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Building a 24'x46'

NUTTSGT

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I remember you posting about putting the siding up elsewhere but I forgot about the build thread. The place looks awesome but what are you doing about the back door ?


btw, I'm going to move this to the Gallery section.
 
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captain14

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Good looking build going on. Interested in the second floor rear door design also.

Do you have a man door on the main floor?

Beautiful shot during the snow storm during the winter. Does the tractor live in the new or old garage? Or did it go home to the FIL garage?

Keep us updated on the project.
 

Lootenny

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I'm a bit of a noob, planning on building a second garage in the next year or two. Love what you've done, outstanding work!

Can you tell me why you went with a CMU wall filled with concrete, instead of pouring a concrete wall?

Denny
Woodstock IL
 
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xyster101

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The building is 1200' inside, but 2400 with the second floor space! Since it is in a hill, it was easy to make storage upstairs.


Captian14: There is a man door and a garage door on the first flood. I also framed out a man door area on the left side of the barn should I decide to add one there in the future. It was the FIL tractor, I don't have one but want one.

Inkedfireman: I went with CMU because of cost and time. My father in-law basically gave me about a week heads up that he was coming out with his tractor for 4 weeks to build it all. I called around and poured would require renting forms and a guy to put them up and move them all around, plus it would take a few days as the concrete set up. 12" block filled was approved on the plans by the architect and town dept, so I went with that.
 
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xyster101

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Long day today and very little done. I was able to complete the first railing which took all day. That means the other side will take at least 6 hours too. I also had a screw hit some meat.



I recessed all the railing parts. The lower one is bigger to keep the mower on the ramp. When you mow with beer, the bubbles vibrate out and it hits you harder.



From the top:



This is from the back side.

 

captain14

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Would that be first aid electrical tape on the injured meat area?

The railing s look good, but when did the injury occur and how?
At the end of the day when you were tired and in a rush to finish?

Now you need to get a good sized first aid kit for the shop to prevent future accidents.
 

TheEquineFencer

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xyster101

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It was just a graze. Band aid and tape. I had my hand on the wall where a screw was supposed to go into a board. I removed the board, cut it shorter, so the screw now missed the board and hit my hand. Fits injury building this whole thing!
 

uncletater

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China Grove, NC
It was just a graze. Band aid and tape. I had my hand on the wall where a screw was supposed to go into a board. I removed the board, cut it shorter, so the screw now missed the board and hit my hand. Fits injury building this whole thing!


First injury? Not working hard enough:D


Looks fantastic. Great job.:bowdown:
 

hoho98925

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East of Seattle
Building looks great! I like that its built in to the hill, it's similar to my build in that aspect. Just a note, I have never seen such small steps allowed in a foundation wall. Typically out here you can only step down every 4'. Once again great job!
 
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xyster101

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I don't know why the step size matters as it is all held together with mortar, cement and wire.

I finished up the second railing allowed me to get the ATV in the attic! I need to get some dirt to level out the end of the ramp so the 61" mower will get up there next.





Inside the attic area. I was able to turn the ATV around with a 3 point turn easily.

 
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xyster101

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Just curious here, somebody forget to cut a batten board to size ? :headscrat

Whatcha talking about? :D I actually have some siding work to do before I paint. That one batten and a few others on the other side. Below the ramp and above the ramp door.
 
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Pluribus

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Love how you set up for second story access. You've got me thinking of an alternate placement for my upcoming shop to take advantage of a hillside. Board & batten siding and color choice make this a really attractive building.
 
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xyster101

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Hot and Humid today. The humidity broke just when I started to paint. I finished the last little bit of siding and then broke out the airless sprayer I have.




Set up my scaffolding which took longer to move around the building then actually spraying.







Hooked the drain pipes back up. I went with the larger downspounts so they clog less. They are located in the rear of the building, I did not want to see them from the front.




All painted!



With the house. This is coming up my 550' driveway. Nothing can be seen from the road and the garage is tucked back into the hills and pines.



Next is renting a ditch witch and running electric to it.
 
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xyster101

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Shhhh. It is a quality 14/2 cord. I may have clipped it with the plow last winter too. It only powers the opener and stereo. I run a separate 12/2 for power tools.
 

cleveman

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zentral Iowa
Nice build. I've always wanted to have a garage where I could have a second story and access it like you have. I would have to do some research, but I think I have seen barns where there were earthen ramps on both ends and they were set up probably so you could drive a team of oxen or horses through. The step down with the concrete block was quite elaborate. Would you do that again or would you consider just building the entire bottom walls out of block and being done with it?
 
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xyster101

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The step down with the concrete block was quite elaborate. Would you do that again or would you consider just building the entire bottom walls out of block and being done with it?

NOTHING about this build was simple. I look at pole barns and am jealous. This probably took twice as long or more due to the shape. I did not want block walls, it is hard to attach things to them, ugly to run surface mount, if you insulate and fir out a wall you loose floor space! That is why I went with the least amount of block as I could.
 
