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Building a 24'x46'

xyster101

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I am new here and have been looking around some. I am in the beginning stages of a 4 car garage. I just bought a ranch style house with a walk out basement that has a 2 car attached. I have 6 acres so I am adding another 4 car building with storage in the attic for my 61" mower, atv, etc. The site has a large slope, 6' taller in the rear then the front, so I had to dig a lot out. This will allow me to make a ramp to the second floor.

Here is the house, a ranch style. My property is on a hill, at the bottom of a mountain. So this is the rear, which actually faces the street.




Here is the proposed structure to be built to the left of the house and behind it. I had to have about 10 pine trees taken down, only $800.



Then since the project is going to cost more then $10,000 I had to have the plans stamped by an architect. So I drew them up in Sketch up and had them stamped. This will be built on a slope that goes up about 6', so I am making a 10" block foundation to hold the dirt up, with core pours.








Holy **** I have learned a ton so far. I am working with my father in-law, but he is 3 hours away. So he will be doing most of the work, but lots of phone time planning these drawings out.
 
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CNGsaves

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Welcome to GJ and congrats on the recent house purchase. Plans for garage look great and those 12" block walls will be stout !!

Best advice from fellow GJer's comes when they know where you're building, so Update GJ Profile with your City / State.

Keep pics coming. GJer's loves pics !! :D
 

coljar

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As everyone has said, it's a beautiful house and lot. What kind of work do you plan on doing in it?
 

Kevin54

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It says on the sketch up pictures... I was going to say its probably a better idea to remove your actual address from the pictures on the Internet. You never know who is looking and this is a public forum so anyone can see.

Looking good so far!

Heck, as long as someone knows work is going on, no one will show up. That's pretty much a guaranteed right there, or at least it always has been in my case. :lol_hitti

I feel for ya brother in wrestling the 12" blocks around. 8's are bad enough.

Looking forward to the build!!!
 
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xyster101

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Thanks. I just found this site and there are tons of great ideas here. Plans for the building include storing cars, and a small workshop in it. I like to build furniture also, but at work I have access to really nice things. I am an Technology teacher (formerly Industrial Arts).

Had to rip out about 4 stumps, that ***** and got the 12" blocks done today.



 
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xyster101

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Things seem a bit slower in terms of new stuff done. Waterproofed the block with waterproof plaster, then tar, then dimple board. Also finished up the block.



 

volvo

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..
Great job. Looks like that onsite manager is really keeping a sharp eye on your tolerances & wouldn't hesitate to bark out some corrective orders to keep things moving along. :shocking:
 
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xyster101

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Thanks. We actually have 4 dogs working with us!


Poured concrete into the wall this morning. A pump truck was $650 with a 4 hour min. Build a wall around a metal hopper and lifted it with the tractor. Worked out great and took about 1:15 to pour 4 yards.



 

skippy24

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Looks like a great plan. Nice property as well. Do you mind letting us know where that is located?
 

CNGsaves

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DIY work on that garage is turning out terrific !!! :thumbup:

Heck, you could teach a lot to "supposed pro's" that worked on fellow GJer in West Virginia where the whole garage wall fell down !! See at:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209748&page=1

Deep footers you've poured there in NY look super strong and below frost line.

Curious with the 12" block filled with concrete, what insulation and final wall covering are you planning??

Keep pics coming, and of course the top quality work. :beer:
 
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xyster101

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It's time to kick *** and chew bubble gum. . . and I'm all out of gum.

Yesterday's theme. Started with this and ended with that.







Shot from the driveway:

 
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xyster101

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Worked hard today. It was 85 and super sunny. Sweating like fat man chasing a donut down a hill. Moved a lot of weight. Some we could use the tractor for, most was by hand.




Not a fan of heights and walking around on those joists 11' up.









Above: Area where the ramp will go off the back to give access to the second story storage.



Finishing up for the day:

 

Kevin54

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Nice :thumbup::thumbup: If you wouldn't mind, could you put your State that you live in, into your profile? It makes it so much easier to answer questions if they are brought up.

As far as the garage build so far, it's looking great. Does that happen to be dad on the tractor?

I like your house also. It looks like you have a nice serene setting where you are at, wherever "at" may be. Looking forward to seeing the update pics.

Oh and to mention....Welcome to Garage Journal. A highly addictive place that either makes you proud, or makes you jealous. There are so many garages from so many different areas, to so many different lifestyles. But no matter what, once you get your garage built, there is one sitting there stalking you. You just don't know it yet. When you get your last nail put in and officially call your garage done, then that one garage will rear it's ugly head and totally sucker punch you and you'll say "Why the hell didn't think of that before I had all of this done?"

And at that time, you will end up posting the "24' x 46' Revision" thread :lol_hitti

Seriously though.....well I WAS serious.... but looking forward to the build pics. :thumbup::thumbup: And welcome to GJ :hellobye:
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Welcome to GJ!

Great looking plans and structure; keep up the great work and documentation. This thread should be labeled as 'Required Reading' for the students in your 'Technology/Industrial Arts' class. lol

Just curious, since the building is located at the bottom of a mountain slope, do you have any plan/need to excavate up-slope from the building to lay in diverter drains to minimize hydrostatic pressure against the block walls?
 
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xyster101

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Welcome to GJ!



Just curious, since the building is located at the bottom of a mountain slope, do you have any plan/need to excavate up-slope from the building to lay in diverter drains to minimize hydrostatic pressure against the block walls?

Excellent question. The grade is sloped away from the foundation behind the building and directs water around the to the left side as looking at the front. There is 4" drain tile around the whole foundation, with gravel on top. Then water proof plaster with tar over that. I then installed a plastic dimple wall over that to reduce the hydro static pressure. Over kill? Sure, but I know water problems are a pain to deal with later.
 
