Building a Bend Pak HD9XW

[Junkman]

Remember, you must follow the instructions in the manual, and these photos and description are only intended to help you to understand the assembly proceedure. You are responsible to make sure that everything that you do is done correctly and safely. Failure to follow the instruction manual can lead to injury or death. Please be very careful and read and understand the factory instructions and work safely.

My lift arrived about a week ago, and I finally got time and help to put it together. Below are the pictures of the process. I have to thank Question, a member on this site for the help he gave me in assembling. I started to assemble it with my wife, but we were unable to complete the task due to time, lack of strength, and operator error.. Question (without his permission, I don't want to use his real name.... who knows, he might be in the witness protection program.. ) stepped in to help complete the job.

When you get the lift delivered, place some wooden blocks under the runways so the end shipping brackets are not touching the ground. This will make it easier to take them off. The top runway will be the one with the hydraulic cylinder mounted in it, so it will also be the heaviest to lift. Start by removing the plastic wrap, and then remove as much cardboard as possible. Once you have the cardboard removed, you will find the steel strapping holding the corner posts and the cross tubes to the bottom runway. Cut the steel strapping, and start taking everything out from between the runways. You will find one large box containing the hardware & instructions, and another box containing the hydraulic pump. You will need help getting everything out from between the runways, since it is designed to have everything fit in a way that nothing can shift and get damaged.

 

[Junkman]

Once you have everything out from between the runways, then you will need to figure out a way to separate the top runway from the brackets. I did this by stacking wood between the runways and then unbolting one end completely. I lifted one end of the runway and removed the end shipping steel frame. I then did the same at the other end. I am fortunate that I have a tractor, and I used this to lift the end of the runway, and to lower it down to the bottom runway after a helper removed the wooden spacer blocks that I had originally installed. I separated the two runways with a piece of wood. I them slid the top runway to the side and had them both lying side by side with wood holding them off of the driveway. This is important for moving the runways later on.
I then set two of the uprights lying on the ground with wooden blocks under the top edge. They were spaced out approximately the distance of the cross beams. I then with the help of my wife slid the cross beam into the top of one post, and then the other.

 

[Junkman]

Once we had both ends of the cross beam inserted into the tops of the columns, we just slid them down the columns until they got to the bottom. At this point, I placed a wooden block at the outer edge of each end of the cross beam, and we lifted the columns to there upright position. This is the easier way to assemble the cross beams to the columns than the way that the instruction manual tell you how to do it. As you can see in the pictures, we missed the proper location of the wooden blocks, so we used a pry bar and some additional blocks to accomplish getting the cross beam up from the bottom a few inches...

 

[Junkman]

The next part is getting the runways onto the cross beams. To do this, I used a pallet jack and rolled the runway onto the first cross beam at an angle, and then straightened it out to get it over the other cross beam. It takes some juggling to get it properly centered, but it isn't difficult if you are patient. Once we had one runway properly centered, with the help of a large Phillips screwdriver acting as a pin locater, I slipped a bolt into each hole, just so the runway wouldn't move. Later on, when you raise the cross beam a little more, you can then reach under and put a lock washer and nut on each bolt and securely attach the runway to the cross beam.
Make sure that you have the power runway matched up with power post. Also, I almost forgot to mention that you will need to remove the pulleys from the runway. This requires the use of a metric Allan wrench, and a small pry bar or screwdriver to get the pins started. You will also note that there are "windows" in the cross beams. The taller windows must match up to the tall window opening as the end of the runway. It is important to pay attention to this detail, as well as making sure that you have the power post at the proper corner to match up with the power end of the power runway. Please consult the instruction manual for further information.
You will also need to install the ladders inside the posts. To do this, I turned the ladder at a 45 degree angle to get it inside the post, and then turned it till it was parallel with the back of the post. Then I slipped it into the groove in the plastic blocks at the end of the cross beam and lowered it into place. It takes a little jiggling to get it through the two sets of blocks, and it will push the safety's out of the way as it settles down at the bottom of the post.

