Build Thread - 69 Bronco

[Mr.N]

Dana 44 front diff

Scott,

Can you weld? Or know a good welder?
If yes, get a 73-77 F150 Dana 44 and shorten to match the EB.
260 vs 297 is rather large, plus they are easier to find

If you are open to this, there are a couple people on this thread that can help.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I know the owner Randy who owns Driven 4x4 here in Phoenix I am sure he would have many parts you would need. I know there were a pair of bucket seats on showroom floor. They were white or parchment. I bought hubs and spindles for my 1966 Dana 44 from him. Just tell him I sent you!

Cool project & will be following along.


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[TimeWarpF100]

http://www.drivenautoparts.com/


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[PhantomEB]

1972
1969 351w with ‘85 heads for today’s fuel.
C6 shorty, NWF black box, twin stick 205
Radius armed 79 D60, rear 914(9” with 14 bolt outers, shafts and disc brakes) on 4link and coils. 42” Iroks on TMR diy bead locks .
21 gallon tank fabbed up by me due to 100” wb, front forward 4”, rear back the same, full width.

List to do is 670cfm truck avenger, corbeau seats and all the little **** like hydroboost brakes and ram assist steering.

 

[bulletpruf]

I did dual shocks on mine, and had similar positive experience with improved handling, however...

A better approach is to run just one shock that is valved properly for the vehicle.
There are a few options of adjustable/tune-able shocks that are not horribly expensive. Plus you only have to buy half as many.

I build my own shock mounts and used duff arms. Had to sell it though

Beautiful!

I ended up buying a used 3.5" Duff lift kit in Dallas that I need to go pick up. Came off an immaculate EB. Hope the shocks will work out for me.

 

[bulletpruf]

Scott,

Can you weld? Or know a good welder?
If yes, get a 73-77 F150 Dana 44 and shorten to match the EB.
260 vs 297 is rather large, plus they are easier to find

If you are open to this, there are a couple people on this thread that can help.

I can weld but I don't understand what you're saying on "260 vs. 297 is rather large." Can you explain?

I know the owner Randy who owns Driven 4x4 here in Phoenix I am sure he would have many parts you would need. I know there were a pair of bucket seats on showroom floor. They were white or parchment. I bought hubs and spindles for my 1966 Dana 44 from him. Just tell him I sent you!

Cool project & will be following along.

Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Glad to have you on board, Randy! Will be looking for some input on engine mods soon - I'm supposed to pick up an inexpensive (but high quality) 347 stroker kit next week. Am thinking aluminum heads, hydraulic roller, and EFI would work out nicely to finish that off.

1972
1969 351w with ‘85 heads for today’s fuel.
C6 shorty, NWF black box, twin stick 205
Radius armed 79 D60, rear 914(9” with 14 bolt outers, shafts and disc brakes) on 4link and coils. 42” Iroks on TMR diy bead locks .
21 gallon tank fabbed up by me due to 100” wb, front forward 4”, rear back the same, full width.

List to do is 670cfm truck avenger, corbeau seats and all the little **** like hydroboost brakes and ram assist steering.

Damn. That's impressive. Why a truck avenger instead of EFI? And can someone explain the deal on the twin stick 205 transfer case vs. the regular one?

 

[gnpenning]

The Duff's suspension you bought what is coming with it?

Twin sticking a tcase allows you to separate the front end from the rear end. For example you can have 2 low in the rear only, or have the front end pulling with the rear end not. This can be done with your D20 as well. Check out Jbfab's website, they are a vendor and frequently offer help on CB. www.jbfab.net

 

[brewchief]

I can weld but I don't understand what you're saying on "260 vs. 297 is rather large." Can you explain?







Glad to have you on board, Randy! Will be looking for some input on engine mods soon - I'm supposed to pick up an inexpensive (but high quality) 347 stroker kit next week. Am thinking aluminum heads, hydraulic roller, and EFI would work out nicely to finish that off.







Damn. That's impressive. Why a truck avenger instead of EFI? And can someone explain the deal on the twin stick 205 transfer case vs. the regular one?

I belive what Mr N is referring to is the front axle u joint size, Mr N wrote the book on the dana 44.


