Brush finish concrete issue

[Deude_Mann]

Short version: I have a new, light-brushed finished, indoor concrete slab, no fillers or sealants, that I want to cover with a utilitarian floor treatment. This is for a home automotive shop. Question: Am I going to have big problems from the brush finish or can I make this work?

Long version: I have a new 1200 sq ft concrete slab (for a metal building) that has a light brushed finish. It is hard to describe but it is not a heavy brush finish. It should be great for adhesion, but apparently not so great for floor sealant/finish product coverage. From what I have been told by at least one vendor this is not a great starting situation.

On the good side, the slab is standard concrete, and has no fiberglass or curing agents; it readily absorbs water. There is no staining, and there will only be light foot traffic before the floor is finished with whatever.

I am trying to stay under or around $2 per sq ft in materials. Labor will be mine and others (free). This is a shop that will be used for automotive work and light fabrication as well as vehicle storage. I am not looking for a showroom floor glass smooth appearance, just durability and automotive chemical resistance. A solid color with no chips is OK. A rough finish will also be OK since I want the grip anyway and I can hose down/shop vac the floor if need be.

I'm going through the usual analysis for the floor selection and had settled on using a moisture cured polyurethane or a high solids two-part epoxy. But due to the rough floor I hear that this might require a lot more product.

Diamond grinding would be a way to smooth the floor but I cannot do the diamond grinding myself or pay someone (out of budget).

Tiles would be another way to deal with this but I have not found anything that fits my price range that has reasonable quality. By tiles I mean the interlocking hard plastic or PVC type, not porcelain or vinyl stick-on.

So, I am hoping for practical suggestions on how I might pull this off, without diamond grinding, or going over my budget on materials, and using a roll-on type poly or epoxy finish. I plan to be here a long time so I want it to last or at least be able to recoat it.

Any ideas?

 

[RPH]

I used Ghostshield products. The outside was brushed. It did consume more product than the smooth inside. Be prepared to need more because it soaked it up like dry sand. Depending on what product you use I think double the amount would be a safer bet.

 

[Deude_Mann]

Double the amount... OK. Yep that would push me up into plastic tile flooring territory, getting closer to $2.50 - $3.00 sq. ft.. I'll have to give this some more thought.

 

[RPH]

I did 2700 sq.ft couple of years ago. I think it was about $600 for the materials. It was the cheapest option for a working shop at the time.

 

[ConCretin]

Just curious how you ended up with a broom finish on an interior slab. Personally, I'd spend my budget on grinding it smooth and use whatever is left on a decent sealer. I can't imagine trying to keep it swept clean and dealing with the abrasiveness. Just my two cents.

 

[egdede]

If OP densifies with the Ghostshield 4500, the floor will sweep up better than a smooth non-densified concrete floor. It is really incredible.

 

[GRivera]

Are you concerned with petroleum products staining the floor? If you are, an invisible sealer may not be up to the task. Otherwise they are very easy to apply and reasonably priced.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Just curious how you ended up with a broom finish on an interior slab. Personally, I'd spend my budget on grinding it smooth and use whatever is left on a decent sealer. I can't imagine trying to keep it swept clean and dealing with the abrasiveness. Just my two cents.

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[Deude_Mann]

If OP densifies with the Ghostshield 4500, the floor will sweep up better than a smooth non-densified concrete floor. It is really incredible.

So I looked into that product and it appears that it soaks into the concrete and is not really a coating. I do not understand the mechanics of how it would help.

 

[Deude_Mann]

Well after agonizing over this for a long time (like everyone does), pricing all the options, and considering my labor, I'm going with interlocking floor tiles, specifically the Bigfloors.com Coin-Deck GarageDeck tiles.

One nice thing about tiles is I can work on installation in very short intervals with no ill effects; that is advantageous for me for personal reasons. And my daughter can help without my wife worrying about chemical exposure, and she will worry whether it's a real concern or not.

 

[egdede]

Tiles are nice, and you are going to love your new floor. To answer your question a day late: If I understand correctly, the densifier actually penetrates the concrete, bonds with minerals in the concrete to make the concrete harder and stronger. The concrete doesn't dust off, and a broom glides over it nicely. I have dropped a loaded hand-truck hard on the the corner of a step without harm. Even harsh chemicals don't soak in immediately.

All of these benefits will come to you too when you put your floor down. I need to break out out my arc welder or cutting torch just for fun now and again, so no racedeck for me.

 

[Deude_Mann]

Got it with the densifier. So I suppose the thinking is the densifier would increase the strength of the concrete and keep the little peaks from the broom finish from busting off as easily. So there would be less concern about the coatings flaking off from concrete failure.

I'll be welding, cutting, and grinding from time to time so that will either happen outside or in a carefully prepared area that protects the floor.