 

[akdiesel]

Great write up. This will be very helpfull when I get mine. I will be using the aid of my 16 year old as well.
I should have mine by the end of this month. That is expected for Alaska shipping. 2-3 weeks means about twice as long.

 

[Junkman]

Once you have both runways properly aligned and bolted to the cross beams, it is time to start to raise the cross beams and the runways. To do this, I used a floor jack and lots of wooden blocks. Secure the top caps to the posts and ladders to the top caps prior to raising the cross beams. Once you have the cross beam at the first hole in the ladder, and it has engaged the safety lock, then go to the other side and raise that one. Keep doing this until you have the cross beams / runways high enough that you can comfortably work under the lift. Also, before you get under the lift, make sure that both runways are securely bolted to the cross beams with bolts, lock washers, and nuts. They must be securely attached for your safety. Double check everything before going under the lift.

Things that I forgot to mention.....
I took the pins out of the pulleys that are mounted in the cross beams, and lubricated the pulley bushings prior to starting to assemble the lift. If you want to grease these pulleys, you have to do this prior to doing anything else with the assembly. Once you slide the cross beams into the posts, you can no longer remove the pins that hold the cross beam pulleys. I used a high quality wheel bearing grease on all pulleys and pins.

The cables are routed from the top to the underside, and you must make sure that you put the cable on the correct side of the cable safety roller. Pay particular attention to make sure that you have the correct cable at each post. All four cables are different lengths. Also, consult the pictures in the instruction manual for proper routing. Once you have the pump mounted, cables routed, pump filled with oil and properly wired, then check your cables a second time to make sure that there is no cross cables. This is important and I can't stress this enough.

You will need to extend the piston to hook up the cables, so the easiest way that I found was to remove both plugs from the cylinder, and then with the help of your helper pulling on one side of the cylinder guide, and you on the other, just pull it out...

 

[Junkman]

Things that the instruction manual are not clear on.... Hose routing is the only thing that I had to call customer service about. The power side of the pump is on the right, and the return was on the left side. There are two pumps tanks available. A long narrow one, and a short wider one. Mine is the long narrow one. Bend Pak has redesigned the hose attachment method, and the new design is very nice. All hoses are enclosed in a plastic tube that is bolted to a bracket at the post, and the runway at the other end. Once I learned how the hose attachment to the pump was supposed to be, everything fit into place perfectly. I will get pictures of this tomorrow.

 

[akdiesel]

Sorry Junk. I stepped in the middle of your write up.

 

[Junkman]

Not an issue.. I type slowly, and my thoughts were wandering anyway.

 

[bobs409]

That sure brought back some memories for me. (some good, some bad)

Been there, done that.

 

[Question]

False Advertising!!!!

Junkman said that these gals would show up for beer services... they were a no show!!!

The lift went together fairly easy since we had taken apart his old one and I assembled it in my garage. We only needed the manual to get the cable routing(oops) and how to hook up the hoses,this did require a phone call since the manual didn't explain the TWO different pumps. When I left it did go up by itself. Junk needed to hook up his compressor that was buried in the garage to make it go down. Since it was starting to rain he put the big red machine back in the garage.

He isn't called junkman for nothing...hahah

 

[Junkman]

The girls showed up right after you left..

Here are some additional pictures of the underneath of the lift, and of the cables.. I have also shown the new hydraulic hose routing and the redesigned air control system. I like this much better than the old method of having the large coiled blue hose going to the runway.

 

[trackwelder]

Very nice I look forward to the day when there is one of those in my shop.

 

[Junkman]

Very nice I look forward to the day when there is one of those in my shop.

I look forward to the day that I can get this one into my shop. I have to do it before the snow flies, but I still haven't figured out where to put all the rest of the **** that is in there now...

