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Building a 30x30 shop 14ft walls

jawesy

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
23
Location
St Laurent Manitoba Canada
Hello from the cold north, Manitoba Canada, currently building a 30x30 shop 14ft walls, looking for suggestions and ideas to do, I'm putting in a Bendpack hoist, would like ideas for my indoor radiant floor heat, (electric on demand closed hot water heater type) and any other ideas on what to do, thanks in advanceIMG-20161012-WA0002.jpgIMG-20161012-WA0005.jpgIMG-20161014-WA0004.jpg

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abachman

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
214
Location
Illinois
A friend here in the Chicago area uses the Hot Water Heater with a Red Pump for circulation. It does a great job and doesn't need to run all that much.
 

38Chevy454

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
4,036
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Can't offer advice for the floor heat, but I will say to put as much insulation as you can. Also seal up around the walls and ceiling joints or electrical openings as good as you can. Insulation will not only help the heat loss, but it also helps with summer to minimize the cooling needs. In general the insulation helps moderate the tempos inside. This is very beneficial for your radiant floor heating as it has a longer heating up recovery time.
 

GYPSY400

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
517
Location
Naughton Ontario
I am putting 2x6 walls r20 value, and r40 value for the ceiling, I put 2 inch under slap insulation board to

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That's exactly what I have in Northern ontario .. and it's cozy!
I have no problem heating it with a 40k btu Reznor style heater ( haven't got the in floor online yet) and heating costs aren't that bad..cost me about 25% more on my equal billing and my garage is close to the size of my house. Keep in mind I run a programmable thermostat with the max temp going up to 16 or 17*C

I think the insulation in the slab makes a huge difference.. even if I shut the heat down for a few days it doesn't get below freezing inside the garage.

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Dragfluid

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Sep 15, 2013
Messages
17,618
Location
Pillager, MN
Put house wrap under the siding. Put Polyiso foam sheets on the inside, over your wall insulation. This provides for a thermal break and also adds another R-6. Also, using dense pack cellulose on the walls will be cheaper and more effective than fiberglass. Go more on the ceiling. At least R-60 cellulose.
Don't forget ceiling fans!
 

gnpenning

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2015
Messages
2,754
Location
I have more questions than answers.
Your slab exterior needs a thermo break as well otherwise you will just sending heat to the outside. I made that mistake once, corrected it the next time and it makes a huge difference.

My buddy tried the water heater on his with SIP panels and has always been disappointed. I've always used a correctly sized boiler. You can find on-line calculators for this.
 

Dragfluid

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Sep 15, 2013
Messages
17,618
Location
Pillager, MN
Yes on the thermo break for the slab. Forgot to point that out. To see what we're talking about, look at my build thread, and it shows it. 2" of rigid foam, 24" down.
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,152
Location
West central Indiana
Put house wrap under the siding. Put Polyiso foam sheets on the inside, over your wall insulation. This provides for a thermal break and also adds another R-6. Also, using dense pack cellulose on the walls will be cheaper and more effective than fiberglass. Go more on the ceiling. At least R-60 cellulose.
Don't forget ceiling fans!

Don't disagree on most of it but look up tyvek failures. It's becoming a big problem.
 
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