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Build An Engine Storage Stand:

drive em

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Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
66
There may come a time when you have an assembled engine ready, but the car may not be ready to accept the engine. You could leave the assembled engine on an engine stand, but if you are like me there are other engines waiting to be assembled. You need an engine storage stand that will allow you to bolt a complete assembled engine to it and be rolled somewhere for storage.



The engine storage stand I will be building is for a SBF (289,302,351W,351C,5.0) but the same principles apply to any engine. You will need an engine, or preferably a bare engine block to use as a jig to build the stand.



The first step is to cut and drill some 1" x 1" x .125" angle iron to bolt to the motor mount bosses on the block. The bosses are 7/16", but I drilled them to 1/2". You can now bolt the pieces of angle iron to the block:

aenginestand001.jpg


aenginestand002.jpg












The next are the rear uprights. They are made from 3/4" x 16 gauge square tubing. They will bolt to the outer most bellhousing bolts. They are also drilled with 1/2" holes. One of the uprights is 7/8" longer that the other. If building a stand for a different engine, the height of the upright will need to be determined so the oil pan will clear the ground, and the stand:

aenginestand003.jpg








The main framework is next. I used 14 gauge x 1" square tubing. The main rails are 22" long, the front cross piece is 11 3/4" long, and the back piece is 18" long. I used some scrap pieces that were not long enough, so I welded a few pieces together to get the lengths I needed. Square it all up and weld it up:

aenginestand004.jpg








The frame work is centered on the two rear uprights, and two front uprights made from 3/4" square are cut to 10 1/4" long. Everything is now tack welded on:

aenginestand005.jpg








I made a diagonal brace from 1/2" square tubing to keep everything square:


aenginestand006.jpg







Weld everything you can with the stand still bolted to the block so nothing will move around.



You can now weld on some 2" steel casters to the bottom of the stand. Stay away from the rubber casters because the rubber will fail under the weight of the engine. I got these at Home Depot:

aenginestand007.jpg


aenginestand008.jpg














A little paint, and it is ready for service:



aenginestand009.jpg
 
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bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
Messages
4,329
Location
Pasquotank, NC
Shopping carts are only free when stolen....

I have a stand just like the one you built I bought from my neighbor for $10. Makes the engine short enough to slide under a bench.
 

donny

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
8
Location
Arizona
simple was the key for me...got the motor back from the machine shop..car not ready...very simple, rusty, but functional stand...larger stand in photo is for motor and ******..sbc,bbc..muncie or T-350 trannys...smaller stand is just for motor..
photobucket-2636-1327438385418.jpg


rustystand.jpg
 

camarotoolman

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Mar 12, 2011
Messages
2,372
Location
cocoa Fl.
If you have to buy new sreel and casters, its probable cheaper to buy 1. we were going to made them and sell em, but couldn't compete with emports and Harbor freight
 
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OP
D

drive em

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Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
66
If you have to buy new sreel and casters, its probable cheaper to buy 1. we were going to made them and sell em, but couldn't compete with emports and Harbor freight

I have bought them from different places, and the casters are good for a one way trip, especially the rubber ones. The welding quality is also questionable as well as super thin tubing. There is a place for quality, because I sell them all the time.
 

Crusty Nut

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Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
475
Shopping carts are only free when stolen....

.

Just a heads up, not all carts are stolen. I got several when a local chain store replaced their whole fleet and posted the old ones for free on Craigslist. If you see me with one of my many things made from carts, don't assume I'm a thief.

Great job on the stand. Simple is best.
 

gsport

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Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
2,176
Location
Salem Oregon
i also made one similiar to yours, except instead of putting four wheels on it, i set it on a furniture dolly from HF... works fine
 

gsxrken

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
Location
just north of NYc
Thanks for the post! I’m picking up a SBF engine next week that I do not have to measure with, so I’m going to trust these dimensions. I do have a question if the OP is still around- what is the distance from the center of the motor Mount tube to the face of the block where the bell housing goes? In other words, where should I weld the motor Mount uprights?l
Thanks
 

gsxrken

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
Location
just north of NYc
Got tired of storing so I just made a stand that I can eat off.....:)

Nice! Is that where you can you give me a measurement?
A: the distance across the bLock from motor Mount to motor Mount
B: the length from the center of the motor Mount (or center of one of the Mount holes) to the bell housing face

Help a brother out!
 
Last edited:

493mike

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
148
Location
mid Michigan
I have at least 6 of these for big block Mopar engines.
Mike
 

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gsxrken

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
9
Location
just north of NYc
Got someone else to provide some good measurements and completed it.
As it turns out I needed smaller angle iron due to the shoulder on these ones in the pic contacting the block.
Was shipping the thing on an 18 hour drive so didn’t want any wood falling apart on me and crushing the $$ roadrace oil pan. I’m much better with metal than wood anyway! Fun project... just a tighter timeframe than I’d like and it would have been much easier with the block on hand.
 

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