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xyster101

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So my father in-law informed me that the past 2 weeks he had logged 137 hours, with last Saturday off only. So we have put in 275 hours in 2 weeks together!

Today the brother in-law was helping along with my wife. Wife was shooting nails, carrying 2x8x16 rafters and working like a champ!





Finished up tonight around 8 pm. That attic area is where the storage will be for the mower, ATV, and other items.


 

KELLHAMMER

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south eastern pennsylvania
You created a hinge point using those cripple walls. Without a structural ridge , you might see those short wall bow out. Are you in an area that gets lots of snow? You can brace the tops of those cripple walls by adding a 2x tied in to you floor system diagonally
 

Trey T

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^I agree! That short wall b/t the ceiling joist and rafter "may" bow out unless there's some sort bracing like purlin bracing.
 
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xyster101

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Well I did forget that I started this thread. You are correct in saying the cripple wall could blow out, however, the cripple wall studs extend down along side the 14" joists to the top plate of the first floor wall. Then the cripple studs are toe nailed to the first floor top plate and then again to the bottom and top of the engineered joist. The rafters also have collar ties every other one instead of every 4th one.
We get about 60" of snow a year here in Albany NY. Building inspector and architect approved the design without extending the cripples down through the joist area.
 
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xyster101

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Last Sept we put up the remaining sheets and house wrap.




From the back side:




Dad and I painted the facia and soffet material in the attic of the barn. I used "smart" material which is some kind of expensive composite with a fake wood grain finish. It came in 16' lengths and was fairly easy to install. I also put screen behind the vents.




Seamless gutters with oversized down spouts at the rear only. I did not want down spouts on the front of the building. The gutter guy measured the roof and one side was 5/8" longer then the other. Not bad!



At this point the floor is not poured yet. I put down 2" rigid foam and then ran 1,000 feet of pex in the floor. I did 4 zones of 250' each. I plan on using a water heater, but that will not happen for a while.



Had to build a PEX holder so it would not birds nest on me:



Then zip tied all the pipe down. I picked it up off Amazon for $250 for the 1,000', a steal.

 
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xyster101

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We poured the front first. Here my father in law is using his troweling machine. In the back left you can see the hook up for the in floor heat.



I don't have any pictures but we rented a buggy to pour the back section the next day. We did the front first because we did not want to drive the buggy over the pex piping.

Used some extra cement to hold and cover our sediment tank. It is just a sump pump tank with an in and out on it from the floor drain.



A friend with no mechanical knowledge and I installed the garage door. It was a bear and took 2 days (16 hours). I have never installed one and it is 8'x18' insulated, metal both sides, double pane glass with a wind kit installed. It is HEAVY! Winding springs sucked! I thought I was going to die, I don't know if I will ever do it again.


This is how it sat all winter.



I installed a Lift Master 8500 which works great.

8500_CW_detail.jpg


I used my paint sprayer and painted the attic white for more light. It took 15 gallons and about 4 hours to paint. I did not even bother to move my saw horses.



I also put a temporary stair case in the back.



 
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xyster101

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Then summer hit and I had some time, I'm a technology/shop teacher. I started all this at the beginning of the month.

Put some fir strips inside for the board and batten siding with my new heavy HF nailer. Never buy one of these 12lb hunks of metal.



Marked the outside of the building.



Enlisted the help of good friend and Dad for a few days:



Did some flashing over the garage door. Bent that without a brake by scoring the metal and then using wood.



Slapped on 8 gallons of paint in 4 hours including moving the scaffolding and back rolling it:



I still have a second coat to put on. I started painting the battens on the ground, but it was taking too long. I will just spray them in place. I got my CO on Tuesday!



Next is a ramp out the back door area. It is going to be 20' long and 88" wide so I can park my 61" mower and ATV up there. I did a drawing of it. Going to use 9 2x10 joists with 2 pairs of 3 laminated together over the area the wheels of the ATV are. 2x6 decking and in the middle the 4x4 post will go into the ground 40" and the whole thing is at a 5.5 degree angle to the dirt. The door is 5' off the ground, but the ground slopes up a hill behind the garage so the ramp only needs to drop 30".





Oh and somewhere in there I built this Art Deco bathroom door

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253485


.
 
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xyster101

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We all have problems when building and so far I have not had too many big ones. Yesterday I received my lumber for the ramp and the delivery guy hit the gutter while the truck was tipped up. :shocking: It is a 50' seamless gutter that will cost $400 to replace. 84 Lumber is supposed to pay for it.

 
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xyster101

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I got the ledger board mounted. It is a 2x10 with 8" lags. Below that is two 2x6" to act as a real ledge to support the joists along with the joist hangers. Behind it is window/door self sealer and then drip edge for good measure.




Ramp view. The joists are 2x10 by 20 foot boards. I will have 9 of them total.

 
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xyster101

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That is how to put up a roof old school! No stupid trusses here. I wanted lots of attic space which trusses could not do.

Today more work on the ramp. I put in about 9 hours on it. Very humid and no breeze, but I got a lot done. First up was to get all the 2x10 by 20' joists in place. Had to cut a 5 degree angle on the end of each first.



Decking is easy to replace, but joists are a pain. So I covered them all with window/door tape to keep water off them. Might get another 10 years out of them with this. I have 2 beams that are 3 boards thick right under where the tires of the ATV are.



I installed the decking with 1" spacing. It is not as "pretty" as a deck with the boards touching, but I don't want to bother sweeping it or having sticks, acorns, pine cones getting stuck between the boards. It is under many pine trees.





Worked hard to keep the screws in a nice line. They are pretty close. I have never built anything like this before.

 
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