Broken Garage Opener - next steps?

[Greg_R]

I have a 15yr old Liftmaster 1/2HP chain drive opener that recently broke. The plastic gear has stripped out and I could just replace the part ($5-$6 or so). However, I previously (3 years ago) had to increase the "strength" of the lift with the adjustment screws on the opener. I keep the rollers and track lubricated so I'm wondering if it was a poor install on the door (runs OK in summer, locks up in winter due to temp changes). It's also a cheap, noisy unit. So, keeping in mind the unit's age, which of the following options do you all recommend? -->

1) Just replace the gear and re-lube everything. It should last another 10 years or so...
2) Replace the gear & worm drive & re-lube everything. (worm gear is not broken but since I'm in there...)
3) Replace gears and all the rollers. Which roller style and brand is recommended (nylon, steel, ???)?
4) Replace the entire lift unit & rollers. Make any track adjustments if required. What's recommended for 1/2HP lifts? My door is ~24' wide and fiberglass (not heavy). It looks like Chamberlain Wisperdrive is the best option (even though all the residential stuff is cheap)?
5) Replace everything (opener, door, door rails & springs, etc.). Asked another way: If the door panels are OK, do the metal rails ever wear out?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I have a separate garage and shop building. I have had 2 garage door openers fail on the garage in the same manner you describe. I refurbed both with a kit from the manufacturer and moved them to the shop where they have performed flawlessly for years. (I installed a new opener on the house when they failed due to wanting the repair done fast, before I could get the repair kit.)

It is highly likely that your springs have weakened on the door over time and the door is no longer balanced properly, thus putting too much strain on the opener. When the opener is disconnected from the door, can you raise it about half way and have the door stay? If it is hard to raise or comes crashing down when released, your springs need to be adjusted or replaced.

Unless you see visible damage, you probably don't need to do anything with the rails. Rollers occasionaly wear out, particularly if you don't keep them lubed.

I have a 15yr old Liftmaster 1/2HP chain drive opener that recently broke. The plastic gear has stripped out and I could just replace the part ($5-$6 or so). However, I previously (3 years ago) had to increase the "strength" of the lift with the adjustment screws on the opener. I keep the rollers and track lubricated so I'm wondering if it was a poor install on the door (runs OK in summer, locks up in winter due to temp changes). It's also a cheap, noisy unit. So, keeping in mind the unit's age, which of the following options do you all recommend? -->

1) Just replace the gear and re-lube everything. It should last another 10 years or so...
2) Replace the gear & worm drive & re-lube everything. (worm gear is not broken but since I'm in there...)
3) Replace gears and all the rollers. Which roller style and brand is recommended (nylon, steel, ???)?
4) Replace the entire lift unit & rollers. Make any track adjustments if required. What's recommended for 1/2HP lifts? My door is ~24' wide and fiberglass (not heavy). It looks like Chamberlain Wisperdrive is the best option (even though all the residential stuff is cheap)?
5) Replace everything (opener, door, door rails & springs, etc.). Asked another way: If the door panels are OK, do the metal rails ever wear out?

 

[BillK]

Greg,
I fixed my 20 year old Sears opener last year. Same deal, the gear stripped. Cost about $20 for the complete kit. That was a whole lot cheaper and easier than putting up a new one

Most important thing is to check the door like Jeff said above. If the door is hard to open manually, it will eventually wear out the opener.

 

[kevinwilly]

I just bought a house with two of those liftmaster openers (one a chamberlain brand and one a sears brand).

Both were broken. One gave me a code for a bad RPM sensor and had a broken gear, and the other had a gear that was literally worn down to nothing.

Amazon.com sells the gears for a BUCK. One dollar. RPM sensor was 6 bucks.

So I bought 4 gears to have spares, a new sensor, and i'm in it for about 16 bucks after shipping.

Your metal guide rails, the hinges, and door panels are probably fine. If they are in good shape, don't touch them.

As was said above- check your spring tension. If they are torsion springs, call someone unless you REALLY know what you are doing. Those things are dangerous as heck to play with. If they are longitudinal, you can just replace them or take out some slack in the cables really easily.

But yeah- disconnect the opener and see how much effort it takes to open the door. You might just have a tight spot or not enough spring tension. The rails can get misaligned pretty easily by running a lawnmower or something into them.

In short- sure, you COULD replace everything. But those old liftmaster openers are tanks. If you have to replace a gear every 10 or 15 years it's worth it in my mind. Check over the door and lube everything up nicely before you go replacing anything.

 

[upndown]

Don't waste your time replacing only the gear!! Replace the complete gear and sprocket assy. Comes with everything you'll need and the same amount of work.You can buy them all day off E-bay.

If you go that route make sure you replace the lower bushing!! Or you will get real good at replacing the gear, also make sure to use all the grease on the worm and gear..very important!
good luck