Duff kit should be good, they are good people so if you have questions don't be afraid to call them.

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[PhantomEB]

I just want to get this damn thing out on the trails. When the damn bank account is built up again after other **** paid off, then I will revisit the fuel system. It’s all SS braided line with a couple inches built in and all AN fittings for future upgrades.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I know the owner Randy who owns Driven 4x4 here in Phoenix I am sure he would have many parts you would need. I know there were a pair of bucket seats on showroom floor. They were white or parchment. I bought hubs and spindles for my 1966 Dana 44 from him. Just tell him I sent you!

Cool project & will be following along.

My neighbor is a good friend of Randy's, and always spoke highly of him. I've personally never been down to his shop.

 

[rattle_snake]

260 / 297 are front axle u-joint sizes. The bronco can with the smaller 260 whereas the F150s 44s had the larger 297. If your going to wheel it, run big tires or both, you want the 297 (+chromo axles).

I've done business this Randy at driven many times over last 15 years. Great guy.

 

[bulletpruf]

The Duff's suspension you bought what is coming with it?

Twin sticking a tcase allows you to separate the front end from the rear end. For example you can have 2 low in the rear only, or have the front end pulling with the rear end not. This can be done with your D20 as well. Check out Jbfab's website, they are a vendor and frequently offer help on CB. www.jbfab.net

I ended up getting a pile of parts, including the Duff's suspension. The Duff's 3.5" kit comes with front and rear springs, radius arms, shocks, u bolts.

I'm also getting P/S pump and brackets, complete rear brakes, etc, etc.

Thanks for the info on the twin stick; good piece of gear.

 

[bulletpruf]

I belive what Mr N is referring to is the front axle u joint size, Mr N wrote the book on the dana 44.

Duff kit should be good, they are good people so if you have questions don't be afraid to call them.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thanks. Guess I need to learn the Bronco-specific lingo.

I just want to get this damn thing out on the trails. When the damn bank account is built up again after other **** paid off, then I will revisit the fuel system. It’s all SS braided line with a couple inches built in and all AN fittings for future upgrades.

Understand comletely.

My neighbor is a good friend of Randy's, and always spoke highly of him. I've personally never been down to his shop.

Thanks. he certainly seems to have a great reputation.

260 / 297 are front axle u-joint sizes. The bronco can with the smaller 260 whereas the F150s 44s had the larger 297. If your going to wheel it, run big tires or both, you want the 297 (+chromo axles).

I've done business this Randy at driven many times over last 15 years. Great guy.

Understood. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Mr.N]

I belive what Mr N is referring to is the front axle u joint size, Mr N wrote the book on the dana 44.

Bingo.

Thanks Brew chief... it is a shame they took the site down.
at least it's listed as the first reference in the Wiki page still.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_44






.

 

[Mr.N]

Thanks. Guess I need to learn the Bronco-specific lingo.

Sign up on Pirate4x4 and hit the ford section.

 

[bored350]

Bingo.

Thanks Brew chief... it is a shame they took the site down.
at least it's listed as the first reference in the Wiki page still.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_44






.

This might help: https://web.archive.org/web/20170518212647/http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

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[gnpenning]

You might have hit the jackpot. Does it have the long radius arms??? Which shocks???

Which steering gear did you get and which pump?

Which rear brake set up did you get?

Do you still plan on doing mostly on road with the EB?

You are really moving along!!!

 

[bulletpruf]

Sign up on Pirate4x4 and hit the ford section.

I've been a member at Pirate for years. I started a build thread there, too. Lots of knowledgeable folks.

This might help: https://web.archive.org/web/20170518212647/http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll check it out.

You might have hit the jackpot. Does it have the long radius arms??? Which shocks???

Which steering gear did you get and which pump?

Which rear brake set up did you get?

Do you still plan on doing mostly on road with the EB?

You are really moving along!!!

Here are the pics. I don't need the axles, but that's part of the package deal. He still has to find the other two shocks.









I'm not really moving along, at least not in my opinion. If I was able to focus on this, it would be running and driving now. Have been focused on getting our house ready to move into (move today and tomorrow) and getting the garage set up. Then I have several cars in front of it that need some finishing touches.