 

[trackwelder]

Well Junk I'm not to far away maybe I can take some of it off your hands, I can make some room

 

[Junkman]

I was in the process of cleaning it when I got sick, and I haven't had the energy or the motivation to finish. Back then, everything just got stuffed back inside and I went off to the hospital for surgery. I keep thinking that if I just start, it won't take that long to finish, it is just the starting that gets put off...

 

[trackwelder]

Yep I know what you mean. I have a car in my place and was ready to put a new motor in it and got hurt. Thankfully the owner is very understanding and hopefully I can get off the crutches soon. Get that in before the white stuff starts flying.

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Junkman, The way your lines run from the pump, and the air release look to be an improvement over what I have on my HD-12 that I purchased earlier this year. I will have to see if I can convert mine to where I can run the lines that way and not have the air line under so much tension. What kind of material do they use to run the lines from the post to the runway, a large piece of hose or something? I don't like the coiled airline on mine. I got the airline tangled around my exhaust one time when I was backing a pickup off of my HD-12. Luckily I looked in the mirror and saw it before I ripped the line out. I'm glad to see that your lift went together smoothly and that you didn't end up with the nightmare that I did. It looks like your lift arrived in much better shape than mine did too! Was your hydraulic cylinder installed when it got there? Mine had the assembly on it that the cables attach to but the end of the cylinder wasn't attached to the lift, it was just hanging down loose between the runways.

John

 

[Junkman]

I believe that Bend Pak is constantly trying to improve the lifts that they sell, and with that will come some minor design change problems of fit and finish. The one thing that I know is that when they have a problem, they will do everything in their power to rectify it as soon as possible.
The air release uses the same plastic tubing from the push button to the line that runs the air release cylinders. You can purchase this at the places that make up hydraulic hoses as a business, but not those that do it as a side line, such as auto parts stores. I believe that is used on large trucks and heavy equipment. It uses a quick disconnect that you just push the line into. On mine, they have a 1 1/4" diameter plastic tube that the hydraulic lines go through and the plastic air release also goes through this tube. There is a newly designed holder that mounts to the pump mountings to hold this tube, and a large hole drilled in the side of the runway to attach it at that end. The valve button itself is the same as the older ones.
As for condition after shipping, it has a few scratches, but I can live with them, since it is a work tool, not a showroom piece. One end of the runway got a slight bend in it also, but a quick tap with the hammer straightened it out. The lift comes with a can of touch up paint, and I have yet to touch up anything. My original lift had the cylinder installed in the runway, but I had to put the nut on the end. This one came completely assembled. I would be inclined to believe that this might have been a problem for many to install, since they didn't have a socket and impact gun that was large enough to install it, and that is why Bend Pak is now putting the nut on in the factory. The instructions have been greatly increased in description as well as pictures, which is also a welcome improvement. They have also changed the attachment design of the post top plates, and now use two bolts and nuts on the sides that hold them to the post. One of the things that I would like to see them do is to punch the holes on the non powered runway for the air kit that is used with the rolling jack. I have the air kit, but I don't have a 7/8" drill bit to cut the holes. I don't like going through heavy steel with the hole saw, since they have a tendency to walk when you drill on the vertical. Overall, I am very please with it, and I hope to be getting another rolling jack for it. If you have a chance, could you please post close up pictures of the jack adapter that Jeff had made for yours... Thanks Junk...

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Junkman, In your pictures I can just barely see the plastic tube that the air and hydraulic lines run through. It looks like it could be some type of flexible electrical conduit, do you think that's what it is?
I was hoping by now I could post a review / pictures of the adapter that I bought from BendPak / Jeff. The first adapter plate Jeff shipped had some issues and it bent pretty badly the first time I used it. Jeff asked me to hold off on the review and pictures until I had the new adapter plate. They assured me if would ship out last week but so far I haven't received anything. I emailed them over the weekend asking for a tracking number but haven't received a response yet. I'm going to have to send another email and see if I can find out what's going on with it. The adapter is a good idea and if it can be perfected should work really well. If you look on the Bendpak site at the rolling bridge jacks for the larger lifts you will see that they are set up so you can put the lifting cradles on top of the jack cross piece in addition to using the holes in the sliding arms. Basically this adapter will allow you to make your RJ-45 , RJ-6 work like that.

