To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Building a forge

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I know we have a few Blacksmiths on here and I hope they join in here and give me a few pointers.

I have done a lot of research on this and thought it was time to get off my **** and get going.

I chose to re purpose my old welding table for the base.

Of course this is a teaser, the video of the build will be coming out soon.





 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
Will be following along on this one, what fuel will you be using?


Coal, I know most seem to prefer bituminous but getting that here is almost impossible so anthracite it is.

I like it. What are you using as a blower? I'll be making a gas forge soon.

A cheap bathroom fan unit with a speed control, if I can't get the control to work I will install a damper/bypass to control flow. Since I will be using anthracite coal as fuel I will need a constant volume of air to keep the fire going, hopefully the speed control works so I can add more air as needed.

I have plans for a gas forge as well, but wanted to go old school first and learn fire and heat control.

Tomorrow I have a video coming out on building a propane burner that could be used on a gas forge.
 

MichaelBikel

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
379
Location
CT
Following this with interest! Just started re-profiling a knife and i've wanted to forge my own axe/knives for a long time now. Maybe this will give me a nudge in the right direction.
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I will be back on it later this week so stay tuned, video of the build coming in a few weeks.

Originally I had thought to build a quick brake drum forge, then I started doing some research and discovered that a brake drum is really the wrong size and shape for a forge, in order to get the right heat profile you need a longer narrow fire.

I searched a lot until I found several designs, including some commercial cast fire pots that had dimensions. They were all a bit different of course but 6x9 at the bottom and 9x13 at the top seemed to be the median size with a depth of 5 to 6 inches.

It became easy then since I have a few tons of 3/8ths x 6 inch flat stock.

The only materials I have had to buy so far is some 1 1/2 x 1/4" flat for the upper rim of the fire pot, the pot is just held into the table by gravity, which should not be a problem since I would guess its weight at around 60 pounds.

I have had a lot of fun on this so far, this is the only really heavy welding project I have done in some time. The beads might be short but the multiple passes with the weldment radiating the heat gets my blood going.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
Thumper68
It might be a false economy to use one hood for two purposes. The forge that you've built so far is perfect for a fabricated side draft hood. ABANA may still offer plans.

After my last post I was thinking about it and I think you are right, a side draft will be perfect on it.

I was thinking of doing a side draft that outlets into the larger hood then out, my question is would this draft properly?

One nice thing is that I can try it and if it does not work then just pipe it out on its own.

If I want to use the foundry furnace inside it will require a hood so I need to build the hood no matter what.
 

catalytic

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
636
Location
Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
I have built a coal forge before. Here are some thoughts/tips:
1. You need more airflow than you think. The first two I built were starved for air -- no fun.
2. Why no insulation around your steel pan? Kaowool and firebrick can be had pretty cheap.
3. Have you considered adding some bent steel to make your rectangular-bottomed box more round-cornered? Corners == very uneven heat. Or, maybe you don't care since you plan to mostly just use the hottest part in the middle of the coals over the blower hole?
4. Blower holes clog up. It's worth thinking about how you're going to unclog them while everything is hot. At least put a T with a big handle to release the hole on it where you join the vertical and horizontal pipes such that you can open it up and let the junk fall out (a bit like the galvanized part with 4 holes that you can twist open at the bottom of a Weber barbeque)

Cool project.
 

Seppala

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
721
Location
North Fork of Long Island, N.Y.
Thumper68
Sorry, I can't offer any suggestions based on experience on piping to draft from one outlet to another. The steel fabricated side draft that I worked at on occasion had a 10 inch round pipe outlet straight up through the roof. It "sucked" ok but probably would have drawn better with a 12 inch diameter pipe.
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I have built a coal forge before. Here are some thoughts/tips:
1. You need more airflow than you think. The first two I built were starved for air -- no fun.
2. Why no insulation around your steel pan? Kaowool and firebrick can be had pretty cheap.
3. Have you considered adding some bent steel to make your rectangular-bottomed box more round-cornered? Corners == very uneven heat. Or, maybe you don't care since you plan to mostly just use the hottest part in the middle of the coals over the blower hole?
4. Blower holes clog up. It's worth thinking about how you're going to unclog them while everything is hot. At least put a T with a big handle to release the hole on it where you join the vertical and horizontal pipes such that you can open it up and let the junk fall out (a bit like the galvanized part with 4 holes that you can twist open at the bottom of a Weber barbeque)

Cool project.

The fan I have should put out more then enough air, as long as I can keep the clinkers from building up. If it doesn't then I will have to add a larger one.
I never thought about insulation or seen it done that way, something to think about. Why would it be needed?
I am working on the design for the clinker breaker right now, it is one of the last things that I need to figure out

Thumper68
Sorry, I can't offer any suggestions based on experience on piping to draft from one outlet to another. The steel fabricated side draft that I worked at on occasion had a 10 inch round pipe outlet straight up through the roof. It "sucked" ok but probably would have drawn better with a 12 inch diameter pipe.

10 inch seems to be what everyone is using.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
Well today is the day, I finished it up (mostly, still need to work out how to get rid of the smoke) But I am headed out to the shop to start a fire.

Of course all I have to work with is green coal and my understanding is that it is hard to get the green coal burning, watched a bunch of video's and read a few threads last night, so we shall see how it goes.
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
WoooHooo!!

We have FIRE!!!

To be honest I was a bit concerned after reading about all the issues people have had getting green anthracite coal to fire off, and I am sure that I will have issues as well.

