Building a buggy: nobggrnchvy
- Thread starter bggrnchvy
- Start date
Lot of small tasks, nothing major.
Engine wiring harness is in, only thing that needs to modded is the throttle body connector which I assumed since it's on the wrong side now.
Made a mount for the harness relay/fuse block even if half of the ciruits are dead/unecesary. I may unloom and depin all the extraneous **** when I tear it all down for paint...then again I might not:laughing:
Finally chucked up and turned down the 1350CVs for the 2-1/8" x 3/16" wall tube. They needs ~.020 turned off for a nice fit.
Started reassembling the front axle, it needs to go in for mockup one more time.
I had some concerns about getting any airflow through the oil cooler, so I modeled some scoops and printed them. After working out the protoype issues in PLA I did them in PETG. The center support interference isn't right and it cracked at the weakest point. I'm fixing that this morning hopefully.
Engine wiring harness is in, only thing that needs to modded is the throttle body connector which I assumed since it's on the wrong side now.
Made a mount for the harness relay/fuse block even if half of the ciruits are dead/unecesary. I may unloom and depin all the extraneous **** when I tear it all down for paint...then again I might not:laughing:
Finally chucked up and turned down the 1350CVs for the 2-1/8" x 3/16" wall tube. They needs ~.020 turned off for a nice fit.
Started reassembling the front axle, it needs to go in for mockup one more time.
I had some concerns about getting any airflow through the oil cooler, so I modeled some scoops and printed them. After working out the protoype issues in PLA I did them in PETG. The center support interference isn't right and it cracked at the weakest point. I'm fixing that this morning hopefully.
The engine relay/fuse block got mounted. put some rivnuts intot he backside so it's easily installed/removed.
Then I put the front axle back in so I could remeasure driveshafts.
A little math and I ended up with a cut length leaving me 1/2" of compression at full bump on the shortest (rear) and 3-1/2" of 1-1/2" dia spline engagement at full droop.
Tacked them up, I'll spin them on the lathe and check round before I finalize them.
Right on the money at the prescribed compressed length.
It was going really well until this.
Not snaking a driveshaft in there. Exhaust will have to be modified. To be continued.
Then I put the front axle back in so I could remeasure driveshafts.
A little math and I ended up with a cut length leaving me 1/2" of compression at full bump on the shortest (rear) and 3-1/2" of 1-1/2" dia spline engagement at full droop.
Tacked them up, I'll spin them on the lathe and check round before I finalize them.
Right on the money at the prescribed compressed length.
It was going really well until this.
Not snaking a driveshaft in there. Exhaust will have to be modified. To be continued.
Bambu P1S, thanks.
Engine bay room is at a premium, but I still needed to mount the engine oil catch can. The only reasonable spot I had of course needs a custom mount, so I trimmed one out of some 2x1 box tubing I welded a return to and drill a bunch of holes in.
Now with it bolted in the second half of the placement issue becomes more clear. The air filter isn't going to fit on top. It hits both the oil cooler and the hood.
Solution?
Test peice in PLA, final in ASA with a relief to allow a band clamp to tighten the adapter to the top of the catch can.
Solved, just need to go back and add clamps.
Last item was building some 4130 sway bar end links to replace the solid rod units that came with the bars. There's plenty of room in my application for 1in tubes and I didn't like the compromises the solid rods made.
So just letting us see more of the skills....The modeling side has been all/part of the day job for 20 years, so I hope I have a good handle on that
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PhantomEB
Well-known member
Buggys are cool, I prefer full bodies or what I have left….
chicks dig body damage eh?
chicks dig body damage eh?
I tried that once!
It didn't end well
Weekend was full activities that weren't buggy related, but I started tackling the driveline interference issue.
I started by unbolting and then cutting the flanges off the current exhaust and mocking it up. Then I tapped in the concentric drievline spacers to make all of my flanges, front and rear, match. Finally I tried to see if a 45 immediately off the manifold would work.
Not even close.
I texted with a friend about maybe making an LS truck manifold work and he suggested just chopping this manifold up and trying to make a V-band work. Well, I do have an extra V-band sitting here and I've got nothing lose, ok.
I chopped the manifold collector off at an angle, squeezed a fitting to narrower it a bit to fit and tacked and mocked up a 45 with a v-band, then burned the 45 on the manifold with some 308 rod I had laying around. Thick cast to thin 304 resulted in really oxidized weld joint, but oh well.
This will work out, as long as the fitting doesn't break off the manifold...
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice modification of the manifold. The only think I can think of is fatigue cracking over time being **** welded to cast, but time will tell. You'll have to keep us posted once she's in service.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
When welding dissimilar metals, I have had excellent results using ER309L. It's not as specific to cast as ni99 or ni55, but it welds nicely and has a good amount of elongation to allow for a long lasting repair. Just as FYI.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed. IF it fails it will probably be in the HAZ, not the actual weld with the wall thickness being so thin. Just thought I'd throw the ER309L option out there as I have used it successfully on similar jobs. You may never have an issue so no need to worry until (or if) there is.