building a hitch

[toplessHO]

I want to build a hitch to fit my custom application.
I will use 2.5 sq x 3/8 wall tubing and 3/8 plate for the ends
just need a receiver tube about 6 inches long.
I generally try and buy good stuff so not looking for Chinese.
any ideas?
want something suitable for class IV

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Try your local metal supply. My local shop has them pre cut in different lengths and sizes.

 

[sqznby]

Are you looking for just 2" square tubing?
I have some 2x2x1/4 I could cut some for yah.

edit: I was making these and have quite a bit of tubing.

 

[The Cobbler]

isin't the receiver tube broached?

 

[sqznby]

isin't the receiver tube broached?

Believe it or not, they sell just the collar.
https://www.delcity.net/curt?id=Tow...MI9LTFoKiw4QIVh4vICh0fiQE4EAQYAiABEgIRR_D_BwE

 

[toplessHO]

Are you looking for just 2" square tubing?
I have some 2x2x1/4 I could cut some for yah.

edit: I was making these and have quite a bit of tubing.

isnt it 2.5x2.5 x.25 wall?
and just a few thousands take off for slip fit of the 2 inch hitch?

 

[toplessHO]

I was looking at the Curt ones with the nice broached ends,but sadly according to the newest reviews it looks like they cheaped out and crimped the ends.

 

[sqznby]

isnt it 2.5x2.5 x.25 wall?
and just a few thousands take off for slip fit of the 2 inch hitch?

You're absolutely right. I had a brain fart and was thinking of the hitch.

I was looking at the Curt ones with the nice broached ends,but sadly according to the newest reviews it looks like they cheaped out and crimped the ends.

I agree. It was just for an example. They can be made as well.

 

[matt_i]

Usual advice to use 7018 stick welding, its a high-confidence part that affects the life of you, your family and others' families. Back up welds with gusset plates.

 

[toplessHO]

Usual advice to use 7018 stick welding, its a high-confidence part that affects the life of you, your family and others' families. Back up welds with gusset plates.

yea I got that part
have both an AC and DC machine and 7018 rods for both
mainly looking for the material

 

[BukitCase]

If your local steel supplier is as good as mine, they'll carry receiver tube (mine won't sell shorts, but I use quite a bit so no biggie) - the REAL stuff is basically just 2-1/2 x 1/4"wall, but both ID and OD are .030" over, so 2.530" OD, 2.030" ID.

My cost is about 10 cents a pound higher than other "normal" tubing sizes.

I mainly use the stuff for fixtures on my backhoe and tractors, so I usually don't worry about the buildup around the mouth, but when I need to either 7018 or MIG is fine, both are lo-hy... Steve

 

[bear40]

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&ipp=48&Ntt=trailer+hitch+tube

 

[joe_padavano]

I want to build a hitch to fit my custom application.
I will use 2.5 sq x 3/8 wall tubing and 3/8 plate for the ends
just need a receiver tube about 6 inches long.
I generally try and buy good stuff so not looking for Chinese.
any ideas?
want something suitable for class IV

Frankly, it's usually cheaper and easier to just find a commercial hitch that's at least as wide as you need, cut the mounting brackets off, and make new ones.

 

[driz]

Frankly, it's usually cheaper and easier to just find a commercial hitch that's at least as wide as you need, cut the mounting brackets off, and make new ones.

I had a homemade one break once . The guy that made it did a perfect job. It didn’t give the slightest warning either. That thing was built like a tank and it broke straight across the weld so you could see the penetration. No cracking, rust tracking ,porosity either, NOTHING. The part that seemed so weird was that it stayed perfect until that instant. All it did was scuff up the back of the truck , no biggy.

After that I decided to just buy one from now on. I’d rather have some lawyer chasing some faceless Chicom around than me. I still make up all sorts of stuff needing high strength but won’t do the hitch itself. I weld pretty good but nowhere near as good as the guy that made that old hitch that snapped


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[toplessHO]

well knock on wood
made a few before,One on my 3/4 ton 72 Chevy is still around 40 yrs later.
would be curious to see where yours broke.
Ive been scouring the junkyards looking for a class IV that fits my needs and as mentioned reweld the mounts,but so far havent found anything,Hence this topic.

