Build Thread - 69 Bronco

[TimeWarpF100]

Drove to Houston area to get a really nice hood a few days ago. Picked up a power brake booster/master and power steering pump with brackets and pulleys while I was there.

Power steering boxes are difficult to find; if anyone has a spare, can you let me know?

For sure subscribed! looking forward to seeing progress! Not a single part one cannot buy for them now.

 

[bulletpruf]

For sure subscribed! looking forward to seeing progress! Not a single part one cannot buy for them now.

Lots of aftermarket support, Randy, but there are a few things that are difficult to source. I'm also looking for a factory fuel pump - V8 with vacuum wipers - if anyone has one or knows where I can find one, please let me know.

Thanks

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Check these guys out. Not the cheapest, but good guys.

http://www.drivenautoparts.com/

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Lots of aftermarket support, Randy, but there are a few things that are difficult to source. I'm also looking for a factory fuel pump - V8 with vacuum wipers - if anyone has one or knows where I can find one, please let me know.

Thanks

https://www.ebay.com/itm/66-69-Ford...m-Fuel-Pump-289-1966-1969-68-67-/143421160086

Will you have proper vacuum with a stroker engine? Why not convert to 12 v wipers?

 

[bulletpruf]

Check these guys out. Not the cheapest, but good guys.

http://www.drivenautoparts.com/

Ok, I'll check with them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/66-69-Ford...m-Fuel-Pump-289-1966-1969-68-67-/143421160086

Will you have proper vacuum with a stroker engine? Why not convert to 12 v wipers?

Randy - I'm going to run stock vacuum wipers for now. If I don't like them, I may swap on down the line.

I'll have plenty of vacuum (not going to run a rowdy camshaft) but if the fuel pump is producing vacuum will cam specs matter?

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Finally getting some work done on this one; had several significant Bronco-related detours. I bought a rough '72, got it running and sold it. Bought a '67 roller. Sold it. Bought a '66 frame. Sold it. Bought a pile of '69 parts, including a 302. Bought a '68 project. Either keeping this one or the '68.

Anyway, I pulled the '69 out of the garage and into the driveway where I have room to work on it.

Since it has been sitting for maybe 20 years, I decided to be deliberate about the startup, in case it was rusty or stuck/seized.

-Sprayed Kroil and Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders.

-Valve covers off.

-Squirted MMO on the valvetrain, focusing on valves/valve guides.

-Did an oil change.

-Pulled distributor and primed oil pump.

-Confirmed oil was getting to the top of the engine.

-Spun engine over manually with socket on balancer bolt - very easy.

-Spun over with starter, confirmed all valves open and close. This also helped get the remaining MMO out of the cylinders.

-Valve covers back on.

-Cleaned and set points and reinstalled distributor.

-Verified spark.

-Primed carburetor.

-Hooked up boat gas can (with bulb in line to squeeze to deliver fuel) directly to carburetor. NOTE: normally would hook to fuel pump, but timing cover is broken where fuel pump mounts.

-Hotwired ignition - ran wire from positive terminal of battery to positive post on coil.

-Fired it up! Ran fine. Ran for about 2 minutes.

-Compression test while still warm - all at 119-132 psi, so about a 10% spread. Not perfect, but acceptable.

Will probably pull fuel tanks today and work on cleaning them out. Have new filler hoses and sending units on the way.

Have a bunch of brake parts on order - keeping 4 wheel manual drums, but will replace master cylinder, wheel cylinders, all soft lines, shoes, and drums. Got a hardware kit, too. E-brake cables will probably need to be replaced as well. Haven't decided on replacing H-block.

Will work on drivetrain soon, too. Figure I might as well replace axle bearings and seals while I have the rear brakes apart. Not decided yet on new pinion seal and pinion nut.

Thinking 33x12.50x15's are the way to go with this one, but I need to replenish my money tree first.

 

[slowtwitch73]

It would be pretty cool to do a stretch Bronco like a CJ8/Scrambler.

Can't believe the money these things command... like a lot of other similar vintage vehicles I guess.

 

[bulletpruf]

It would be pretty cool to do a stretch Bronco like a CJ8/Scrambler.

Can't believe the money these things command... like a lot of other similar vintage vehicles I guess.

The folks who build rock crawling Broncos modify the wheelbase and I've seen a 4 door early Bronco, too, but stock dimensions are fine by me.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Do you still need the fuel pump?

I did a search on parts for my N700 Crew Cab 330HD and it was unreal how many parts I was able to find pretty reasonable. I ended up with 3 NOS fuel pumps, 2 NOS waterpumps as there were 2 versions, NOS carb kit, wheel cylinders and more. I even found a Right Front N only NOS door weatherstrip. Plus a NOS booster seal kit.

 

[bulletpruf]

Do you still need the fuel pump?

I did a search on parts for my N700 Crew Cab 330HD and it was unreal how many parts I was able to find pretty reasonable. I ended up with 3 NOS fuel pumps, 2 NOS waterpumps as there were 2 versions, NOS carb kit, wheel cylinders and more. I even found a Right Front N only NOS door weatherstrip. Plus a NOS booster seal kit.

Randy - If you have a spare with provisions for vacuum wipers, please let me know. It had a generic pump on it, but I plan to keep vacuum wipers.

Crazy that you can still find NOS parts for your N700 Crew Cab!!! How do you find this stuff? Is there some way to search dealers nationwide?

 

[bulletpruf]

Working on fuel system today. Rear tank had a hole in the bottom, so I cut it apart so it would fit in the recycling bin. Found a huge mouse nest inside. Blasted and painted the skid plate and tank strap; will need to source a new tank for it from Wild Horses.

Front tank is good and not leaking. Drained out the turpentine and cleaned it. Blasted and painted the skid plate. Have a new sending unit and hoses on the way from WH.

 

[TriumphFan]

33" tires and drum brakes are a bad combination. My disc brakes are upgraded from stock but I still "plan" my stops with 33 tires.

 

[bulletpruf]

33" tires and drum brakes are a bad combination. My disc brakes are upgraded from stock but I still "plan" my stops with 33 tires.

I'm a fan of drum brakes, and I think drums in good condition and adjusted correctly work just as well as disc brakes of the same era. They obviously can't compete with oversize disc brakes with the latest in pad technology.

Having said that, the 33" tires will certainly impact stopping distance, and I'll need to allow for more room to stop.

 

[larry_g]

I'm a fan of drum brakes, and I think drums in good condition and adjusted correctly work just as well as disc brakes of the same era. They obviously can't compete with oversize disc brakes with the latest in pad technology.

Having said that, the 33" tires will certainly impact stopping distance, and I'll need to allow for more room to stop.

Just a couple of tidbits I learned long ago;

Back in the day I had some hot cars with drum brakes. The local brake shop suggested that I get some bendix F80 linings, (don't quote the number this was 40 years ago) and use secondary linings on both shoes. The F80 linings were soft but would stop much better than regular linings. They would wear quickly but worked very well.

Another variable that you have is selecting wheel cylinders of different bore size. The 9" that I installed on my hotrod had 3 different bore sizes for that RE depending on the car it was installed in originally.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[WoodsTruck]

I'm still running 4 drums on my EB but built my own power booster using a larger diameter booster from an '80's Mustang. I only run 31's but would think this setup would stop 33's reasonably well.

 

[TriumphFan]

I've driven a Bronco with 33" and drum brakes. Pretty frightening but who is to say they were maintained properly? That being said the last two years of the Early Bronco were finally given power disc brakes and are generally considered the best of the breed.

 

[bulletpruf]

Just a couple of tidbits I learned long ago;

Back in the day I had some hot cars with drum brakes. The local brake shop suggested that I get some bendix F80 linings, (don't quote the number this was 40 years ago) and use secondary linings on both shoes. The F80 linings were soft but would stop much better than regular linings. They would wear quickly but worked very well.

Another variable that you have is selecting wheel cylinders of different bore size. The 9" that I installed on my hotrod had 3 different bore sizes for that RE depending on the car it was installed in originally.

lg
no neat sig line

Good info. Thanks

I'm still running 4 drums on my EB but built my own power booster using a larger diameter booster from an '80's Mustang. I only run 31's but would think this setup would stop 33's reasonably well.

I've got a few power brake boosters in the garage that came from other EB's, but I'll at least start out with manual drums on this one.

I've driven a Bronco with 33" and drum brakes. Pretty frightening but who is to say they were maintained properly? That being said the last two years of the Early Bronco were finally given power disc brakes and are generally considered the best of the breed.

I have more than enough in good used parts to completely swap out the brakes on this one, but I sourced new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and hardware kits. I'll take the time to adjust them properly once installed.

Thanks

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Randy - If you have a spare with provisions for vacuum wipers, please let me know. It had a generic pump on it, but I plan to keep vacuum wipers.

Crazy that you can still find NOS parts for your N700 Crew Cab!!! How do you find this stuff? Is there some way to search dealers nationwide?

Crazy how much stuff I found! Already have another huge list of parts currently avail but just not the funds avail at least until I can get the truck home.

From what I see for sure 6 had vacuum wipers early on but not sure if 6 and 8 had them in 1969?

I have ford parts books and illustrations on my PC along with new microfilm and microfilm reader up in the attic I use to look up parts then go to my NOS parts vendors and search for whats needed. Amazing if one digs what a person can still find.

As far as drum brakes like you said if fresh and good shape and properly adjusted especially with booster they do a pretty good job. Even when they first came out with disc brakes they were so small not much of a improvement although probably less fading when worked hard. If one looks at surface area of drums vs discs . . .

 

[bulletpruf]

Crazy how much stuff I found! Already have another huge list of parts currently avail but just not the funds avail at least until I can get the truck home.

From what I see for sure 6 had vacuum wipers early on but not sure if 6 and 8 had them in 1969?

I have ford parts books and illustrations on my PC along with new microfilm and microfilm reader up in the attic I use to look up parts then go to my NOS parts vendors and search for whats needed. Amazing if one digs what a person can still find.

As far as drum brakes like you said if fresh and good shape and properly adjusted especially with booster they do a pretty good job. Even when they first came out with disc brakes they were so small not much of a improvement although probably less fading when worked hard. If one looks at surface area of drums vs discs . . .

Randy -

Electric wipers were a mid-year switch in 1969. This truck was a November 1968 build, but I'm not exactly sure what the cutoff was.

When worked hard disc brakes definitely outperform drums because of fade. Disc brakes are better in the rain, too. But I'm still good with drums. I have 4 wheel manual drums on my 428 powered 66 Fairlane GT convertible, and both of my Broncos are still sporting 4 wheel drums, although the 68 does have a booster.

Sounds like you have a great system for scrounging NOS parts! Please let me know if you run across an NOS fuel pump!!! That's one of the few parts that's not reproduced for these trucks.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[csp]

use secondary linings on both shoes.

Oddly enough I recently purchased new shoes for my '73 CJ5 and the new set came with secondaries only.

 

[bulletpruf]

Making a little progress before and after work. Have been blasting/wire wheeling/cleaning fuel tank hardware, straps, and skid plates. Ordered a new rear tank today from Wild Horses 4x4. Should have the auxiliary tank ready to go back in today -- it's cleaned out, new filler and vent hoses, new sending unit, etc.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Making a little progress before and after work. Have been blasting/wire wheeling/cleaning fuel tank hardware, straps, and skid plates. Ordered a new rear tank today from Wild Horses 4x4. Should have the auxiliary tank ready to go back in today -- it's cleaned out, new filler and vent hoses, new sending unit, etc.

How about some more visual? more photo's would be nice

 

[bulletpruf]

How about some more visual? more photo's would be nice

Sure thing. Give me a bit and I'll get some posted.

One thing that's odd - I have a 3 row crank pulley on a 302 out of another '69 Bronco that's sitting on an engine stand in my garage. The 302 in the '69 Bronco that I'm working on has a 4 row crank pulley.

Broncos didn't get P/S until something like 1972, so I think they both should have single groove pulleys unless they had smog pumps and the pump needed its own belt.

While I don't know the history of the Broncos and engines from Day 1, both engines appear to be correct 1969 Bronco engines, given valve covers, carburetors, oil pans, etc.

Ford wouldn't have put a 3 or 4 row crank pulley on one of these, right?

Pics are of the 3 row. I couldn't find casting number on it, but the balancer was correct for a 1969 302.

 

[bulletpruf]

Also trying to figure out wheels and tires. I have stock wheels on it, so either 5.5" or 6" wide. I'd like to blast and paint these and put on something that will fill the wheelwells. Maybe a 31 x 10.50 x 15. That should fit on a 5.5" or 6", but just barely.

I think 33 x 12.50 x 15 will fit fine, too, since the rear wheelwells are cut, but then I'd definitely have to source some 15 x 8 wheels.

 

[TriumphFan]

I gotta say, uncut Broncos with the stock wheels look pretty sharp.

 

[bulletpruf]

I gotta say, uncut Broncos with the stock wheels look pretty sharp.

Agreed. But mine is cut already and no plan to put new quarters on it anytime soon.

I do have some fiberglass flares that I may end up using on it (I would do front and rear) but first I need to straighten out some sheetmetal.

 

[bulletpruf]

How about some more visual? more photo's would be nice

Spent a little time today on the fuel system.

I noticed when I dropped the tanks that there was a bit of minor surface rust here and there, so I spent a few minutes wire wheeling those areas and then hitting them with some primer and then semi-gloss black paint. Just wanted to make sure nothing was getting any worse.

The stock 8 gallon auxiliary tank cleaned up fairly well. I stripped the undercoating and paint off the skid plate and straps and then did a bit of hammer and dolly work on the skid plate to straighten it out a bit. Primed and painted everything and the skid plate got some undercoating, too.

New sending unit, tank j-hooks/hardware, and filler hose from WildHorses4x4.com. I'll need to order a tank selector valve from them; wasn't able to save the one on the truck.

Went back together today without any issues.

I'll be out of town this weekend but I should be able to do some wrenching Sunday evening and Monday.

 

[WoodsTruck]

How is the inside of the main tank? I had to replace mine as it was rusty and plugged my EFI.

 

[TriumphFan]

Agreed. But mine is cut already and no plan to put new quarters on it anytime soon.

I do have some fiberglass flares that I may end up using on it (I would do front and rear) but first I need to straighten out some sheetmetal.

The front is uncut and the rears are in pretty bad shape. What's with the holes along the top rear?

 

[bulletpruf]

How is the inside of the main tank? I had to replace mine as it was rusty and plugged my EFI.

The inside of the main tank was gorgeous! But it had a hole on a seam so I junked it.

I cut it up to put it in the recycling bin and saw that the hole was caused by an enormous mouse nest - mouse pee is quite corrosive. It sat without a gas cap for years so it was empty and available. It’s too bad because the inside of the tank was otherwise immaculate.

I have a new rear tank on order from Wild Horses 4x4.

 

[bulletpruf]

The front is uncut and the rears are in pretty bad shape. What's with the holes along the top rear?

This was a hunting truck. The PO had a kennel in the back for his hunting dogs. The holes were for ventilation.

 

[bulletpruf]

Forgive me brothers, for I have sinned.

