To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Broken tap removal tools

ShuhornGarage

Active member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
41
There are a few broken tap tools available on Amazon.

Walton is one brand & an off shore simpler tool with a similar design but with no adjustment are avaialble. Has anyone used either & your opinions of either or both will be appreiated
Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jimindm

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
2,398
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
I have the walton set.

A lot of your success using them depends on how the tap is broke. If you were getting after it and it is tight, it is a job. Can not comment about the other brand mentioned, but the waltons have to slide down into the grooves of the tap, which in itself is hard to clean out so you can even accomplish.

Taps are on of those tools that your really have to get a feel of how it works the best. Knowing when to clean it out, when to oil it, when to just not force it any more.

I suppose the best thing is you just got that experience covered.
 

ItsNemo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Messages
4,806
Location
Canada
^^ Agreed, taps or a place where you can't just keep leaning into them if they get difficult to turn...little nibbles, back out, oil, repeat.

As for removers, if it's just because you got off center in pressure...ya they'll work, if it's because they bound up and you kept going...good luck. Sometimes a punch/hammer is the best solution.
 

HenryAZ

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
1,054
Location
South Congress AZ
I have not had to deal with broken taps too often. But I picked up a tip somewhere along the way that worked for me. Hold a can of compressed air upside down and spray the broken tap. This will freeze the metal. Working quickly, use a small cold chisel to break up the frozen tap. This will get only the top layer of the tap. Rinse and repeat as you work your way down.
 

RoninB4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
3,618
Location
Under My House
More than a little experience with broken taps. Sometimes the Walton type will work, it depends upon how the tap broke and how much remains in the hole. If the tap was "squeaking", getting tight going in, and is in deep I wouldn't have high hopes. I'd try the extractor anyway but wouldn't have high expectations for a clean removal. You're next choices involve time and/or money. If you have the time there's grinding the tap body hollow with a small mounted wheel and breaking/picking ALL the small pieces out, tap size makes a big difference here. The idea is to hollow out enough of the tap body to collapse inward the parts still stuck in the hole threads. Use compressed air and small dental picks. Trying to shatter the tap body with a punch sometimes works if there's not much of the tap in the hole but it will likely deform threads and you'll have to re-tap or c'bore the ruined threads.

If you don't have time to do this then the cleanest removal you can do is at a machine shop that has a small machine made for this purpose. They're called by a variety of names like Elox, hole popper, or tap burner. It will be around $100 but it will be a clean disintegration of the tap and no additional damage to the hole. I've used them before and they work great. Using a carbide cutter in a mill can work but don't try this in a drill press or you'll have a bigger problem when the carbide shatters.

Tapping holes can sometimes be an iffy procedure, removing broken taps can be an even more iffy procedure. If nothing else, try to learn what caused the tap to break. I've broken plenty of them myself. Post if you want tips. Good luck.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Steve_P

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,186
I have some of the Walton ones. Like everyone has said, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't; it depends on how the tap was broken off. They are worth having, but they definitely aren't a guaranteed solution.
 

JradM

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
1,821
Location
Alberta
I don't have a tap extractor - but it seemed like a good idea, so I starting reading up and watching Youtube's after reading your post. I figure I might want to have a set on hand too.

I presume you're debating between this version with fixed "fingers" and the Walton with extendable fingers and a outer sliding collar.

617+C6i0vjL._AC_SX679_.jpg

91vQkQ5xz1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


From the complaints I read and the Youtube videos of people demonstrating how to break the Walton tap extractors, it seems like a critical factor is how close you can get the collar to the work surface. I.e. my theory is that if you leave it farther from where the tap enters the hole, the fingers flex as you apply force and are more likely to snap. If you can choke up close, you can rely more on the shear strength of those fingers.

That's my armchair guess anyway.

How that relates to the two different styles is that, with the version with the fixed fingers, if you cannot drive them deep enough into the hole so the solid part bottoms out, presumably they can flex and break easily. If you can drive it in all the way, they're probably not much different from the Walton (at least in design - I've no idea of the metallurgy).

I'm tempted to try the cheap ones myself since, if I can't get the tap out that way, I probably need a different solution anyway,

By the way, in the past when I've broken a tap and there's nothing outside the hole to grab, I've used a punch to break pieces off. It's a royal pain, but can work.
 

dr_clyde

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,464
Location
Holland, MI
I find tap extractors (and most extractors in general) tend to just break off and make it worse.

I just use the tig welder and weld a little nub on the end of the tap, then weld a bar or something to the nub. Unless the tap is shattered bad, I can usually get them out and save the thread.

Otherwise a small carbide end mill on the milling machine does the trick.

I’ve occasionally sent the part out for EDM drilling if the part is expensive enough.

I get a fair amount of broken tap/bolt removal jobs from other shops. The classics are auto mechanics breaking off taps in weird places and manifold studs on old cars. I sometimes bring my Maxstar tig to the jobsite and do the extraction in the machine. Worst one was up inside a beverage carton filler the customer attempted to fix themselves. I had to crawl inside the underside of the thing and weld onto the end of a broken 1/4-20 tap on the cam adjuster. Was like working in a wet, greasy coffin.
 
OP
S

ShuhornGarage

Active member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
41
I have the walton set.

A lot of your success using them depends on how the tap is broke. If you were getting after it and it is tight, it is a job. Can not comment about the other brand mentioned, but the waltons have to slide down into the grooves of the tap, which in itself is hard to clean out so you can even accomplish.

Taps are on of those tools that your really have to get a feel of how it works the best. Knowing when to clean it out, when to oil it, when to just not force it any more.

I suppose the best thing is you just got that experience covered.
Thx for your reply. Much apprecated. Cheers
 
OP
S

ShuhornGarage

Active member
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
41
Thank you to all respondents, your advise & opinions are appreciated. I have just rec'd a set of the off shore type as shown above, hopefully I wont ever need to test them out but alas, I expect one day will be test day, lots of lube & more patience
Chers all
 

dnschmidt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,289
Location
Phoenix, AZ
EDM at a machine shop is the best. It's like Star Wars when the Princess says: "Obi Wan you're our only hope."
 

Steve_P

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,186
EDM at a machine shop is the best. It's like Star Wars when the Princess says: "Obi Wan you're our only hope."

sure. But that's going to cost $200+ for a shop to even touch it, and then you'll probably have to wait weeks for them to get to it. I'm in a low COL area and machine shop rate is $100-300 an hour here. They won't touch something for less than $100, and you'll wait weeks unless you know them. $100/hr is for the floor sweeper guy to sand on something; $300 is for the CNC mill. This isn't going to be something that most homeowners will opt for unless it's a cylinder head and they can afford the downtime. For an exhaust manifold they'll go to the junkyard.
 

dr_clyde

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,464
Location
Holland, MI
sure. But that's going to cost $200+ for a shop to even touch it, and then you'll probably have to wait weeks for them to get to it. I'm in a low COL area and machine shop rate is $100-300 an hour here. They won't touch something for less than $100, and you'll wait weeks unless you know them. $100/hr is for the floor sweeper guy to sand on something; $300 is for the CNC mill. This isn't going to be something that most homeowners will opt for unless it's a cylinder head and they can afford the downtime. For an exhaust manifold they'll go to the junkyard.
If it’s an easy replacement then you can go that route. If it’s a one of a kind or really expensive part you pay the long dollar to save the part.

Tap extractors are merely the front line infantry in the war. Probably going to die but you need to send them in to soak up some of the enemy bullets and maybe make some progress.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom