Buffalo 18 drill press repair

[rsw686]

I've wanted a drill press for awhile and recently picked up a Buffalo 18 off Craigslist from a wood shop. It came with a 1/2HP 120V motor installed and 3/4HP 1140 rpm 3 phase motor that I was told the previous owner used at his metal shop. I did some reading and bought a Teco L510 VFD and installed the 3/4HP motor.

Side note these VFDs are amazing. I was disappointed at first as running at 20Hz I could feel the motor slow and want to stall when drilling wood at a decent pace. Once I figured out SLV mode and ran auto-tune I was amazed at the torque difference. Right now I have it on the second fasted pulley configured for 20-65Hz. I have a laser tachometer on order so I can actually determine the rpm range.

Now for the bad. My intentions for this drill press are mainly to drill metal. I chucked up a Dewalt 1/2" bit with pilot point that I use in my hand drill. As soon as the pilot point breaks through the metal, the drill press starts making louder noises and you can see the quill move back and forth ever so slightly. I realize this drill bit isn't perfect as you can see the end is out of round. Examining the quill more closely at full extension I can feel some side to side play with my hand. With the quill retracted there is no play that I can feel.

How do I go about adjusting this? I tried the set screw, but it and the two bolts are tight against the spacer. I have a dial indicator coming tomorrow so I can measure the run-out of the spindle and chuck. I did some searching for replacement bearings, but can't figure out where to buy them or how to find the correct ones. Additionally the belt pulleys slightly wobble, but I'm not sure that's a big concern.

I did have some time to clean up the metal with scotch brite pads. Long term once I get it fixed I plan to break it down and paint it. Any tips for removing the spring and quill?

 

[454ragtop]

Not 100% sure, but I'm thinking that spacer shouldn't be there. Looks to me like it was designed to use the middle set screw to hold it apart, no need for a spacer. Probably have to spend some time figuring where the play is coming from, bearings, or the quill bore adjustment.

 

[Davefr]

Side note these VFDs are amazing. I was disappointed at first as running at 20Hz I could feel the motor slow and want to stall when drilling wood at a decent pace. Once I figured out SLV mode and ran auto-tune I was amazed at the torque difference. Right now I have it on the second fasted pulley configured for 20-65Hz. I have a laser tachometer on order so I can actually determine the rpm range.

I can't help with the quill/bearing issues, but you don't really need a tachometer. You can program your L510 to display RPM vs frequency for a set pulley setting. Just PM me if you need help with this mode.

 

[larry_g]

Now for the bad. My intentions for this drill press are mainly to drill metal. I chucked up a Dewalt 1/2" bit with pilot point that I use in my hand drill. As soon as the pilot point breaks through the metal, the drill press starts making louder noises and you can see the quill move back and forth ever so slightly. I realize this drill bit isn't perfect as you can see the end is out of round. Examining the quill more closely at full extension I can feel some side to side play with my hand. With the quill retracted there is no play that I can feel.

How do I go about adjusting this? I tried the set screw, but it and the two bolts are tight against the spacer. I have a dial indicator coming tomorrow so I can measure the run-out of the spindle and chuck. I did some searching for replacement bearings, but can't figure out where to buy them or how to find the correct ones. Additionally the belt pulleys slightly wobble, but I'm not sure that's a big concern.

I did have some time to clean up the metal with scotch brite pads. Long term once I get it fixed I plan to break it down and paint it. Any tips for removing the spring and quill?

Good practice on any machine is to run thing as close and tight as possible. On an old machine like that the bore for the quill will wear bell mouthed so some wiggle is to be expected. If there is a spacer in the adjustment slot I would consider milling a few thousands off of it to allow the bore to close up a bit more. Do this after you have lived with it for awhile, got some quality bits, and learned to keep the quill retracted as much as possible. This means setting the table height as high as possible to get the job at hand done. Once you hole is started a bit of looseness in the quill when extended will not matter as much.

This is not a milling machine and the quill will be a bit looser. If you really want to restore this then you may have to bore and bush the casting and grind the quill for fit, or make a new over-sized quill.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rsw686]

I can't help with the quill/bearing issues, but you don't really need a tachometer. You can program your L510 to display RPM vs frequency for a set pulley setting. Just PM me if you need help with this mode.

I saw the setting for RPM, however I wasn't sure the pulley ratios to calculate what value to put in the setting. The tachometer I bought is handheld and cost $10. I figure I would use it initially to calibrate it.

 

[rsw686]

Good practice on any machine is to run thing as close and tight as possible. On an old machine like that the bore for the quill will wear bell mouthed so some wiggle is to be expected. If there is a spacer in the adjustment slot I would consider milling a few thousands off of it to allow the bore to close up a bit more. Do this after you have lived with it for awhile, got some quality bits, and learned to keep the quill retracted as much as possible.