 

[bulletpruf]

Picked up a 347 stroker kit today, along with a 302 block. Both came from a guy who has a few early Broncos. Stroker kit has the Eagle cast steel 3.400 crank, Eagle H-Beam 5.400 rods, and KB forged flat tops.

Crank is NIB, rods and pistons are lightly used. Not anywhere near the point where I'll need the stroker kit, but the price was right and it was local, so I pulled the trigger.

Not sure what year the block is. Anyone know how to ID these?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Picked up a 347 stroker kit today, along with a 302 block. Both came from a guy who has a few early Broncos. Stroker kit has the Eagle cast steel 3.400 crank, Eagle H-Beam 5.400 rods, and KB forged flat tops.

Crank is NIB, rods and pistons are lightly used. Not anywhere near the point where I'll need the stroker kit, but the price was right and it was local, so I pulled the trigger.

Not sure what year the block is. Anyone know how to ID these?

Always a date code on the blocks!

Also a casting number which will get you in ballpark.

Don't make too much HP as the blocks do not hold much past the 500 hp mark.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Looking again at pic it appears to be a block that had Hydraulic Roller Cam factory.

Around 1987 to 1994. They will hold a good amount of power with proper crank, rods n pistons

 

[bulletpruf]

Always a date code on the blocks!

Also a casting number which will get you in ballpark.

Don't make too much HP as the blocks do not hold much past the 500 hp mark.

Looking again at pic it appears to be a block that had Hydraulic Roller Cam factory.

Around 1987 to 1994. They will hold a good amount of power with proper crank, rods n pistons

Randy -

I did a bit more looking -- it's an E7TE block, which is indeed a "roller block." The three X's in the lifter valley are supposed to indicate that it's a roller block as well.

No chance in he11 that I'll approach 500 hp with this one. 400+ ft/lbs of torque would be nice, however. I'm also inclined to use the original block in the Bronco for the build. Otherwise, I'll have to figure out the oil pan/oil dipstick mismatch.

Thanks

Scott

 

[bluebolt]

If you have a good early Bronco pan use it and it's factory dipstick on the roller cam block. PLUG THE DIPSTICK HOLE ON THE DRIVERS SIDE ON THR ROLLER block with a small brass freeze plug. Easy peasy.

The original 6 quart early Bronco with passenger side dipstick is no longer reproduced as far as I can tell. They only have one sump and a single drain plug.

The replacement is a 79-95 Mustang 5.0 pan that has dual sumps and dual drain plugs. It is modified with a driver side oil dipstick.

Since your block already has the oil dipstick hole you could just get the later dual hump Mustang pan, pickup and dipstick. Some early Bronco guys prefer the steel 5.0 Explorer since it is single hump and single drain hole.

The dual sump Mustang pan front drain plug is right above the differential and is MESSY.

See if the guy has the oil pan from that engine.

I have the Explorer steel pans, pan rails, pickup and dipstick. Make sure everything matches!

 

[bluebolt]

Also where are your main caps?

Those ***'s mean nothing, non-roller blocks have had them too. Never have found a really good answer what they mean. Only guys at the casting plant probably know.

 

[bluebolt]

Scott,

Can you weld? Or know a good welder?
If yes, get a 73-77 F150 Dana 44 and shorten to match the EB.
260 vs 297 is rather large, plus they are easier to find

If you are open to this, there are a couple people on this thread that can help.

The famous Mr N! Read your Dana 44 website many times, sorry to hear it is gone.

 

[bulletpruf]

If you have a good early Bronco pan use it and it's factory dipstick on the roller cam block. PLUG THE DIPSTICK HOLE ON THE DRIVERS SIDE ON THR ROLLER block with a small brass freeze plug. Easy peasy.

The original 6 quart early Bronco with passenger side dipstick is no longer reproduced as far as I can tell. They only have one sump and a single drain plug.

The replacement is a 79-95 Mustang 5.0 pan that has dual sumps and dual drain plugs. It is modified with a driver side oil dipstick.

