New here. One of the 2 springs broke last night. Want to replace but also upgrade spring to achieve longer fatigue life. Presently it is a 218-22 with white color code. I think this means it is 0.218" diameter spring and 22" long. My understanding is a longer spring will last longer. But how do I know which longer spring to get and how many turns for the tension. I believe its 30 turns on my present spring. Thinking about ordering from Amazon but don't know what to get. TIA.
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Broken Torsion Spring
- Thread starter tobybul
- Start date
RoninB4
Well-known member
Welcome to the ranch pull up a chair. There are websites that offer formulas for your application. You'll need to measure length (tape measure), coil wire diameter (use a vernier/dial/digital caliper), the coil diameter, and the weight of the garage door (bathroom scale). I didn't know how to do this either when mine broke but found all the information on line, just dig for it. Be very careful to follow instructions as there's a lot of energy in those springs when they get wound up. Replace both as the other one is just as old. Do one at a time, it's not difficult. Good luck.
Ok, you're missing inside diameter and drum size to actually calculate springs. So you'll need to measure the ID of the spring coil (broken one will be nicely accessible - usually 1.75/2" Drum size should be cast into the drums - usually 400-8 but some oddballs like 350 have appeared on some doors.
Never believe the color codes - we installers/service techs have a bad habit of cutting stock spring lengths to size onsite...
Never believe the color codes - we installers/service techs have a bad habit of cutting stock spring lengths to size onsite...
Big Bad Dad
Well-known member
I watch several of his videos and ordered the parts from this company when I converted my doors from extension springs to torsion springs and installed jackshaft openers last year. I learned some valuable info from the videos. https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-repair-videos.php
nadogail
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum from the Shore of San Diego Bay. Being of sufficient age and pretty well beat up physically i defer the replacement of torsion springs to professionals. The work is neither "Rocket Science" or a "Black Art", but the job requires a knowledge of the dangers and forces involved.
Good luck and don't let the energy in the spring get out of control.
Good luck and don't let the energy in the spring get out of control.
ID is 2". Not sure what the drum is. Right now, I'm waiting for tomorrow (Monday) to talk to DuraLift if I decide to DIY. Like I mentioned, I want to upgrade the springs for a longer cycle life which I believe will be a longer spring. And also, to factor-in the size and weight of my door, an insulated 16x7 (Overhead Door Company). The exstg spring is marked 218-22 which I believe means the spring coil dia is 0.218" and is a nominal 22" long. I have nothing against a company doing it and pay the cost but I thought I'd look into doing it myself.Ok, you're missing inside diameter and drum size to actually calculate springs. So you'll need to measure the ID of the spring coil (broken one will be nicely accessible - usually 1.75/2" Drum size should be cast into the drums - usually 400-8 but some oddballs like 350 have appeared on some doors.
Never believe the color codes - we installers/service techs have a bad habit of cutting stock spring lengths to size onsite...
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Ballparking - 2@ .2187x2x22 I'd probably replace with a pair of .2343x2x30.5 - for 24.5k, but those might cost a fair bit more right now - most companies have issues with spring wire right now; precut "stock" lengths are more attainable than the 10' lengths.ID is 2". Not sure what the drum is. Right now, I'm waiting for tomorrow (Monday) to talk to DuraLift if I decide to DIY. Like I mentioned, I want to upgrade the springs for a longer cycle life which I believe will be a longer spring. And also, to factor-in the size and weight of my door, an insulated 16x7 (Overhead Door Company). The exstg spring is marked 218-22 which I believe means the spring coil dia is 0.218" and is a nominal 22" long. I have nothing against a company doing it and pay the cost but I thought I'd look into doing it myself.
I wish I did mine myself. Felt rushed and called a repair guy. So he put in whatever he had on his truck. Both springs are at least 6in shorter than the previous ones, just looking at the old marks on the tube. The door works but I can hear the motor working harder. The door goes up slower and slams a bit when it closes. Before it was much better balanced and smoother. Of course he took the old springs with him so I don't know what they were. Next time it breaks I have to size it up. Now it bugs me every time when I look at it going up slower.ID is 2". Not sure what the drum is. Right now, I'm waiting for tomorrow (Monday) to talk to DuraLift if I decide to DIY. Like I mentioned, I want to upgrade the springs for a longer cycle life which I believe will be a longer spring. And also, to factor-in the size and weight of my door, an insulated 16x7 (Overhead Door Company). The exstg spring is marked 218-22 which I believe means the spring coil dia is 0.218" and is a nominal 22" long. I have nothing against a company doing it and pay the cost but I thought I'd look into doing it myself.
RoninB4
Well-known member
If you can measure the distance the door travels along the track, weight of the door (bathroom scale) and the available opening of the spring (mounting rod diameter) there should be a chart showing what you'd need (length, diameter of spring, and wire diameter) plus the availability for an upgrade. The chart shows the number of cycles (up/down) that can be expected before the spring is fatigued enough to break. An upgrade just buys you more cycles, that's what I did. I bought this house and I presumed nothing was correct due to the PO. I had to dig a bit on the internet but I clearly recall seeing/using the chart when I ordered the new springs. I'd never done this either but it's not difficult provided you take all measures to be safe, there's a lot of energy in those springs when you start winding them up. The door should be well balanced enough to raise/lower it with just a couple of fingers so it's not "slamming" or working the motor too hard. I had to adjust mine 3 times before it was correct. Just don't tighten the flange set screw too much if the mounting rod/bar is hollow or you'll collapse the rod and make it difficult to replace the springs next time. Let off of the winding stick gradually to determine if the flange set screw is tightened enough. There's also a way to have the second winding stick locked against the overhead frame before removing the first one (hope that makes sense). Much safer that way. Hope this helps someone.I wish I did mine myself. Felt rushed and called a repair guy. So he put in whatever he had on his truck. Both springs are at least 6in shorter than the previous ones, just looking at the old marks on the tube. The door works but I can hear the motor working harder. The door goes up slower and slams a bit when it closes. Before it was much better balanced and smoother. Of course he took the old springs with him so I don't know what they were. Next time it breaks I have to size it up. Now it bugs me every time when I look at it going up slower.
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