John

 

[Junkman]

I assume that you are referring to an adapter such as on this 12,000 pound bridge jack?

 

[Junkman]

Junkman, In your pictures I can just barely see the plastic tube that the air and hydraulic lines run through. It looks like it could be some type of flexible electrical conduit, do you think that's what it is?
I was hoping by now I could post a review / pictures of the adapter that I bought from BendPak / Jeff. The first adapter plate Jeff shipped had some issues and it bent pretty badly the first time I used it. Jeff asked me to hold off on the review and pictures until I had the new adapter plate. They assured me if would ship out last week but so far I haven't received anything. I emailed them over the weekend asking for a tracking number but haven't received a response yet. I'm going to have to send another email and see if I can find out what's going on with it. The adapter is a good idea and if it can be perfected should work really well. If you look on the Bendpak site at the rolling bridge jacks for the larger lifts you will see that they are set up so you can put the lifting cradles on top of the jack cross piece in addition to using the holes in the sliding arms. Basically this adapter will allow you to make your RJ-45 , RJ-6 work like that.

John

Not certain where they procure the plastic tube from. Here are some more pictures..

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Junkman, Thanks for taking the time to take the additional pictures, I really appreciate it. I've seen tubing / conduit and fitting that looked similar to what is used on your lift. I can't think of what it's called but I may think of it later or look it up in an electrical supply catalog. It sure looks like a better set up than using that coiled air hose. When I put my HD-12 together I tied the two hydraulic lines together with cable ties. That seemed to help keep them a little neater but having it all in one piece of conduit like that is nice. If you get a chance would you mind taking a picture of the bracket that goes on the pump mount?

The picture you show of the 12,000 lb. rolling jack does give you a general idea of how this adapter for the RJ-45 / RJ-6 is supposed to work. I'll post pictures of mine when and if I get a new adapter plate. I'm beginning to wonder if it's ever going to show up. I finally got an email response today, had to write them again to get that and I really didn't find out anything. The first adapter that was shipped out failed the first time I used it. The idea is a great one but the workmanship on this one was poor and that's what caused it to fail. The piece that sits on top of the jack was made up of two lift arms from another lift, they weren't welded up squarely and it caused the load to shift to the outside of the jack and not down on the cross piece. I hope I get something soon because I really need it and was promised something months ago. I know you've had wonderful luck with BendPak, I sure wish my experiences were even 1/2 as good as what you've experienced. Unfortunately just about everything I've purchased from them has had multiple issues and their customer service is absolutely terrible. You contact them and they promise to send out parts to correct problems and it never happens when they say it will or you receive the wrong parts. It's very frustrating.

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Junkman, Does this look something like the product they are running your lines in? http://www.precisionppi.com/corrugated_flexible_conduit.php

 

[Junkman]

The link that you provided looks like the product that Bend Pak is now shipping. The bracket is sandwiched between the pump and the mounting bracket on the post. I will loosen the bolts and get you a picture of the bracket tomorrow.

As for the customer service, I can't understand why the difference in what you have received, and the service that I have received. When I purchased my first lift, I did have an issue with the cable jumping off the pulley and the cable was damaged beyond use. They got me a replacement cable, and even sent me a replacement pulley, even though the pulley wasn't damaged, just in case the pulley was the problem. It turned out to be that one of the bolts that secured the runway to the cross beam was the issue. If the cable gets on the wrong side of this bolt, then it will put tension on the cable as the lift goes up, and will pull the cable off the pulley. To remedy this, you need to put tension on the cables, and then remove each runway bolt. When you reinstall the bolt, the tension will locate the cable in its proper orientation and the issue is resolved. It seems that this issue only happens to some installations, and not others. It is one of those items that is neither the fault of the manufacturer or the installer. It is one of those quirks that you need to be aware of, and be pro active to correcting it before you put the lift in service.
Today, I called Charmglow because of a defect in the new grille. I was told that they would send out replacement parts free of charge for the parts, however, I was still responsible for the cost of shipping and handling. I have never had to pay for any replacement parts or shipping with anything that I have ever had a problem with before, but I guess that this is the wave of the future, where the customer gets the parts for free, but pays shipping. I am certainly much happier dealing with a reliable company such as Bend Pak than I am dealing with a company like Charmglow.
I believe that if you are that unhappy with your Bend Pak products, that you request a full refund and that they take everything back that you purchased. In the end, it might be better for both you and Bend Pak ultimately. Then you will be free to purchase another brand that you will be happier with.