 

[bugman53]

I am a automotive mechanical engineer, I have designed several hitches for the work truck industry. I will be happy to give you some material recommendations and help you with the gauge.

I will tell you from my experience stress does not always flow how you would think in the steel. What weight carrying capacity are you looking for?

 

[Bretny]

Hitches are so cheap i wouldnt make one even if i had the metal....and i didnt. I do actualy have the steel and just bought one for my yukon 2500. It was a class V and $121 shipped. Trailerjacks.com

 

[Milton Shaw]

Several years ago I saw a dovetail bed truck with a hitch with landscaping trailer behind it. He had come out of a steep commercial drive way that bound up the hitch and trailer. He broke the dovetail off the truck.The whole back end of the truck with the trailer still attached was sitting in the middle of the road. I bet that took some work to put it back on and give the strength it should have had to begin with.

 

[toplessHO]

I am a automotive mechanical engineer, I have designed several hitches for the work truck industry. I will be happy to give you some material recommendations and help you with the gauge.

I will tell you from my experience stress does not always flow how you would think in the steel. What weight carrying capacity are you looking for?

truck is only rated at about 5k
but I use the hitch for a carrier
so would like to get it up to 1K
hence the need for a class IV rated hitch.
Going tomorrow to look for one at JY.
that I can cut and weld.

 

[bugman53]

A 5k rated hitch is not hard at all to achieve as long as you have a strong frame to bolt or weld to. IE we use 5/16" A36 steel for the side plates on hitches up to 17k and with some side reinforcement up to 20k. Look Up SAE 684 it will guide you on what stress and strain the hitch needs to hold for the rating you are trying to achieve.

1/4 steel for the side plates should be OK depending on design. i would buy an off the shelf hitch cross tube from buyers products or curt and cut it to the length you need, Then Make you side plates to attach to your vehicle. I would MIG weld it with Dual Shield wire at 200+ amps to ensure full penetration of the welds.

Do you have a picture of the attachment point on your vehicle? Some of the newer uni-body cars have no place of real structure to attach to.

PS. I am not responsible if anything goes wrong. This is just advise, without seeing the entire hitch and doing stress analysis i can not be responsible if something goes wrong.

 

[welder4956]

I had a homemade one break once. The guy that made it did a perfect job. It didn’t give the slightest warning either. That thing was built like a tank and it broke straight across the weld so you could see the penetration. No cracking, rust tracking ,porosity either, NOTHING. The part that seemed so weird was that it stayed perfect until that instant. All it did was scuff up the back of the truck, no biggy.

Interesting. If it broke down the center of the weld, it sounds like the weld size was too small for the load. If it broke along the edge of the weld it could have been poor fusion, which is common for a small home size wire welder.

 

[UglySign]

Lol... I smashed my coffe cup just before on the door
then got new and sat down and thought the title was
'building a *****'. My eyes are going and time to clean the screen.
Carry on

 

[bugman53]

Interesting. If it broke down the center of the weld, it sounds like the weld size was too small for the load. If it broke along the edge of the weld it could have been poor fusion, which is common for a small home size wire welder.

I agree a weld should never break, It should tear at the edge of the weld in the heat affected zone if it fails. Typically the welds are specs with a large safety factor. Our supplier uses Spray arc to weld all points. In a heavy hitch we find the center receiver tube will tear out before the welds break.

If you can not spray arc Dual Shield mig wire with plenty of amperage is a great alternative as it makes a very crack resistant and ductile weld.

What i would NOT do under any circumstances. Any 110volt MIG no matter what, No 60xx series stick rods. If you must stick weld it use 7018 that is from a new container or has been stored in an oven.

Also NO sharp corners anywhere, Keep a radius on everything. If you have a sharp corner it is a stress riser and can cause a failure at that point.