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Building a Lauter Tun Sparge Ring

dr_clyde

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Holland, MI
The brewery needed a new sparge ring, and yours truly was tasked with building one. The old one was built in the 40's and just isn't very efficient. I thought it was a neat project, and thought you guys might be interested in how I made it.

What is a sparge ring? Well, basically its a fancy sprinkler. In the brewing of beer, there is a process called lautering. This is the separation of wort from the grain. During lautering you need to run water through the mash to extract residual fermentable sugars left in the grain bed. This is called sparging. There are a couple ways to do this, but the most efficient is to gently add water at the same rate that wort is being run off into the kettle. Gradually, the wort becomes weaker and weaker until you have extracted all the sugars you can.

So the brewers want to be able to sparge at 20 gallons a minute, and the flow of water needs to be consistent and gentle. We designed a split ring, filled with threaded ports. You could then thread in spray nozzles in the desired locations, add more, remove some, whatever you need to make the flow of water what it needs to be. Supply flow is metered by pump RPM and a ball valve.

To start, I had some 1.5" sanitary tubing rolled into two rings. I don't have a ring roller, but a friend of mine does, and I hired him to do the rolling. I had him get as close to 53" in diameter as possible. Since I would be doing this in halves, we didn't try to make one continuous ring, rather 2 that had at least a half circle of the correct diameter. This was the result, two of these.



I then clamped it to the table and got to work laying out the cuts. In the computer drawing I was able to suss where the cuts needed to be such that when the supply tube was added, the halves would for a perfect ring. I used a drywall square as a big combo square and the edge of the table as my datum. I did this on both sides.



I set up my laser to give me a plumb line to trace. I just lined up both marks under the line and traced the line with a sharpie.





A quick check on the side of the table confirmed my layout.



I cut the halves on my Do-All bandsaw. I left a little material, planning to file the two cuts straight and true on a plane.



I set the fresh cut parts on the surface plate to see how close I got.



Not bad, but could use a little touch up with a file.




Much better.



 
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dr_clyde

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Next up was the notching of the nozzle couplings. For these, I planned to use 1/2" NPT schedule 10 stainless half couplings. Workholding proved to be a fun exercise.

I ended up attaching two together finger tight with a close ****** then clamping them in a vee block in the vise.



I set up the old Cincinnati mill with an 1-1/2" cobalt corncob rougher, adjusted the feed dial to 7/8" IPM and my RPM to "2" on the crank. Not sure how many RPM that actually is, but seems like around 150-200ish. I let it feed in until the cutter just nicked the outer edge, then cut the feed. I'm using Trim E206 as a coolant/lube.



Worked like a dream.





Next up was the layout and drilling of the holes for the sprayers. For this, I just found the center of the half ring, then used trammel points to lay out each hole location. I forgot to get a photo of this, but its not that interesting anyway. So, I then clamped the part to the table on Bridgeport mill to cut the holes.



I used a wiggler with the pointer attachment to find each punch mark.





Once I found the hole location, I switched to a 3/4" endmill and popped the hole in.







Back on the welding bench, I had deburred all the holes and half couplings, and now needed a clever way to set them over the hole so they were all level. I ended up using a small toolmaker's knee and a 123 block to index each coupling off the table.





I put a plug in each coupling, tacked on 2 sanitary line ferrules, and let it purge upside down, so the argon would settle into the couplings, versus trapping oxygen in them as high spots. I also put a smidge of food grade anti-seize on the plugs so they wouldn't gall with the heat from welding.



I welded half the ferrules, then flipped the whole thing over to weld the couplings on.





I also welded up a custom sized tee and corresponding spacer to make the ring complete. Forgot to take pictures. I know. Something about working and getting absorbed into the process.

We put it all together for a test. Yep, water comes out the holes. Neat.





Then we added 4 nozzles, and plugged the rest of the holes.



Checking the force of the water.







Installed! Kinda hard to take a good photograph inside a dark, steamy lauter tun. You get the idea.





Thanks for looking.
 

MBfreak

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Linkoping , Sweden
Dr Clyde.

Real craftmanship.
A pleasure to follow the procedure.
Very well presented.
Also learned something about beer-making !