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Junkman, Don't worry about going to the trouble to loosen the bolts up. If you just take a picture of it put together then I can probably figure out the rest. From what I can imagine it must be kind of an L shaped bracket with a couple of holes on one side to mount to the point where the motor does, then the small part of the L must have a larger opening where the conduit attaches. Are the lines held snug by the conduit ends or is there enough play that they can slide around? The way your lines run under the runway looks like a lot cleaner installation then what they used on mine. Mine has some pretty sharp bends in it to route it through the pieces of U shaped metal they welded to the bottom of the runway.

Some people say they've had excellent luck with BendPak getting parts out for warranty issues ASAP. I can't understand why time in time with me they promise to send out things next day and then don't do it. If they can't do it that's fine I guess but why continually tell someone that they will do it and then not follow through with it time and time again. This HD-12 has had so many issues that everyone would probably have been better of if they'd just replaced the entire lift to start with. Who's to say the second one would have been better though. It seems like it's just luck of the draw, some like you happen to get lucky and get a good one that's complete, goes together correctly and works well. Other's that purchase from them have to spend time fixing things, waiting for replacement parts, etc. Never did I imagine that I would buy from BendPak and have to spend the time I've had to spend taking things apart, putting new parts in, taking measurements and telling them what the problem is. Jeff Kritzer and his associates should be able to figure out the fix to these issues, preferably before they market a project to the public. It disappoints me to no end that I've had to spend my time and energy to do their testing for them, someone on their payroll should have been doing that. At times it feels as if one day I just decided to build a 4 post lift, bought some parts, put it together and now I'm having to figure out how to correct all of the things that wouldn't work correctly with it. You'd think that buying from a big company, especially one with the reputation of BendPak that they'd be capable of shipping out an item that works correctly right out of the package, 99.9% of the time. Since their production has gone overseas they've obviously run into some quality control issues. That's their fault because obviously they don't know what's coming out of their factory and as a result ship products that have some serious issues with them. One example is mine where the cylinder guide assembly was installed backwards. Luckily on mine it only damaged the cylinder and cylinder retainer plate. It is a very important part though, one that secures all of the cables to the cylinder. I'd hate to have something like that break and release all of the cables just because someone at the factory didn't put it together correctly. Your lift looked like they did an excellent job of packing it. Like I said mine arrived looking like it had been through a war, the cylinder was half installed the other end was loose and it was banging around in there between the runways and fell out when I begin to take the parts off the shipping irons. I probably should have had them take this back months ago but at this point I've got way too much time and money invested in it and even getting it returned and a full refund I'd be out quite a bit plus I'd have to spend more for another product since their have been price increases since the first of the year when I purchased this one. Jeff Kritzer says it's his goal to have me on here telling people how great BendPak is and how much I love my lift. At this he could get a lot closer to that goal if he'd follow through with doing what he says he will do. Obviously that's something he has trouble doing.

 

[bchee]

awesome write up and picts. I dream of having a lift one day. I'm sure it takes a lot patience to try to assemble something that big and take pictures at the same time.

 

[Question]

After seeing how Bend Pak had improved the cable and air routing on Junk's lift this is what I did to his old one(mine) to make the hoses run together and look a little cleaner.