I understand the machine wears as it gets old. You make a good point that I should be drilling with the quill almost fully retracted. Since the quill has 5" of travel it would be nice if I could tighten it up some. The test pieces were with the quill probably 1-2" down. I'm going to try removing the spacer just to see if it would even make a difference without binding the quill when its retracted. If so I might consider having a shop mill it for me.

 

[rsw686]

Not 100% sure, but I'm thinking that spacer shouldn't be there. Looks to me like it was designed to use the middle set screw to hold it apart, no need for a spacer. Probably have to spend some time figuring where the play is coming from, bearings, or the quill bore adjustment.

That spacer turned out to be a piece of wood. That can't be original so I removed it and was able to remove a bit more play. I'm happy with the result and was able to drill a few 1/2" holes through 3/16" steel.

Now the last issue is the chuck keeps falling out if the bit grabs onto the metal. Like when drilling at a slow RPM and it breaks through. Yes I retracted the chuck jaws and used a block of wood and hammer to seat it. It looks like the issue is the chuck taper is worn at the top. When holding it in the drill close to where it would seat if I turn the spindle forward it wants to push the chuck out. If I turn it backwards it holds confirming my suspicions.

It looks like I can buy arbor A0303 and just swap that part. How do I know which size wedges to purchase to remove it?

 

[Davefr]

I'd suggest you also inspect the socket to make sure it's clean/smooth and undamaged.

Are you sure the arbor taper is correct for the socket?

To remove the arbor from the chuck you normally press it out from inside the chuck. If you want to use wedges, they're usually matched to the jacobs taper of the chuck/arbor.

 

[rsw686]

I'd suggest you also inspect the socket to make sure it's clean/smooth and undamaged.

Are you sure the arbor taper is correct for the socket?

To remove the arbor from the chuck you normally press it out from inside the chuck. If you want to use wedges, they're usually matched to the jacobs taper of the chuck/arbor.

The arbor has A0303 stamped which is Morse Taper #3 and from what I've read the Buffalo 18 is the same. The taper seems to match well. Is there something I should be coating it will to help it friction fit better? I did look in the socket, but its hard to tell. I found a new A0303 arbor for $20 so I'm going to purchase that to see how it fits.

I did see a YouTube video last night showing that it is pressed out. The center hole in the inside of the chuck only fits a 1/4" bolt and my 20-ton press bends the bolt before the arbor pops out. I had the chuck resting on some 2" square tube. Am I supposed to disassemble part of the chuck?

 

[Davefr]

The arbor has A0303 stamped which is Morse Taper #3 and from what I've read the Buffalo 18 is the same. The taper seems to match well. Is there something I should be coating it will to help it friction fit better? I did look in the socket, but its hard to tell. I found a new A0303 arbor for $20 so I'm going to purchase that to see how it fits.

I did see a YouTube video last night showing that it is pressed out. The center hole in the inside of the chuck only fits a 1/4" bolt and my 20-ton press bends the bolt before the arbor pops out. I had the chuck resting on some 2" square tube. Am I supposed to disassemble part of the chuck?

No coating should be used to secure machine tapers. If they're undamaged and clean they should fit snugly. You might want to put the chuck/arbor in the freezer overnight and warm up the socket to give it a tighter press fit.

Jacobs chucks typically have a pretty small hole in the end. You can drill them out to a larger ID. That portion of the chuck is mild steel. Try 5/16" or maybe 3/8" so you won't bend what you're using to push out the arbor.

 

[Hoppychoppy]

Ive always just measured bearings with calipers and ordered them from Boca bearings. They are awesome quality and cheapish.

 

[TXNinAZ]

Reviving this old thread since I just bought a Buafflo 18 and have torn it down. Interestingly, mine also had a wood piece in the split of the front of the head. They must have put it there at the factory after customers kept cracking castings by cranking down too much on those adjustment screws.

That spacer turned out to be a piece of wood. That can't be original so I removed it and was able to remove a bit more play. I'm happy with the result and was able to drill a few 1/2" holes through 3/16" steel.

Now the last issue is the chuck keeps falling out if the bit grabs onto the metal. Like when drilling at a slow RPM and it breaks through. Yes I retracted the chuck jaws and used a block of wood and hammer to seat it. It looks like the issue is the chuck taper is worn at the top. When holding it in the drill close to where it would seat if I turn the spindle forward it wants to push the chuck out. If I turn it backwards it holds confirming my suspicions.

It looks like I can buy arbor A0303 and just swap that part. How do I know which size wedges to purchase to remove it?

 

[tombell572]

Buffalo D/P's are excellent beefy machines. A 1950's era Buffalo 15" bench drill was the first machine I bought in the early 70's and it served me well until I passed it along to one of my sons who was setting up his own shop out two years ago.

Tom B.