually new and stupid expensive to individually replace.

However it seems when all is said and done it is easier to just replace them. Now what do I do with the one that I broke. Only a slight bit at the tip is missing.

 

[uart]

Now what do I do with the one that I broke.

Sharpen it.

You don't really need to sharpen it like the original split point, just a regular point will work. If you have access to a bench grinder then now is a great time to learn to sharpen them.

 

[motofool33]

https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/a...ords=norseman&search=&search_in_description=1

i ordered my replacements from these guys a while ago was pretty cheap to be honest.

 

[scratchedup]

Sharpen it.

You don't really need to sharpen it like the original split point, just a regular point will work. If you have access to a bench grinder then now is a great time to learn to sharpen them.

well the tip of one is jagged as heck....tough grind?

 

[uart]

well the tip of one is jagged as heck....tough grind?

Can you show a photo of the tip. From what I can tell from the existing photos it's just a chipped cutting lip, is that correct? Even completely broken bits can often be ground back and resharpened.

BTW. What were you drilling when it chipped? For me it's usually something that snags the drill that will chip them like that. I also find that trying to enlarge an existing hole can be pretty hard on a drill and chip or break them.

 

[scratchedup]

Can you show a photo of the tip. From what I can tell from the existing photos it's just a chipped cutting lip, is that correct? Even completely broken bits can often be ground back and resharpened.

BTW. What were you drilling when it chipped? For me it's usually something that snags the drill that will chip them like that. I also find that trying to enlarge an existing hole can be pretty hard on a drill and chip or break them.

I will snap a pic right now.

It was 1/4" 304 SS. I've been using tools my whole life but working with metal is new to me and there is a learning curve. I was drilling 3/8" holes in SS with a hand held drill and probably did everything that I could do wrong. But, I learned a lot so next time will be much better.

 

[popparoach]

Ss drill with oil and in bursts letting the bit cool.;I do 2-3 sec bursts.

 

[uart]

When they're totally snapped like that it's best to grind them back flat first, and then start grinding back to a point, working bit by bit from each side to try and keep it even on both sides.

It's not easy if you haven't done it before, but there are quite a few good videos on the net that do a pretty good job of explaining it. If you've got any total rubbish cheap drill bits then those are great for learning with.

 

[Packard V8]

Don't feel too stoopid about breaking them. Drilling stainless with a hand held is a *****. I've been working metal a while and just broke two small diameter bits on a stainless hinge.

Was your workpiece impossible to drill on a press?

Those two broken bits should be resharpened. Rough them freehand on a grinder and finish on a jig. If you're going to be doing much metal, especially stainless, a Drill Doctor or the like is a good investment.

jack ivnes

 

[Kevin54]

I will snap a pic right now.

It was 1/4" 304 SS. I've been using tools my whole life but working with metal is new to me and there is a learning curve. I was drilling 3/8" holes in SS with a hand held drill and probably did everything that I could do wrong. But, I learned a lot so next time will be much better.

Two things........you used a hand drill without having an eye for vertical, and secondly you went two fast. Stainless steel likes it slow, and with a lubricant. And you don't want to force the bit down, especially in a hand drill because you will wobble some. Just use any type of oil as a lube as it will not heat shock the bit like water would.

 

[scratchedup]

Was your workpiece impossible to drill on a press?

It would have been doable...I was impatient but paid the price. It was a learning experience.

Drill Doctor or the like is a good investment.
Are these really with it?

Be kinda cool to have a drill attachment that would trickle feed lube as one drilled.

 

[scratchedup]

Two things........you used a hand drill without having an eye for vertical, and secondly you went two fast. Stainless steel likes it slow, and with a lubricant. And you don't want to force the bit down, especially in a hand drill because you will wobble some. Just use any type of oil as a lube as it will not heat shock the bit like water would.

Actually I started out wrong. I found my 2 hardest bits for a "pilot hole" however the bigger one was only slightly smaller then the 3/8 finished hole and it went thru OK but then to drill a slightly bigger hole was (unknown to me at the time) was almost impossible.

Well I got Pxxed off and used 6 bits to gradually arrive at the 3/8 hole...each bit while just a tiny bit bigger then the previous hole screamed in pain...I did use lots of lube. I did not have a good time.

So - favorite Milwaukee Drill rebuild ($100) + 2 drills ($30)...school was expensive.

 

[hangfirew8]

Oddly enough buying a Drill Doctor a decade ago taught me how to hand sharpen drill bits. I had to get the tips of broken-off bits to approximate the correct shape before the DD would finish them. I found the closer I got the less work I had to do with the DD. In the end I got so close the DD was just putting a better finish on them.

 

[Fugio]

I screw them halfway into wall studs (or wherever) and use them as pegs to hand **** on.

 

[uart]

Well I got Pxxed off and used 6 bits to gradually arrive at the 3/8 hole...each bit while just a tiny bit bigger then the previous hole screamed in pain...I did use lots of lube. I did not have a good time.

Arrrh, that's going to be hard on the drill bits for sure.

I also find it tricky drilling any hard metal with a hand drill. You sometimes just can't get the downward pressure needed to drill efficiently without wobbling and breaking stuff. So in the end you often do need to "step it up" like that, just so that you can keep the thing cutting. But 6 steps to get to 3/8 is getting a bit crazy.

On a drill press a lot of guys would go slow speed but straight through in one pass with a split point drill. With my small DP however I'd go though with a 2.5mm to 3mm (about 3/32 to 1/8) and then straight to 3/8".

With a hand drill I'd still try to jump straight from no larger than about 3/16" to the final 3/8", as long as you can keep it cutting.

So - favorite Milwaukee Drill rebuild ($100) + 2 drills ($30)...school was expensive.

Just wondering, what happened to the drill to require a rebuild?

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Most towns of any size will have a sharpening shop that will restore them to new condition for a buck or two.

As above, it is easy to hand grind them close, then finish on a Drill Doctor. I found a DD on Craigslist, like new, for $35.

It's a "man thing" to not read the directions, and you will NEVER figure out a DD without reading and following the directions to a "T." Many get given as gifts and subsequently sold off cheaply because of this.

 

[pi_guy]

If more people used center drills there life would be much easier.
1/8 center drills are perfect for drilling out pop rivets.

If everybody read instructions and manuals it would kill the computer repair business.

 

[va.grouseman]

Scratchedup,---I really like those Norsemans.---Especially the cobalts.---Kind of an irony that the bits that cut the best and through the hardest materials, are the ones that will snap the easiest.---But super hard means brittle.---That's why you have to love and treat a good bit like it was a baby.---The cheaper ones aren't any better, cause when they get in a bind, rather than snapping, the guide just whets off like it was in a pencil trimmer.---Then you got nothing.---I look at a snapped bit like yours and I see a brand new one minus a few licks on the grinder and touching up on my DD 750.---If you don't want to go to the trouble of sharpening them and you are just going to toss them then I will give you an address where you can mail them, postage paid.---Learn to make new ones out of broken ones yourself.---Gives you a feeling that you just beat the man out of his next free meal.---Feels darn good.

PS.---Stainless is a contrary metal, especially high chrome/nickel, non magnetic stainless.---Tends to want to spall and melt and drag instead of cut.---But the chips will fly like any other irons if you use good bits and keep them razor sharp and lubricate to death.---Let the bit cut at it's own pace, you force it, GAME OVER.

 

[KCarGuy]

I had a Plastic tote filled with Broken Bits from Years and Years of Working on stuff...Electrical, Auto, wood working..etc.
Plus my Dad's and My Father-in-Law's.
I WAS going to toss them, but decided to buy a Drill Doctor and give that a shot.
I saved several hundred dollars of bits, only a handful were actually tossed.
And...They work like or better than new.
I had to buy a few small plastic drawer organizers to sort them out just to store all the bits that I have now.

