Bronco Roll Cage Build

[tlmartin84]

Well I got it in a coat of epoxy primer and urethane satin black yesterday. Here are some pictures from the build. Now I just have to get it installed.

I started this out by studying various cages. I liked various aspects from each cage (Toms, KE, etc.). There were things I did not like, some were to narrow or too short. Another thing that drove me nuts, was the B pillar not matching the rake on the seat. And then the C pillar needed an opposite and equal rake for aesthetics.

I also wanted an overhead console with dome lights (hence the wires), I will detail this on the final install in an updated post.

I did not like the front A pillar bars going to the floor. I will add A pillar bars and the cowl plates similar to Tom's when I do the frame off in a few years. Right now I am afraid to disassemble to much as rust is all that is holding it together. HA.

I will also say I am a better Migger than a Tigger, but I figured this was a good opportunity to get some Tig practice in. So no, it is not perfect...critique all you want.

First I started with my bender and DOM tubing. This is my first go around with DOM. It took me a few tries to get the bends made without breaking the tube. I had to spend some time polishing the dies. The first task was the two main hoops.

The next step was getting the crossmembers in place and the base plates on.

Next was to weld in the other overhead supports and gussets. Then another test fit. I must took this thing in and out 20 times. I won't lie, after welding I still had to get out the torch and do some tweaking.....

I had my buddy cut these gussets for me.

Next step was the seat belt bungs. I reused 6 from my old cage and turned two new ones down on the lathe.

Lastly was paint! 3 Coats of Kirkers epoxy and 3 coats of Kirkers Urethane Hot Rod Satin.

I'll post some install pictures as soon as I get it in!

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice work. looks great!

Why no front tie in/A-pillar? I get that what you built is beyond the original cage that also doesn't extend to dash. The tubing over driver/pass is unsupported at front end. Not trying to poo-poo on your excellent design, bend, fit-up and welding work, just wondering.

 

[mike93lx]

Same question. If you rolled over, isn't that just going to fold the tubes onto the passengers?

Beautiful work though. Looks fantastic

 

[tlmartin84]

Nice work. looks great!

Why no front tie in/A-pillar? I get that what you built is beyond the original cage that also doesn't extend to dash. The tubing over driver/pass is unsupported at front end. Not trying to poo-poo on your excellent desing, bend, fit-up and welding work, just wondering.

Same question. If you rolled over, isn't that just going to fold the tubes onto the passengers?

Beautiful work though. Looks fantastic

You missed this line in the original post...

"I did not like the front A pillar bars going to the floor. I will add A pillar bars and the cowl plates similar to Tom's when I do the frame off in a few years. Right now I am afraid to disassemble to much as rust is all that is holding it together. HA."

Along that same line of thought though....in a "normal" rollover even if the bars do lay down, hopefully they won't come completely down.

 

[slowtwitch73]

What bender? I need to make a cage for a cj3b. Looking around seems the pre bent kits may be the way to go... I don't have any special considerations.

My first car was a '74 Bronco.

 

[jack stand]

Nice (very) work. Sure wish I kept my 67 & 76. Still have a **** ton great memories though.
The front hoop really crowds entry and exit unless you somehow go over the windshield, but that seems very complicated to bring it down to anything near the frame.

 

[Bopbop]

The cage turned out really nice. The turn breaking in the bend really was a shock to me. As many cages as i built in the past for dirt cars I never had a tube to break. I was talking with a guy who was also building cages the same time I was said he had several to break but figured it was bad tubing.
Slowtwitch, I don't know the bender the OP used but I really liked my JD2 bender. They have several models available and dies that can bend 180 degrees. Watch out there are a couple of benders out there that cannot bend a full 90 degrees.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

You could have made a much cleaner, stronger, simpler cage by avoid the hoop design....

 

[slowtwitch73]

You could have made a much cleaner, stronger, simpler cage by avoid the hoop design....

I'd like to know more.. what are the other ways besides hoop style? I need to make one soon..

 

[tlmartin84]

The cage turned out really nice. The turn breaking in the bend really was a shock to me. As many cages as i built in the past for dirt cars I never had a tube to break. I was talking with a guy who was also building cages the same time I was said he had several to break but figured it was bad tubing.
Slowtwitch, I don't know the bender the OP used but I really liked my JD2 bender. They have several models available and dies that can bend 180 degrees. Watch out there are a couple of benders out there that cannot bend a full 90 degrees.

Mine is a home made JD2 style...

Once I smoothed the die up, I had no issues.

I had done a few hundred feet of welded seam, and never had an issue on the same die. The DOM was another story.

 

[tlmartin84]

You could have made a much cleaner, stronger, simpler cage by avoid the hoop design....

Coulda, woulda , shoulda... I built what I wanted.

 

[rattle_snake]

I'd like to know more.. what are the other ways besides hoop style? I need to make one soon..