Yesterday I purchased a Quadrajet (gasp!) carburetor to put on my Ford. In my defense, I'm ready to upgrade to a 4bbl, and the offerings I had in the garage (600 cfm Holley and 600 cfm Edelbrock) both needed rebuilds. Besides, neither of these are very good when the vehicle isn't on level ground.

After doing a bit of research and discussing with my friend Cliff Ruggles (one of the true "good guys" in the car hobby) I decided that a '76 - '80 or so Shivverlay version (with side inlet for fuel instead of front inlet) with electric choke is what I needed, so I found a clean looking core on eBay.

Should be here in a few days; will disassemble and then place an order with Cliff for a rebuild kit and other bits.

 

[gnpenning]

Duplicate post

 

[gnpenning]

Qjet is anything but a sin. Simple, reliable carb that works well on angles just like the original 2100 series and 4100 series from Ford. Both manufacturers hit it out of the park with these carbs for on and off road use. Many carbs work great on road, it's the off road part that they fail miserably on. People that knock them generally have no clue but think they do.

Don't know which intake you are using, but have you got an adapter coming and have a plan for a throttle cable.

 

[bulletpruf]

Qjet is anything but a sin. Simple, reliable carb that works well on angles just like the original 2100 series and 4100 series from Ford. Both manufacturers hit it out of the park with these carbs for on and off road use. Many carbs work great on road, it's the off road part that they fail miserably on. People that knock them generally have no clue but think they do.

Don't know which intake you are using, but have you got an adapter coming and have a plan for a throttle cable.

Yeah, I've had good luck with Q-jets in the past. Most recently had one on a Pure Stock Drags built Ram Air IV 400 in my 70 GTO.

I'll run an adapter; likely going with an Edelbrock Performer dual plane. There are a few discontinued intakes that used a spreadbore pattern for a SBF - Holley Street Dominator and maybe an Offenhauser? I've never seen one, and I'm fine with running an adapter.

EDIT: apparently you can still get an Offy intake for a q-jet, but they're $420 and won't ship until August. https://www.summitracing.com/search...1978+carburetor-mounting:4-barrel-spread-bore

Might have to use some duct tape and baling wire on the throttle, but I should be able to make it work.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Looking for some dog dish hubcaps - preferably 60's - 70's vintage with some patina - if anyone knows where to find some.

EDIT: Some folks are using mid-60's Galaxie poverty caps and cutting a hole in the center for the fronts.

 

[bradpac]

Keep us posted how the quadrajet turns out. My friend has a 1978 Chevy truck that he's had since high school. It was stock, but now hot rodded and he's missing that Qjet sound and wants another.

As for dog dishes, I know a guy up north of Austin who does quite a few Ford truck parts, I'll see if he has an Bronco caps and let you know.

 

[bulletpruf]

Q-jets have a nice moan when you get into the secondaries, don't they?

Please let me know on the dog dishes north of Austin!

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Made a bit of progress after work today. Pulled off the rear tank hardware (the bits that bolt to the frame), cut off the exhaust pipe (kinked until it was nearly closed), cleaned the mud and crud off the underside (area that's hidden when the rear tank is installed), and removed the rear shocks.

Rear shocks are some kind of funky coil-over deals - standard appearing shock with a coil spring on the outside. Maybe the needed the extra load carrying capacity with the dogs and kennel in the back and the seats up top. The shocks actually did add some height, too -- it settled almost a full inch after I removed them.

I'll clean and paint the original tank hardware before installing it. There's also some very minor surface rust that I'll sand and paint before installing the tank.

 

[TriumphFan]

The Q-jet was the carb of choice for off-road work before FI became commonplace. I toyed with one for a while but didn't like the funky adapter so abandoned that idea... Currently running a small Holley Truck Avenger that I am happy with.

Looking for some dog dish hubcaps - preferably 60's - 70's vintage with some patina - if anyone knows where to find some.

EDIT: Some folks are using mid-60's Galaxie poverty caps and cutting a hole in the center for the fronts.

There's a thread going about those on Classic Broncos