 

[scratchedup]

Arrrh, that's going to be hard on the drill bits for sure.

I also find it tricky drilling any hard metal with a hand drill. You sometimes just can't get the downward pressure needed to drill efficiently without wobbling and breaking stuff. So in the end you often do need to "step it up" like that, just so that you can keep the thing cutting. But 6 steps to get to 3/8 is getting a bit crazy.

On a drill press a lot of guys would go slow speed but straight through in one pass with a split point drill. With my small DP however I'd go though with a 2.5mm to 3mm (about 3/32 to 1/8) and then straight to 3/8".

With a hand drill I'd still try to jump straight from no larger than about 3/16" to the final 3/8", as long as you can keep it cutting.

Just wondering, what happened to the drill to require a rebuild?

Well to further embarrass myself...it was so tough going (drilling) that the drill would hang up and stop with the bit stuck under load....To not immediately brake the bit I would reverse the drill then start again.

In the end the drill motor spent a lot of time with "juice" being applied and it not turning. My understanding death to elec motors.

Now with no load the drill runs but makes a bad chattering noise.

 

[scratchedup]

Scratchedup,---I really like those Norsemans.---Especially the cobalts.---Kind of an irony that the bits that cut the best and through the hardest materials, are the ones that will snap the easiest.---But super hard means brittle.---That's why you have to love and treat a good bit like it was a baby.---The cheaper ones aren't any better, cause when they get in a bind, rather than snapping, the guide just whets off like it was in a pencil trimmer.---Then you got nothing.---I look at a snapped bit like yours and I see a brand new one minus a few licks on the grinder and touching up on my DD 750.---If you don't want to go to the trouble of sharpening them and you are just going to toss them then I will give you an address where you can mail them, postage paid.---Learn to make new ones out of broken ones yourself.---Gives you a feeling that you just beat the man out of his next free meal.---Feels darn good.

PS.---Stainless is a contrary metal, especially high chrome/nickel, non magnetic stainless.---Tends to want to spall and melt and drag instead of cut.---But the chips will fly like any other irons if you use good bits and keep them razor sharp and lubricate to death.---Let the bit cut at it's own pace, you force it, GAME OVER.

THX for this...
It can get a little confusing and complicated. The Norseman bits I have are not cobalt but have a special (I assume proprietary) cutting edge and grind. Cobalts are great and I assume can be sharpened but to sharpen these to the Norseman "special tip"standard...???

Part of my problem is I'm looking at retirement (not my choice) soonish so I am working lots of hours and have a plethora of unfinished projects that I would like to finish. (Project car on lift in my garage...going on 8 years.)

So sharpening bits...I have done a few large sizes but it is just not cost effective now for me as much as I would like to do it.

I have 2 TIG welders so that will be my first schooling when I make time.

Shoot me a PM. I'd be happy to send u these.

 

[hangfirew8]

As above, it is easy to hand grind them close, then finish on a Drill Doctor. I found a DD on Craigslist, like new, for $35.

It's a "man thing" to not read the directions, and you will NEVER figure out a DD without reading and following the directions to a "T." Many get given as gifts and subsequently sold off cheaply because of this.

Yup. CL is littered with DD's. I've read long diatribes about DD's where it is obvious the instructions were not read, such as negative relief on tight twist bits- it's a solvable problem IF YOU CAN READ.

If more people used center drills there life would be much easier.
1/8 center drills are perfect for drilling out pop rivets.

Yup.

If everybody read instructions and manuals it would kill the computer repair business.

Nope. The computer repair business is already dead due to ultra cheap computer manufacturing.

The computer support and consulting business is doing well, however, because people need computers to do business, and even if everybody read all the instructions and manuals, computers are too complex for many people to figure out. Tablets are solving that problem for consumers, but not for business. Yet.