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Broken cast part on Pressure Washer

rustyanthony

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****UPDATE*****
So I did a little amazon searching and came up with a pump that I think will fit. A few more measurements will confirm it.

YAMATIC Max 3000 PSI Pressure Washer Pump

My new concern is whether or not the stock 3.75hp motor can work a pump rated for "Vertical engine at 6.5 ~ 7hp (180 ~ 196cc)". If the shaft and bolt hole measurements work is there any reason this pump/motor wouldn't have enough chooch in it to put out the factory 1,500 PSI?


________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
My father-in-law wanted to replace the hose/gun on his pressure washer and managed to break the piece pictured below. I've heard of folks brazing broken cast parts but I'm not terribly confident it would sustain in a pressured environment. I'm unable to find any parts or information on this old Coleman Powermate pressure washer. So I think it's down to figure out how to fix the broken part or salvage the motor and toss the rest. I'm open to your opinions.

Coleman Powermate
Model#
PW0811508.02
Serial# HH0500401
GPM: 2.0
PSI: 1500
RPM: 3600

IMG_6159.JPG
IMG_6160.JPG
 
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65ranchero

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I don't think it will work bite the bullet and get a new one cast aluminum I believe is very hard to braze properly.
Can you find a new pump assembly ?
With that in mind it may be close to a new PW.
Pump cost is around $135 so it may be smart to look at new ones
 
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BukitCase

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Don't think I would do that...


33 years in industrial instrumentation tells me that if you can't find a compatible PUMP, have fun with your NEW pressure washer. Period... Steve
 

CraigStu

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I like cobbler's idea to give it a shot, why not? $20 tap and a $10 ****** won't be a huge loss if it doesn't last. But I don't think it will work real well or real long. When you run the tap in, you will remove a fair amount of metal from an area that already broke at full thickness. Also the leverage that hose has on that extended ****** is substantial. If he could find a way splice it back together and then support it out at the end so the hose isn't pulling on the fix, it 'might' work.
 

BukitCase

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Why not? 'cause even schedule 80 1/2" steel pipe is only rated for 1750# working pressure - and larger sizes even LESS, check the link I posted above. Personally, between 4 years in the Army (vietnam era) and 33 years in heavy industrial environment, I saw ENOUGH results from shrapnel NOT to tempt fate intentionally... Steve
 

Jswain

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Well I mean you could get a xxh seamless pipe ******, maybe it would work. You would also then need and adapter to adapt the m22(or whatever fitting the hose is). And if you don't have the likely 3/8 or 1/4 npt tap to the list. But by then you're likely up to 60% the cost of a new pump from Amazon or more.

I would just replace the pump
 
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unslow1

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Would you be able to sleeve the inside of something like that and maybe epoxy it in? I've put a sleeve in an engine cylinder but never tried something like that. The sleeve wouldn't have to be very thick just fit tight.
 

The Cobbler

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Well I mean you could get a xxh seamless pipe ******, maybe it would work. You would also then need and adapter to adapt the m22(or whatever fitting the hose is). And if you don't have the likely 3/8 or 1/4 npt tap to the list. But by then you're likely up to 60% the cost of a new pump from Amazon or more.

I would just replace the pump
but, this is GJ, and you're supposed to buy tools and fix stuff... no matter the cost! LOL
 

PoorUB

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Look at that chart again. 1/2 pipe has a working pressure of 1,300 PSI and a burst of 10,380 PSI. You would be slightly over the safe working pressure, but well under the burst. Plus if it fails it will split and not cause any real carnage. Plus he probably needs just 3/8" or 1/4" NPT and it will be rated higher yet.

I guess I need to remove the schedule 40 galvanized pipe from my 2,000 PSI pressure washer that has been on there for 30 years!
 

BukitCase

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Nah, you're probably good - that 30 year old pipe was made long BEFORE everything you buy but a loaf of bread came from China :( ... Steve
 

KenC

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Tap (maybe drill a little to get within the taps size range) and sched 80 pipe ****** fitting would be my first try too. that die cast aluminum with unknown properties is surely not as strong as good quality steel.
 

Crabman

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I have an old Excell power washer, maybe 25 years old. Frame is fine, Honda 160 will run forever. Pump blew last summer.

I was trying to find a new pump.

Found this family owned small business in Indiana, they sell on ebay and Amazon. I emailed them the model and serial number and said I need the pump. They responded within a day and I bought the pump, around $100 I think. It arrived promptly. 4 bolts, some grease and about 15 minutes to install.

Runs like a new one. Might want to email them and see if they have one that works. I am thinking a repair to something under big pressure not worth the risk as some have said.

 

NC Fabricator25

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Why not? 'cause even schedule 80 1/2" steel pipe is only rated for 1750# working pressure - and larger sizes even LESS, check the link I posted above. Personally, between 4 years in the Army (vietnam era) and 33 years in heavy industrial environment, I saw ENOUGH results from shrapnel NOT to tempt fate intentionally... Steve
Both of my diesel fired hot water washers use many feet of sch80 pipe, either 1/2" or 3/4", to make up the main burner coil. Not sure there's too much worry in using sch80 fittings.
 

BukitCase

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"Not sure there's too much worry in using sch80 fittings."

The original suggestion said NOTHING about sch80, that was ME stating that even the higher rated pipe didn't have a working pressure rating high enough for even the WIMPIEST pressure washer. Also, I did state my PERSONAL opinion, as did others - after looking at the OP's picture, AND reading that it was his DAD's washer, my OPINION was that I wouldn't take chances when a replacement pump could be had for so little $$... Steve
 

PWC Repair

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I've done that exact repair on my old electric pressure washer. I just did a drill ,and tap, then sealed in a ******, then pushed the hose onto the ****** and secured with oetiker clamps. My wife uses it a few times a year on the deck.
 

BukitCase

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PWC, since you've actually DONE it you'd know - is that area only seeing INLET water pressure? If so I'd also not have a problem with the pipe ******. I couldn't tell from the pic, and my nearly 40 yr old washer (GX390, 3500 psi) looks NOTHING like the OP's pic. Mine's pump is still the original. I drain and blow out the pump after every use, I ONLY use no-E gas and it still starts on 1 or 2 pulls and can still knock fully cured concrete off a backhoe bucket... Steve
 

PWC Repair

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Sorry, been busy and have not checked in. The reason I felt OK doing it to mine is because I knew the pressure was waayYYY less at the pump. You can see that if you start one up and remove the tip from the wand then pull the trigger. The max pressure rating is stated would be the pressure you may have WITH tip in place......which is a large reduction in the flow path thus boosting the pressure. I'm sure there could be math used to figure out exactly how much pressure might be at the pump outlet but I'd have to guess 200-300 psi at best.
 
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