By the way can you send the beer girls over...I need a cool one...

 

[Junkman]

If you take the coupling off the end of the black iron pipe that I painted blue, and replace it with elbow, you can get the air line oriented in a downward direction, and it will clean it up even more....

 

[jcs_in_ky]

I was looking at mine this morning thinking I might try doing it the way you did. That would eliminate the problems with the coiled airline running out at the angle it does and catching on things. The big piece of flex conduit would be nice but doing it this way would save on drilling a new larger hole in the runway and also fabricating the bracket.
Junkman, have you set up the airline kit for your rolling jack yet? If so how did it work for you? I've got a big spool of that plastic airline like BendPak uses and I see the local Fastenal store carries the push lock fittings to work with it. I may run the lines one of these days for the rolling jack. I take my ******** and turn it around from time to time though so it might be inconvenient to have to disconnect the like each time unless I go with a normal quick disconnect.

 

[kbs2244]

?
I would go one step further and take that whole horizonal ****** off an put a 45 at the bottom of the vertical for the hose coupling.
That will line things up better.

jcs
It scares me to see those hoses so close to the cables.
I can just imagine some unseen rubbing going on.
I would say anything you can do to protect them would be worth the effort.

 

[akdiesel]

Question, great thinking.

 

[Junkman]

Question, great thinking.

I've questioned his great thinking also...

 

[jcs_in_ky]

kbs2244, That's the main reason I tied my two hydraulic lines together with the cable ties. Running together seemed to keep them headed more in the direction they were supposed to go and not coiling and running towards the cables and cross beam on the lift. They really do need something to protect them. I always keep an eye on mine when I'm running the lift.

 

[Junkman]

I was looking at mine this morning thinking I might try doing it the way you did. That would eliminate the problems with the coiled airline running out at the angle it does and catching on things. The big piece of flex conduit would be nice but doing it this way would save on drilling a new larger hole in the runway and also fabricating the bracket.
Junkman, have you set up the airline kit for your rolling jack yet? If so how did it work for you? I've got a big spool of that plastic airline like BendPak uses and I see the local Fastenal store carries the push lock fittings to work with it. I may run the lines one of these days for the rolling jack. I take my ******** and turn it around from time to time though so it might be inconvenient to have to disconnect the like each time unless I go with a normal quick disconnect.

I haven't run the airline kit yet, because I don't know exactly how I want to do it. I am inclined to using 1/2" black iron pipe so I can also use air tools with a minimum of inconvenience. I just haven't decided exactly how I am going to do the piping. I am still open to ideas on this aspect of the lift. I have never seen the need to take the ******** and turn it around. I just push it from one end to the other. I lift one end of the car, and support it under the frame with stacked 2" x 6" blocks at the hight that I need, and then go to the other end of the car with the lift, and jack that end up. Not as convenient as having two jacks, but it works for me..

 

[jcs_in_ky]

Once I get my two post put up I probably won't use my jack as much and even now sometimes it seems like it's in the way so I often take it off the lift when I'm not using it. People have mentioned how hard it is to take it on and off but it's really easy if you use a furniture type dolly.

 

[Question]

?
I would go one step further and take that whole horizonal ****** off an put a 45 at the bottom of the vertical for the hose coupling.
That will line things up better.

thanks, another good idea, going to stop in the plumbing section to get an assortment of elbows and *******

 

[Junkman]

thanks, another good idea, going to stop in the plumbing section to get an assortment of elbows and *******

Don't forget that they have to match the color of the lift...

 

[BHR4CE1]

This lift looks like a perfect one for my needs. Is it possible to have this installed by BendPak themselves? I am SO not handy with this type of stuff. I would feel much better if someone that installs these for a living did it. Also, do they only come in blue? I've checked their website..but-didn't see anything about other colors.

 

[Cryptic1911]

Its really not that hard.. anyone can do it (if you have a way to move the heavy pieces around).. as for the colors, you can probably custom order it in another color for more money