Since your block already has the oil dipstick hole you could just get the later dual hump Mustang pan, pickup and dipstick. Some early Bronco guys prefer the steel 5.0 Explorer since it is single hump and single drain hole.

The dual sump Mustang pan front drain plug is right above the differential and is MESSY.

See if the guy has the oil pan from that engine.

I have the Explorer steel pans, pan rails, pickup and dipstick. Make sure everything matches!

Thanks for the input. Very helpful.

Also where are your main caps?

Those ***'s mean nothing, non-roller blocks have had them too. Never have found a really good answer what they mean. Only guys at the casting plant probably know.

I have the main caps.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

My rebuilt NP435 transmission (4 sp with granny low) and rebuilt transfer case (stock Dana 20) showed up a few days ago. Man, those two together are HEAVY! Almost gave myself a hernia unloading from my Suburban.

Also got a pair of front seats and a rear seat - stock stuff.

Got some stock springs front and rear, too.

Still have to pick up the Duff's 2.5" lift kit in Dallas. Will do that on an upcoming road trip.

 

[bulletpruf]

Haven't touched the Bronco; in the middle of an unexpected rebuild on the TH400 in my 68 GTO convt.

Still trying to scrounge more parts, however - need a Dana 44 for the front, stock wheels, and a decent pair of doors.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I did the NP435/D20 a few years ago. Yes, they are heavy together.

I'm currently installing a Yukon zip-locker and 31 spline axles and a 23 gallon EFI tank.

 

[Benw455]

Love the project. I would love to find one myself.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I had a 75 for my first car. Threw alot of money at it, learned alot, lost a lot of hearing. Amazing I'm alive.

 

[bulletpruf]

I did the NP435/D20 a few years ago. Yes, they are heavy together.

I'm currently installing a Yukon zip-locker and 31 spline axles and a 23 gallon EFI tank.

What's a zip locker?

Love the project. I would love to find one myself.

They're not as expensive as you think if you don't mind a project. Early Bronco Classifieds group on Facebook often has reasonably priced projects.

I had a 75 for my first car. Threw alot of money at it, learned alot, lost a lot of hearing. Amazing I'm alive.

Ok, so how did you lose your hearing in an early Bronco?

 

[WoodsTruck]

Yukon Zip Locker - knock off of an ARB air locker. I think they followed the ARB patent expiring.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Ok, so how did you lose your hearing in an early Bronco?

No top, loud pipes, 16 years old.

 

[bulletpruf]

No wrenching yet, but am scrounging more parts. Have to pick up a few bumpers and a spare tire carrier in a week or so.

Also need to make a road trip to pick up a pair of doors (not cheap! but very nice condition), some stock wheels, a windshield frame, stock roll bar, etc.

Picked up a dual exhaust setup locally. Guy had installed it on his EB but wife said it was too loud, so he took it off after a weekend of having it on. Has a pair of glasspacks, so it will have that old school rumble.

Anyone have any seat brackets? I sourced some original seats but they didn't come with brackets.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[gnpenning]

No seat brackets. Looking forward to updates.

Picked this up about a month ago. 66 U13 someone put a top and doors on. Luckily they kept the inserts and bulkhead. Wish they would have had the hubcaps...

 

[bulletpruf]

No seat brackets. Looking forward to updates.

Picked this up about a month ago. 66 U13 someone put a top and doors on. Luckily they kept the inserts and bulkhead. Wish they would have had the hubcaps...

Sweet find! Congrats! Is it an early or late build? 6 cylinder, right?

 

[gnpenning]

Early September 65 build. One of the Bud bodies. Has some of the early only items, but also missing a few....

This picture is someone else's, but the color is the same as what mine looked like new and someday it will look like this again.

Yes to the 6cyl. Looking forward to driving it this summer

 

[bulletpruf]

Scored a SWEET pair of doors this past weekend. Also picked up a few bumpers and a spare tire carrier.

 

[bulletpruf]

Drove to Houston area to get a really nice hood a few days ago. Picked up a power brake booster/master and power steering pump with brackets and pulleys while I was there.

Power steering boxes are difficult to find; if anyone has a spare, can you let me know?