I started with a news paper and wood, got that going and started adding coal a bit at a time with low air flow, once the wood was burning well I increased the air flow and just watched and waited, soon enough I could see glowing coals in the pot, I played with the air flow a bit and after 20 minutes or so I had a good fire going.

I heated a few pieces of steel and pounded on them a bit, not trying to make anything but just to do it.

Now comes the fun part taking a chunk of steel and making something, first off I need a rake and poker. Probably a good thing that I have several lengths of 3/8ths rod to play with.
 

oldironfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
6,664
Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
I use sawdust to pick up oil on my shop floor. Oil soaked sawdust makes a great fire starter in the forge, clean out your fire of clinkers, throw a handful of sawdust in, light it with a match and cover it back up, turn the air on low and you'll have a quick fire. I can get a 3/8" round red hot in 3 minutes from striking the match. Faster than getting the cutting torch lit and adjusted.

You'll have plenty of coke from now on, just be sure to keep adding green coal around the fire to coke it while you're working.

And keep the air off when you're not heating or you'll burn up a lot of coal. Hot coke will stay hot with no air for a long as you can work hot metal. Don't know if you're using a speed control, but small fans will stall nicely, just shut off the air flow and electricity use will go down too. Most speed controls dump electricity through a resistor so they are not efficient.

Happy forging! Get used to it and you'll be using it instead of acetylene for lots of things.

If you want to use two flues into one chimney you need to plug the unused one, that's all. I use a 12-inch chimney.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I use sawdust to pick up oil on my shop floor. Oil soaked sawdust makes a great fire starter in the forge, clean out your fire of clinkers, throw a handful of sawdust in, light it with a match and cover it back up, turn the air on low and you'll have a quick fire. I can get a 3/8" round red hot in 3 minutes from striking the match. Faster than getting the cutting torch lit and adjusted.

You'll have plenty of coke from now on, just be sure to keep adding green coal around the fire to coke it while you're working.

And keep the air off when you're not heating or you'll burn up a lot of coal. Hot coke will stay hot with no air for a long as you can work hot metal. Don't know if you're using a speed control, but small fans will stall nicely, just shut off the air flow and electricity use will go down too. Most speed controls dump electricity through a resistor so they are not efficient.

Happy forging! Get used to it and you'll be using it instead of acetylene for lots of things.

If you want to use two flues into one chimney you need to plug the unused one, that's all. I use a 12-inch chimney.

Thanks for the tips, I use sawdust as well to clean up spills, I will have to start keeping the oil soaked stuff.

I did read that when you are done with the forge you should pack it with green coal so you have plenty of coke for the next firing and that is what I did today.
 

Slycox

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
221
Location
North Dakota
I don't know **** about forges but to light our coal fired boilers at work we use road flairs. Don't know if it would be to much for your application.
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I don't know **** about forges but to light our coal fired boilers at work we use road flairs. Don't know if it would be to much for your application.

That might be a bit of over kill :lol:

So far I am 2 for 2 on ignition.

It has evidently been a long time since I have swung a hammer all day, or even 30 minutes straight :lol_hitti my forearm seems a bit tired.

So far I have made one end of a rake and one end of a poker, I did the rake part of the rake, drawing out and bending the rake and doing a scroll and hook for the poker out of 3/8ths round bar.

Hoping to get some more time tonight to do a bit more with those and maybe see if I can make a pair of crude tongs.

After a bunch of reading I think I have decided to go with a powered vent hood at least for now.
 

wyo george

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
933
Location
Wyoming, USA
I may have to give it a go at building and running a forge, it's something I've always wanted to do and since I have an almost endless supply of free Wyoming sub-bituminous coal I figure why not. I'll be watching and studying, it'll be a good winter project I think.

G
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I may have to give it a go at building and running a forge, it's something I've always wanted to do and since I have an almost endless supply of free Wyoming sub-bituminous coal I figure why not. I'll be watching and studying, it'll be a good winter project I think.

G

Go for it!! :rocker:

No forge work today, there was an auction this morning and I picked up a few things and I need to get the spot where the forge is going cleaned out and the hood built.

As much as I want to hammer on stuff all day I know that if I take the time now to get it all set up properly I will be much happier.
 
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
Nice forge I wish I had seen that before l built mine

I would love to see more forges. post up some pics.

Honestly I have no idea how the one I built is going to work in the long run, I tried to pick the best ideas from all the forges I looked at and build them into mine. But since I have no idea what I'm doing it could turn out to be a complete failure or the best forge ever :lol:
 

landrover bodger

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2014
Messages
1,804
Location
norfolk england
a few of mine while I was building it . can you tell me the what that square you used for marking out is called . it looks very useful
 

Attachments

  • 001.jpg
    001.jpg
    145.3 KB · Views: 50
  • 002.jpg
    002.jpg
    139 KB · Views: 50
  • 003.jpg
    003.jpg
    147.9 KB · Views: 46
Last edited:
OP
T

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN

jumbojak

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
1,360
Location
Surry, VA
If you're burning the Kimmel anthracite from Tractor Supply don't worry too much about the coal coking. In my experience it doesn't. Then again you might come across a bag of coking anthracite from them. I found the Kimmel to be of erratic quality. Some bags would burn very cleanly while others would quickly load up the firepot with clinker.

Also, the bigger and straighter you can make the chimney for your hood the better. Two pieces of six inch chimney can be zipped together to give a good diameter when nothing else can be found. I'm told that a 55 gallon drum will **** the fleas off a dog if it gets too close. Best of luck and happy hammering.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom