Looks OK by me, why not make the walls an even 8' high to reduce the trimming of the plywood sheathing?
Wall height was my first thought too.
Also go 8' high on the walls. If you made it shorter to comply with some sort of maximum height restriction, I would reduce the roof pitch to compensate.
hadn't thought about that, thanks. height restriction is not an issue, i just wanted it a little taller than what i have now, but the full 8' make the most sense with less wasted materials.
6'4" door wouldn't work for me, but maybe you are limited on height for permitting?
Your door opening may be too short as it is, especially if you decide on a roll up door which at fully up is still 4-6" below the opening.
the opening is 6'6" tall, but it would make more sense for a 7' tall opening if i raise the sides to 8'. I was planning on doing double doors like what i have now, since they're pretty easy to make. i don't really need a roll up door since this will mostly be for storage.
What is with the weird stud spacing? You want them 16 oc, and eat up whatever is left in a smaller bay at one end. Evenly spaced like you have it doesn't play nicely with sheathing.
RE; walls, build them so your osb has a stud to be screwed/nailed to.
Hi, I echo the comments from the previous replies. Go 16" oc stud spacing, so the sheathing edges always land on a stud, make sure to account for the first stud when starting out, and the last stud will be spaced a bit different as mentioned.
I thougth it would look nicer from the inside, but that make a lot of sense. thanks for catching that. that would be a pain to work with them not lining up
I'd use an osb with an integrated wrb (weather resistant barrier) , like zip, LP weather logic, or gp forcefield. Housewrap ***** to work with
never heard of that, but i'll look into it. I figured housewrap would do a decent job, but that style OSB would be much easier to work with
When you build them install your osb so it overhangs the last stud by the 3.5-4" thickness of the end wall. This way you nail the osb onto the 15ft wall and also nail it to the ends of the 12ft wall. Design wise, I'd start at one end of the 15ft wall frame and place your studs so they are at the 16" and 32" and 48" of the osb sheets. The osb is what gives the wall it's strength so it needs good support.
good idea, i'll see about doing that.
You don't need a full 2x for the ridge as it's just a nailer. 1x is plenty, but I would do site-built trusses instead, anyways. You can build them on the ground and stand them solo, if needed. A lot less up and down and it's easier to control for variations, especially for a novice.
Agree w/ Mike. I'd build trusses using an extra sheet of osb to cut out joint plates (probably wrong term) to glue and screw your 2x6s together. I would build it like this w/o the extra reinforcement pieces.
i went with the ridge beam style because it seems like it is a little stronger, the one i have now had the joint plate style and its starting to bow in the middle (part of the reason i'm rebuilding it)
Spend plenty of time getting walls plumb and square. If you don't, you'll pay for it when doing the roof and finishes
the first go kart i built i didn't square anything when i was welding it, and it was a pain trying to do any modifications to it later because nothing is square or even so you have to just hope its square. learned my lesson there.
I built a 12x16' shed a few years back, and documented it
in this thread.
looks good! i ran across that thread when i was looking for ideas for this one. i like how you left out some ceiling joists, makes it easier to get big stuff up there. i wish i could get a concrete pad for this one, but the one i've got is still in decent shape.
ok, got a few things to change, but thanks everyone for your help!