Modern competition cages have few bends in tubing as it weakens material. Joints are 'nodes', which distribute load. Look at ultra4, king of hammers, rock bouncers, purpose built crawler buggies, ect. Only bends may be a-pillar or those for looks.

but it depends on the application. A mild trail rig doesn't need the strenght and protection a purpose built race vehicle does.

I'll say it again, great job OP, you should be proud of the result.

 

[tlmartin84]

Modern competition cages have few bends in tubing as it weakens material. Joints are 'nodes', which distribute load. Look at ultra4, king of hammers, rock bouncers, purpose built crawler buggies, ect. Only bends may be a-pillar or those for looks.

but it depends on the application. A mild trail rig doesn't need the strenght and protection a purpose built race vehicle does.

I'll say it again, great job OP, you should be proud of the result.

Thank you.

I looked at several of those style cages. At the end of the day I just didn't like the way they looked. Personal preference.

This thing will never see a "trail" some dirt back roads, absolutely.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Ah ok. Seems a terminology thing as many of the images I found still had what I would call a hoop. 'Nodes' is triangulation?

Seems many of the cages out there are way over built and heavy. At a certain point a porky cage (and exo cages over body) will add to the likely hood of tipping.

I want strong with the least weight to make it strong... top heavy *****.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes I agree that some cages seem over the top and have 37 bars going everywhere. That said some of those are made from thinner wall material, smaller diameter, chromoly or some combo.
Some guys are going for ultra4 look of overkill, but yes it just makes it heavy. Back seat, door openings blocked by a spider web of DOM.

A node is just where 3 or more tubes come together. basically triangulation yes.

I added the front half of a cage to the stock roll bar on my 77 bronco. Looking back, although it looked nice it was not that safe.

 

[rattle_snake]

Mine is a home made JD2 style...

Man I like that vertical design and the AoH ram. Do you have a plasma table to make stuff like that?

 

[WoodsTruck]

Two points from looking at roll bar design years ago.

The gusset should not be mounted to the center of the tube but towards the outside of the radius. Imagine a flat board across the bars and slip the gusset over until it meets up then weld it. It will distribute the impact energy to a broader portion of the tube unlike the center when it can crease and puncture the tube.

The foot plates need to be of different size on either side of the body panel. This keeps it from "working" the sheet metal and creating a crease which will severe with a roll over impact. If the bottom plate is reinforced into the frame that can be a different story.

I also have an EB but haven't gone down the rabbit hole of a full cage. I can barely lift the 4-point roll bar someone built decades ago.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I added the front half of a cage to the stock roll bar on my 77 bronco. Looking back, although it looked nice it was not that safe.

Mine had a straight up early 90's 'full cage' with the addition of a horizontal bar that ran behind the seats for added strength and harness attatchment. It seemed pretty robust for a general purpose roll bar... but it was a different world back then too.

 

[tlmartin84]

Man I like that vertical design and the AoH ram. Do you have a plasma table to make stuff like that?

I do not. I usually send it out to be cut.

 

[Monza Harry]

Try "Deburring" the tubing in addition to the polishing you have already completed on the dies, and some lube may lessen those drag marks. Even some dry graphite or silicone lube maybe enough. Nice bender as well, nice looking touch with the insignias in the gussets! Harry

 

[Bopbop]

Mine is a home made JD2 style...

Once I smoothed the die up, I had no issues.

I had done a few hundred feet of welded seam, and never had an issue on the same die. The DOM was another story.

I really like the design of your bender. I have looked at some similar benders that has been modified to work like yours and have been debating on changing mine up.
A lot of the tubing I was bending was DOM and I never had and issue. Keeping the dies cleaned was something I had preached to me early on. Looking at the Stock Car steel website it seems that a lot of the tubing they sell is now for roll cages they polish from 095 to 090 for weight savings. This would also help with keeping the dies clean and reduce the pinching in the die.
I like the curves in the bend and if done right and supported properly they are very strong.

 

[gearhead1]

+1 on the bender, that is a slick set up. Is it made from 1/2” thick plate? Are you using JD2 dies?

 

[Mr.N]

Mine is a home made JD2 style...
Once I smoothed the die up, I had no issues.
I had done a few hundred feet of welded seam, and never had an issue on the same die. The DOM was another story.

Lots of lithium grease on the die, a clean tube with some new oil is my go-to.
I've a similar bender.

Also, nice cage! thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[Ohmthis]

Very nice fab work! Those broncos are one of my favorite vehicles of all time.

 

[phred]

Really nice work on the roll bar.

 

[Keyblazer]

Beautiful work!
What did you use to clean up the tubing?

 

[Mr.N]

Beautiful work!
What did you use to clean up the tubing?

For DOM I use acetone and cheap rags.
For electric resistance welded tube or other steel with a phosphate conversion coating there are several threads. If you have time soaking vinegar can work but I usually use a sanding flap disk.
It is has rust, that is a different deal and a task I hate.

 

[tlmartin84]

+1 on the bender, that is a slick set up. Is it made from 1/2” thick plate? Are you using JD2 dies?

1/2" plate. JD2 dies