build garage square or level?

[sluginxlt]

The foundation was poured seperatly with a key way and rebar every 2 feet to connect to slab. I ended up using 6" of 21aa gravel compacted with plate compactor

 

[sluginxlt]

 

[bczygan]

It looks like your plywood forms worked. Did you use any other form boards to get that straight edge? Were you able to pull all the plywood out as the concrete was placed?

You can use any method that you choose, to complete this structure. Hell, you could use pallets for the walls, cover them with hardware clothe and chicken wire and stucco it.

The better method is usually the more difficult and expensive one, especially when correcting less than wonderful installations.

So what's it gonna be?

Bill

 

[maxpower_hd]

x2 for the stem wall. But is sounds like it may be too late for that. I built mine with a slope in the floor too. But my footings and knee walls (as we call them here) were done first and the garage walls were built on top of those, which were level. The floor was poured inside the knee walls so it wouldn't matter how out of level it was. Around here we don't typically build garages on slabs, at least not that I have seen. It leaves no place for snow to gather without being right against the construction.

 

[maxpower_hd]

ps. I cannot see pictures on this CPU so I apologize if my post doesn't seem like I looked at the pics.

 

[Falcon67]

My shop is not always plumb nor level. Neither has been the last several houses we've lived in. One was 80 years old - doesn't seem to bother things much, except maybe the OCD owner. You get over it.

 

[sluginxlt]

Is it too late to form up a poured level wall around the edges. Assuming i would need to drill into slab to put some rebar?

 

[RossABQ]

If there is a building permit involved, any block or poured stem wall is going to change the height of the garage. Better check if the inspectors have a problem with that first.

 

[sluginxlt]

The city gave me the concrete permit separately. I was going to go submit my plans for building permit any day now so thats why im trying to figure out what to do about the slope before i turn in the plans

 

[2CWG]

I'll throw out a pic just to give folks an option to comment on:

From Fine Homebuilding 83, pp. 14 September 1, 1993

 

[myredracer]

Not sure where OP lives, but usually a foundation wall (or floor slab) needs to be a min. distance above the ground. Here that is 8". Is the floor slab maybe not high enough relative to the ground? Any code perimeter drain requirements?

The anchor bolts in corners is not good, as previously noted. Anchor bolts don't look tall enough? Do they extend down into the foundation wall below? New bolts can be installed by drilling the concrete and using epoxy cement. Doesn't look like the concrete guys know about framing. Improperly located anchor bolts are so annoying.

I have seen a situation like this dealt with by ripping a 2x4 (or 2x6) lengthwise to make a wedge shape and added to the topside of the bottom plate. Easy to do with a table saw. Check with the local AHJ tho.

I wouldn't pour additional concrete unless getting the concrete higher above the ground is needed. Forming the additional wall would be a lot of extra wall and expense. You would maybe need to drill into the floor slab/foundation for longer anchor bolts?

I'd want to tilt the wall up as it'd be a lot faster. Cutting studs individually to different lengths can be done. Easy to calculate but if the floor is not perfectly flat that could make it harder. I don't see why you couldn't use a double bottom plate and shim between them as needed using wood of the same species, but I'd check with the local AHJ. Anchor bolts would be too short though - maybe you could use extension/coupling nuts?

Definitely gotta have the walls plumb and square. Besides not looking right, could cause unforeseen issues like maybe with the garage door not operating properly. Can't see any issues with drywalling if the bottom slopes. It likely will need trimming anyway.

 

[kbs2244]

Most inspectors will check the studs for plumb.

 

[csp]

Is it too late to form up a poured level wall around the edges. Assuming i would need to drill into slab to put some rebar?

Not too late at all. That's why so many folks are suggesting that you do just that!

 

[sluginxlt]

The yard is on a slope and all the concrete is exposed atleast 6" besides for the side shown because i filled it back in with dirt when i geuss i shouldnt have. Even with the slop the front portion of slab is about 9" up from the ground because of the sloped yard. I was considering building up sill plates as you mentioned because obviously we are far from expets with concrete and would rather not have to mess with it if there is a reasonable alternative. I was just thinking if i have to go from 0 to almost 4" in the 30' span i would end up with some thin slivers of wood at the high side.

 

[TLCObsession]

In CA where there are lots of monolithic slabs, you just frame it level and plumb. Takes less time than this discussion. Lasers make it easy, but last time I did it, we set a chalk line at the low corner (if you have 3" of fall, set it at 90" to account for the double top plate and so that your sheet goods fit), marked the stud spacing on the bottom plate, numbered the locations and the studs, held them in place with a level to get them plumb and rubbed them on the line. Pull them down, lay it out on the floor and frame sheet the wall. Done.

As for the bottom being close to the ground in MI, you can use Hardi and it won't be an issue.

 

[Keel]

Re: build garage sqaure or level?

build a two foot stem wall so you will have lift height, also it will protect bottom of wall when you wash your car inside

yup you can level the stem wall and not have to cut a bunch of different height studs..

 

[lakeroadster]

...... just frame it level and plumb. Takes less time than this discussion.

Exactly. What the OP has isn't really a big deal what so ever.

I would simply use a good sill sealer and ground contact rated pressure treated (PT) sill plates (2x6) and then custom cut the studs so they are level on the top.

If you want additional sill plate height for weather / water protection you could always double or triple up on the PT sill plates.

Anchor bolts too short for multiple stacked sill plates? No big deal. Counter bore the upper sill plates with a wood bit at the anchor bolts. Then attach the other sill plates to each other with Truss Lock Screws.

When there's a will, there's a way! Git R Done

 

[Showkey]

Most inspectors will check the studs for plumb.

Where I have lived........if you want a out of plumb or square building the inspectors could care less.

 

[sluginxlt]

Where I have lived........if you want a out of plumb or square building the inspectors could care less.

Judging from all my inspections i dont think they care about anything. For my form and fill inspection i wasnt even fully finished with forms. Guy didnt even walk to about 20 ft from the area and asked did i compact it? Then he handed me the approval card

 

[pmiranda]

So it's up to you to build it right. If you have sufficient drainage I still don't see why not to put down a pressure-treated sill with the right sealer under it and build plumb and level from there up. How do you plan to deal with the corner bolts?

 

[RossABQ]

Assuming this isn't in a special kind of seismic or hurricane zone, just drill the sills to slip over the corner studs. They'll provide lateral restraint, nothing more.

 

[rharman]

I'd be pouring a stem wall or laying a few courses of block to level that slab out.

Me too.....

My first thought also. Concern I had was the integrity of the connection between the slab and stem wall. With advice from a *competent* engineer I'm sure it's feasible.

As others have mentioned, many benefits from a stem wall.

 

[rayra]

STOP

IGNORE ALL suggestions concerning how to do the adjustment in wood.

The only correct way to do this is to run a course of block and cut them to make up for the improperly poured slab.

Also drill the slab and epoxy in anchor bolts at 4'o.c., then grout the block cores solid. Install foam sill seal on top, drill your treated 2x6 sill plate for the anchor bolts and install. Then caulk the seam inside and out.

I would be asking the concrete guys to cover the cost too.

Bill

Silly winter-suffering northerners. We in the land of slabs and stick-built and earthquakes chortle at your weird ways.