Best regards

Ola
 

BORING HOP YARD

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Jan 13, 2007
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Boring Oregon
Looks good, job well done.
That should go a long way washing the sugar from the grains.
I would also bet it will have a high efficiency and be very repetable.
 

PugetDude

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Superstition Mountains, AZ
Started my career 30+ years ago in the Stainless Tank and Pressure Vessel industry, always enjoyed the design, layout and fabrication of the working parts; much more interesting than the vessels themselves. We did a lot of work in the food products and wine industries, mostly 316SS.
Great job on the build and the documentation.
Thanks for posting it.
 
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-Brent-

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Utah
Thanks for the detailed thread. Excellent fab work. Looks like a fun job, too.
 

Kevin54

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Urbana, Ohio
Very nice job indeed!!!!! I had to get the dictionary out a couple of times to learn what a few words were I never heard of, and I had to read the title three times trying to figure out what you were trying to say. At first I thought someone had one too many last night and decided to make a post :lol:

Even though I know everything that you were doing in the thread, I had to look the pics over quite a few times. When machining is in your blood, pics and explanations like that is just pure good machining **** :thumbup::thumbup:

Again, very, very, nice job indeed. Now I'm thinking I could make some damn cool water sprinklers for the flower beds or lawn. using a "later turn spurge hung rung" :lol_hitti:beer:
 

Kevin54

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To start, I had some 1.5" sanitary tubing rolled into two rings. I don't have a ring roller, but a friend of mine does, and I hired him to do the rolling. I had him get as close to 53" in diameter as possible. Since I would be doing this in halves, we didn't try to make one continuous ring, rather 2 that had at least a half circle of the correct diameter. This was the result, two of these.

Doc......just out of curiosity, was it done with 2 halves, so you could adjust the lengths of the halves to give you the 53" diameter, or did you do it in halves just for the convenience of size for machining purposes?

And just a little idea for your layout table for larger things like you are doing, and may do in the future to make the table a little handier to work with. Take a couple of long pieces of barstock, whether it be steel, or aluminum, and something maybe in the 3/4" square or 1" square and put some dowel holes in, maybe 3 or 4 places equally spaced on each length of barstock. Then precisely layout the holes on your table so they correspond with the dowel holes in the barstock. You can get lengths of self sticking tape measure tape. Put this on the pieces of barstock so "0.000" is in the corner of the two pieces. This would give you a quick, reference, layout, and an edge to put your parts against, without having to set up a drywall square and clamp it, then clamp every thing else. Once you have two edges to bump up against, you then have your point 0.000 to start from.

I'm not lucky enough to have a large layout table with hole (yet), but hopefully can get one some day. We had a table at work though that we did that with, and it came in super handy. And all we had to do was lift off the barstock and store it underneath the table when not needed.

Just an idea to maybe help one out in the future.

And again...excellent work!!!!
 
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dr_clyde

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Holland, MI
Doc......just out of curiosity, was it done with 2 halves, so you could adjust the lengths of the halves to give you the 53" diameter, or did you do it in halves just for the convenience of size for machining purposes?

Thanks Kevin, I'll make up one of those stops. That's a great idea.

I built the ring in two halves for 2 reasons. One, we needed a split to put in the supply tee, and 2, we needed to fit the ring through the smallish doors on the lauter tun. A full ring would've gained us nothing but cost us ease of manufacture and installation.
 

Engine

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Kentucky
Very professionally done work. Thanks for showing all the steps involved in making the sparge ring. Makes me thirsty and crave a cold one from the local microbrewery.
 

kf4zht

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Mar 20, 2008
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Calhoun, GA
Very neat.

Though with all that fancy equipment and know-how you don't have enough buckets for each nozzle :). Must be nice to work somewhere than just about everything can be flooded and drained away.
 

03protege

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Sep 13, 2012
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Location
Louisiana
Very cool!!!!

For my home-brewery I have a 15" Sparge ring made with 3/8" tubing and a tee compression fitting. Just cut a bunch of tiny slits for the water exits.

Awesome getting to see a full size unit being made, thanks for that!
 
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