Building a loft

[Jesse69]

Building a loft.
Having a poled barn built 42x96 im going to build a loft 24’x42’ wanting to get some feed back on length and size of an LVL vs I beam to use with less pier supports as possible. It’s being built in a month from now so i can still add footings if needed. Wanting to use I beam and add 4x6 to center to attach hangers on and it will be not as tall as an LVL but maybe needed to attach 2 lvls together to get less height. Also cost is a factor. And input would be great. Jesse

 

[ace10]

Your joists are running 24'. You want them to be clear span?

This is a massive floor area.

 

[billconner]

What are you using to frame into this beam in the 24' dimension? Also, just storage or habitital living space on mezzanine?

I would assume a steel beam would need just one post, and an be thinnest, but could be most expensive.

Consider if you go with LVLs, upturning them so they are like a toe board at edge to reduce depth.

I wondered if an up turned truss might eliminate a mid span column, but certainly puts some loads at the ends. I could be the guard at the edge if mezzanine is open. Requires engineering.

 

[Jesse69]

Your joists are running 24'. You want them to be clear span?

This is a massive floor area.

Yes clear span if doable was thinking of lvls for a span of 36’ they will Connect to a bathroom wall

 

[Jesse69]

What are you using to frame into this beam in the 24' dimension? Also, just storage or habitital living space on mezzanine?

I would assume a steel beam would need just one post, and an be thinnest, but could be most expensive.

Consider if you go with LVLs, upturning them so they are like a toe board at edge to reduce depth.

I wondered if an up turned truss might eliminate a mid span column, but certainly puts some loads at the ends. I could be the guard at the edge if mezzanine is open. Requires engineering.

I’m looking into a structural engineer now due to wanting a clear span but maybe 1 post in center. Yes lvl are taller prefer I beam due to the 2” differentiaI? Is it worth it and not a living quarters yet. Who knows.

 

[jkuro]

Use a steel I beam. Go to your local steel supplier, they usually have an engineer on staff that can help you select the correct size.

 

[billconner]

36' span is probably in the 18" range for a steel beam supporting half of 24' deck - 12 x 36 x 10DL and 40LL - 21,600 pounds. The columns and footers will not be insignificant.

 

[mike93lx]

With the lvl, the joists don't have to sit on top, they can mount on hangers, saving a bunch of height.

The 42' span aside, the 24' span is going to need something significant too. Guessing I joists on pretty tight spacing, depending on the load.

This is going to be expensive and will have posts. Definitely hire an engineer. I'd be open to considering different depths as it could change the project cost significantly

 

[billconner]

I think there are i-joist hangers that will allow framing into a steel beam, wide flange or tube. In all cases not that hard to raise beam to be flush at bottom with bottom of i-joist.

 

[ace10]

...Also cost is a factor. And input would be great...

Cost for the floor joist material will run $100-150 per stick of I joist. With either 12 or 16" centers, depending on what the engineer says.

So that's $3150 minimum and double that on the max. Just for the joist materials.
$2 per foot for the subfloor. That's $2 grand there.
Steel and hardware will be subject to design.

Be prepared for a large number for this 1000sqft loft.

 

[mike93lx]

I think there are i-joist hangers that will allow framing into a steel beam, wide flange or tube. In all cases not that hard to raise beam to be flush at bottom with bottom of i-joist.

I would imagine so, but fastening to an I joist can't be as simple as an lvl, unless you had something fabricated with hangers in place, which feels unlikely if cost is an important factor

 

[billconner]

The simplest is a two-by in top of steel beam and hangers just attach to that with nails or screws. Pretty simple.

If you want 36' clear span, I'm skeptical LVLs will be efficient. It is 600 plf. I couldn't find one for a 32' floor beam supporting less than that. Maybe I looked at wrong charts.

Also how springy can you live with? Min L/180 is 2.4" at the center.

 

[Jesse69]

Cost for the floor joist material will run $100-150 per stick of I joist. With either 12 or 16" centers, depending on what the engineer says.

So that's $3150 minimum and double that on the max. Just for the joist materials.
$2 per foot for the subfloor. That's $2 grand there.
Steel and hardware will be subject to design.

Be prepared for a large number for this 1000sqft loft.

I dont want to spend a large sum, but also do not want to waist all that space either. Just trying to get opinions and Ideas.

 

[Jesse69]

As I’m looking also thinking 36’ is to much with 1 post, maybe ill add a shear wall 12‘ in with another post to make it more simple.

 

[mike93lx]

I dont want to spend a large sum, but also do not want to waist all that space either. Just trying to get opinions and Ideas.

If those prices are paletable, plus that cost again for labor if you won't be DIY'ing it, talk to an engineer about the design.

It's a lot of space and getting it back for storage would be great for sure.

Maybe considering some pallet racking instead may be a way to get some less expensive storage. They are already engineered, can be moved and can support lots of weight

 

[Jesse69]

If those prices are paletable, plus that cost again for labor if you won't be DIY'ing it, talk to an engineer about the design.

It's a lot of space and getting it back for storage would be great for sure.

Maybe considering some pallet racking instead may be a way to get some less expensive storage. They are already engineered, can be moved and can support lots of weight

That’s smart i will build a loft but that’s a great idea and my warehouse just broke down many of those Costco stlye racks Free if i need them. I used the couple to build a dirt sifter. But there must be a way to incorporate them.