Just read the Hoist post, and have had this idea rolling around in my mind for some time. I want to make an elevator in my pole barn going to the loft. I have a hole in the floor for steps (ladder, never built the steps) I also have an electric reduction with a chain gear. It came out of a truck that was setup to certify scales and I assume it was used to move heavy weights in and out of the truck. At one time the box had a heavy I-Beam attatched and sticking out. Anyway I'm sure it will be strong enough for anything I would want in the loft. Easy enough to mount and build a platform but I need a way to guide the platform up and down. Any ideas? Pipes in the corners would be easy enough but what could I use to roll on them?
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Build Your Own Elevator?
- Thread starter RonRock
- Start date
Hook on the end of pole, guide things up manually.
Put the pipes on each corner of the box and bend the top to the center as a lifting point, then frame the hole above with something smooth and slick so that as it goes up the pipes orient the box.
Put the pipes on each corner of the box and bend the top to the center as a lifting point, then frame the hole above with something smooth and slick so that as it goes up the pipes orient the box.
Thanks, My idea was to have the pipes in the corners of the hole in the floor of the loft, have them stationary so that the platform could roll up and down using the pipes as a guide. The platform would simply be a flat "Floor" that I could put items on.
russlaferrera
Well-known member
Use pipe the next size up from your guide pipe. Weld a bracket from the pipe to attach to the floor. The slop between the pipes will allow the platform to slide up/down. If you think it will bind add some plastic pipe in between the two.
The problem I think is more a question of twist, than alignment which is going to be centered pretty well on the hoisting point. Make the hole and platform round and twist doesn't matter, and minor alignment issues could be handled with something small right at the edge of the hole to guide the platform and inch or two this way or that if the load is unbalanced at bit or something.
Franz©
Banned
Pipes make lousey linear bearings, and on any 4 post configuration alignment must remain perfect.
The easiest way is to build a platform with A frames on each side. A T post must be centered on each A frame, and rollers attached to the A frame that ride the T post in a manner similar to a garage door track. 4 rollers per A frame, one set top and one set at the bottom. The T posts will need to extend far enough above the upper floor to accomodate the frame.
Lifting force must be applied to the platform via a gimbal attached to the top of both A frames.
If the platform will ever encounter an unbalanced load, top & bottom cam follower type rollers need to be attached to the top & bottom of the A frame to prevent crabbing of the framework.
Another method is to replecate the mechanism of the old sidewalk elevators which employed a cable and multiple sheaves as well as a pit to provide room for the sheaves and cable.
The easiest way is to build a platform with A frames on each side. A T post must be centered on each A frame, and rollers attached to the A frame that ride the T post in a manner similar to a garage door track. 4 rollers per A frame, one set top and one set at the bottom. The T posts will need to extend far enough above the upper floor to accomodate the frame.
Lifting force must be applied to the platform via a gimbal attached to the top of both A frames.
If the platform will ever encounter an unbalanced load, top & bottom cam follower type rollers need to be attached to the top & bottom of the A frame to prevent crabbing of the framework.
Another method is to replecate the mechanism of the old sidewalk elevators which employed a cable and multiple sheaves as well as a pit to provide room for the sheaves and cable.
Gus_Mahn
Well-known member
What about using a hydraulic pump and a fork truck mast. I have a buddy in the starting stages of this project. He paid about $300 for the used mast.
IanF
Well-known member
Just don't ever call it an elavator.
That word means all kinds of inspections.
Call it a "hoist platform"
+1
Or a "material lift"
A good design will depend a bit on what you plan to lift, how often you plan to lift it and the general structure of the loft area.
A possibly easier solution might be to just position a hoist above the opening, and then build a drop-in "filler" section to fill in the opening. Remove the filler, hoist up the object, drop the filler back in place, lower object onto the filler and then move to final "aging" spot.
The filler could be a pair of top-opening "doors" which would be pretty easy to open... maybe even with some counter-weights, depending on if you can lift the object high enough to clear the door swing.
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What about using a hydraulic pump and a fork truck mast. I have a buddy in the starting stages of this project. He paid about $300 for the used mast.
Good idea. In fact that is my alternate plan. It seems like that would be easy to do. The difficult part would be an Electric over Hydraulic pump that would power it and not be too expensive.
I sense project creep, how to build a nice elevator is different from how to put some stuff in the loft.
Ebay sells the motor/hydraulic units new for $499.
Do you really want an elevator style with some structure permanently on the ground floor all the way up to the loft? If so I would stick with the known design of dumbwaiter, why reinvent the wheel.
I like my ground floor open to any use I want, and would keep the lift to a simple hoist that drops down from the loft with a pallet on a wench cable or something.
Ebay sells the motor/hydraulic units new for $499.
Do you really want an elevator style with some structure permanently on the ground floor all the way up to the loft? If so I would stick with the known design of dumbwaiter, why reinvent the wheel.
I like my ground floor open to any use I want, and would keep the lift to a simple hoist that drops down from the loft with a pallet on a wench cable or something.
Franz©
Banned
The SECRET word is "reciprocator"
The words elevator and dumb waiter key investigations and higher rates in the insurance world. Since reciprocators are used in industrial situations to lift & lower loads, the word reciprocator is not in the database for homeowner policys. No word = no charge
BTW, Reciprocators do NOT have controls on the lifting platform.
Forklift masts work well if you have the space to locate the mast to one side or the other of the platform. Having the mast on the front or back of the platform becomes a PITA. A mast from a truck going to scrap ain't worth more than $100- to a used forklift dealer. Tell him you want to put it on a farm tractor or he won't sell it.
The words elevator and dumb waiter key investigations and higher rates in the insurance world. Since reciprocators are used in industrial situations to lift & lower loads, the word reciprocator is not in the database for homeowner policys. No word = no charge
BTW, Reciprocators do NOT have controls on the lifting platform.
Forklift masts work well if you have the space to locate the mast to one side or the other of the platform. Having the mast on the front or back of the platform becomes a PITA. A mast from a truck going to scrap ain't worth more than $100- to a used forklift dealer. Tell him you want to put it on a farm tractor or he won't sell it.
mike944
Well-known member
"Vertical Reciprocating Conveyor"
http://www.cisco-eagle.com/systems/conveyors/Vertical Reciprocating Conveyors/Index.htm
I pulled up ANSI B20.1 and got the following definitions, regarding what defines a VRC.
conveyor: a horizontal, inclined, or vertical device for
moving or transporting bulk material, packages, or
objects in a path predetermined by the design of the
device and having points of loading and discharge, fixed
or selective. Included are skip hoists and vertical reciprocating
and inclined reciprocating conveyors. Typical
exceptions are those devices known as industrial trucks,
tractors, trailers, tiering machines (except pallet load
tierers), cranes, hoists, power shovels, power scoops,
bucket drag lines, trenchers, platform elevators designed
to carry passengers or an operator, manlifts, moving walks,
moving stairways (escalators), highway or railway
vehicles, cableways, tramways, dumbwaiters, pneumatic
conveyors, robots, or integral machine transfer
devices.
conveyor, vertical reciprocating: a reciprocating power- or
gravity-actuated unit (not designed to carry passengers
or an operator) that receives objects on a carrier and
transmits these objects vertically between two or more
levels.
They then go into various safety standards regarding guarding, and anti-runaway devices, interlock doors, as well as limit switches.
From reading the rest of B20.1, it seems like the major differenticator between an elevator and a VRC is "not designed to carry people", and there are no controls to operate the VRC inside the carriage. They are not specific about why a dumbwaiter doesn't qualify, but they do say dumbwaiters are excluded.
http://www.cisco-eagle.com/systems/conveyors/Vertical Reciprocating Conveyors/Index.htm
I pulled up ANSI B20.1 and got the following definitions, regarding what defines a VRC.
conveyor: a horizontal, inclined, or vertical device for
moving or transporting bulk material, packages, or
objects in a path predetermined by the design of the
device and having points of loading and discharge, fixed
or selective. Included are skip hoists and vertical reciprocating
and inclined reciprocating conveyors. Typical
exceptions are those devices known as industrial trucks,
tractors, trailers, tiering machines (except pallet load
tierers), cranes, hoists, power shovels, power scoops,
bucket drag lines, trenchers, platform elevators designed
to carry passengers or an operator, manlifts, moving walks,
moving stairways (escalators), highway or railway
vehicles, cableways, tramways, dumbwaiters, pneumatic
conveyors, robots, or integral machine transfer
devices.
conveyor, vertical reciprocating: a reciprocating power- or
gravity-actuated unit (not designed to carry passengers
or an operator) that receives objects on a carrier and
transmits these objects vertically between two or more
levels.
They then go into various safety standards regarding guarding, and anti-runaway devices, interlock doors, as well as limit switches.
From reading the rest of B20.1, it seems like the major differenticator between an elevator and a VRC is "not designed to carry people", and there are no controls to operate the VRC inside the carriage. They are not specific about why a dumbwaiter doesn't qualify, but they do say dumbwaiters are excluded.
I'm impressed with all of the knowledge expressed here. Although I think you have gotten somewhat offtrack. Isn't this "GarageJournal"? I assumed that we would all have something in common i.e.GARAGE. This is not something expected to be inspected, following industry standards. Simply a way for me to move heavy stuff to the loft of my barn.
......I like my ground floor open to any use I want, and would keep the lift to a simple hoist that drops down from the loft with a pallet on a wench cable or something.
That is pretty much how I did mine. I used a Harbor Freight 110V electric winch bolted a bracket on the floor upstairs. The cable goes up to a pulley hanging from a reinforced area of some roof joists and drops down to the ground through an 8 1/2' x 22" hole in the floor. The hole had to be large enough to pull drywall through when I finish the bonus room next to the storage room. There will be a cover door for the hole when I eventually insulate the garage. The winch is single speed, so its pretty jumpy when you're on and off the button.
I used the winch with a sling to haul up all the 3/4" t/g OSB by myself. It lifted 4 sheets at a time, no problem. That was really heavy for me to move around once up there, so most of the time I did one or two at a time.
For loading car parts, I made a 5'L x 20"W x 4'T wooden cart with casters. This way I can drag the cart to the parts instead of walking everything over to a pallet. Its strong enough for me to ride on, but pretty awkward to keep aligned through the floor from inside. Its on a single cable with no guide, so I usually align the cart by hand while standing on the drop down ladder next to it.
It had to be cheap, so everything (except the winch and hardware) was made with scrap left in the garage by the builder. Some day I'll improve the set-up, but so far its good enough to get the job done.
Wel, you are right Ron. (And Danglerb.)
But if you ever have to have an electrical inspection, or any other reason for an inspector to be in your garage, the whole place is open season for him.
The best idea is the barn door track under the ridge, with the hoist on rollers so you can move it one way or the other away from a trap door that is hard to see from below.
You know it is there, but donn't advertise it.
But if you ever have to have an electrical inspection, or any other reason for an inspector to be in your garage, the whole place is open season for him.
The best idea is the barn door track under the ridge, with the hoist on rollers so you can move it one way or the other away from a trap door that is hard to see from below.
You know it is there, but donn't advertise it.
Thanks, I did not mean to be offensive, hope it was not taken that way. After I posted and re-read it seemed to me that it may have came off wrong.
The problem I have with the Track under the ridge is that my pole barn was built with a Truss Roof 30' trusses 8'on center. I'd be concerned about the load on the truss. Something others need to consider as well.
The problem I have with the Track under the ridge is that my pole barn was built with a Truss Roof 30' trusses 8'on center. I'd be concerned about the load on the truss. Something others need to consider as well.
If I had a dollar for evey 6x6 I have seen bridging 2 or 3 trusses with a chain fall hung from it I would have to worry about the SS system going bankrupt.
Keep you loads under 500 lbs each and keep the track near a brace in the truss and you should do fine.
Keep you loads under 500 lbs each and keep the track near a brace in the truss and you should do fine.