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xyster101

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The ramp needed some dirt to it. I moved probably 20 carts of dirt all with a shovel. No fun. Looks good now. I tossed some seed on it, not that it will grow well in the shade back there.



 
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xyster101

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My goal is to get electric in before the winter. I rented an excavator and dug a 50' long by 4' deep trench. Going to have water and electric in there. Took a while, probably should have hired it out.





 
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xyster101

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Thanks for the warm replies. Since last October, I have basically been on my own in terms of working with a family contractor. Just phone calls to my father in law.
It took a lot of research, but I figured out how to run the electric by talking to various people, most important the electrical inspector for the area.
I originally picked up on craigslist some 2/0 cable good for 150 amp, but it was going to be a bear to pull and was only 3 strand. I picked up some 4 strand mobile home wire like others do on here, 2 gauge for 100 amp. It can be run inside a building if in conduit.
I rented a demo drill to blast through the house foundation for the utilities.



The 4" black is for the water pipe, the 2 1/5" top one is electric and the 1 1/4" is communications or whatever.




All the pipes laid in the ground. It is a pain in the *** to be in a 12" wide trench gluing pipe. Afterwards I was told you can glue them above the trench and lower them down. Tough to do by ones self though.




Then I learned you tie a plastic bag to a string and put a shop vac on the other end. It FLIES through the pipe taking the string with it. Then I tied a rope to the string and later wire to the rope.




My friend helping me pull the cable. He really enjoyed putting the lube on the cable.



Then I put 20lbs of hydrolic cement in the hole on both sides to seal it all up. I will coat it with my left over tar if it is still good before I back fill it.



So a long weekend, some help and $1,000 later I have the wire run! There are cheaper ways to do it, direct bury, but I wanted water in there too.

 
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xyster101

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In-laws came over this weekend and we spent some time on insulation. I picked up this Poly-Iso foam cheap off craiglist, it was used on rubber roofs. Stuff cuts really nice with a saw and we put it around the siding blocking. More time consuming then fiberglass, but it was cheaper and has a higher "R" value.



I'm going to run my wires next then put another layer of 2" or 3" foam over that and OBS for sheathing.

 

Short Round

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Nice build. Your use of the elevation reminds me a lot of the boat houses on Lake Ontario with some steep slopes to work with. A lot of them are like that with access from the camp or road to the top floor with a boat down below.

I grew up in Albany so I know those snow stormed winters versus high humidity summers.
 
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xyster101

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Nice build. Your use of the elevation reminds me a lot of the boat houses on Lake Ontario with some steep slopes to work with. A lot of them are like that with access from the camp or road to the top floor with a boat down below.

I have also seen that design a lot in the finger lakes region
 
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xyster101

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I started to put the ISO poly insulation up on the ceiling. I am cutting it to fit between the joists and I will seal it with caulk when complete. It will be 6" thick on the ceiling and from what I have read online the R value is around 6 per inch, giving me a R36 for the ceiling plus the metal corrugated panels. Where the foam meets the wall, I will seal that with spray foam.



The plan is to put 1" of foam on the block and then cover it with OSB that is secured to the block with Tapcons.


 
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xyster101

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And so the winter sets in here with still no insulation or electric finished up. I finished running the conduit, just need to run the cable the last half of the way and tie it into the main panel. I also need to install a panel in the actual garage too. The bends were too wide so I had to heat and bend them smaller, hope that I can still pull through them easy enough.

I know my panel is a mess. Might take a day and rip it all out and put it back in.

 
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xyster101

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I made a post over in electrical section on how to set all this up and that is bascially where I am now. I just need to add some ceiling outlets and run the 10-2 wire for the water heater (radient floor). I also need to change the 100 amp to a 90amp in the garage panel.



Switches above, from left to right: 3-way to 3 outside motion spots, 2 Exterior Lights left/right of the garage door, 2 outside rows of inside lights, center row of inside lights. There are two circuits feeding these lights so I can work on some while having others still on :beer:





In the attic I installed 4 cheap lights and 6 outlets.






Dad wacked his head on a roof nail installing outlets.




Put a 30 amp 120v RV outlet on the side for the camper.



Panel Box is about half full. I have 5 circuits for outlets alone. It is over kill, but each outlet box is a duplex with 2 outlets, one on each circuit, 2 circuits per side of the garage, plus the attic outlets. I don't think I need to add any more to it and I am trying really hard to keep it neat and organize. Aside from the 100amp to 90amp main change I need to do, see anything wrong?
 
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xyster101

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Time to add doors to the rear attic entrance. They are taking a long time because it is all custom and out of rough cut wood. Some sketch up

uploadfromtaptalk1436498364972.jpg

Then the building of one door.

uploadfromtaptalk1436498327581.jpg

And making the Mortises.

uploadfromtaptalk1436498393462.jpg
 
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