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Building a Mobile Workbench

ckadams00

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Sep 12, 2011
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Seattle, WA
Well a bit intimidated after seeing the great work that IROC-Z28 is posting, but I thought I would share my build for others who are "Space Challenged". The whole point of this build is to make as much functionality into the smallest space possible (also I'm a crazy re-purposer, so it's gonna be cheap!). Nearly everything on this bench is recycled . . .actually, except for the CMan box (which was previously in my shop) EVERYTHING is recycled.

So: I have posted in the past (ages since updates, sorry) about my 169sq ft "shop". It's really great - a space I am thankful to have. But I can't actually do any dirty work in there - I hibernate in the winter and dream about getting outside to spray paint, make a mess with the table saw, etc.

I have a 2 car garage that is (too packed with ****) the primary place we keep our cars in the (Chicago) winters. It has an old cracked concrete floor, poor lighting, and although the PO slapped some nice aluminum siding on the outside, it is basically an UN-insulated 1930's structure. So: in the spring summer, I get all my work done happily in the driveway where I can spread out. So the challenge for this build is a mobile work cart that let's me do a lot of different tasks and can still be easily stored in a 2-car in the winter. I realize this isn't for everyone:beer: - but here's my build:

Step one: gather materials on the cheap. I work at a large hotel, and bed frames of various sizes are often thrown out (score!).


Also, I'm in charge of banquets/Food&Beverage. We use low clearance steel carts for moving stacks of tables, and there are many that have been abused and discarded over the years - still, the steel frames beg for a new life:


Both of these screamed out to me.:thumbup:
 
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ckadams00

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The bedframes were a bit of a bear to work with and drill out some rivets. The longer steel frames are 12 gauge steel and pretty beefy.

It's worth pointing out at this point that my brother bought me a Hobart Handler 140 Mig welder for XMas/My birthday and this is a great excuse to start welding. You will notice that I'm not going to get in close enough to show you my welds, but in the immortal words of my lil' brother "you're not building a racecar - grind it!"

I couldn't cut steel without a chop saw, so I picked up a clearance "tool shop" piece of C**p from Menards - for $60 I thought it was actually a pretty good deal. It worked, well, like ****. I figured a better blade might help and bought a thinner brand name at HD - sure enough made a HUGE difference and the cutting commenced.

Here is a side view of the cart frame. Without the wood cross braces it has a hell of a twist in it, so the first step was stiffening up what will become the bottom frame with some cross pieces.


Planning on some of the cross bracing to stiffen the lower frame:


This will give you an idea of the twisting going on I started with - keep in mind this is a 22" by 6' frame.





Finally got some cross braces in place and the sucker is flattening out.


This in going to be my lower frame (inverted).
 
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ckadams00

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The original idea for this came from this article:
http://christophermerrill.net/ww/plans/UTS/Tool_Stand_1.html
I liked a few things about it: 1 - I wanted something thin (2 feet) so that it could hug a wall. 2- I like the concept of "pods" that could be popped in and out of the table top. 3- It makes sense that the table can be used as an outfeed table for a table saw. 4- Portability was key since in the summer everything I do is in the driveway.

I was going to build this table as is out of plywood, but . . .well, I got a welder and have access to scrap bed frames, so . . . .probably going to go the combo route!
 
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ckadams00

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Upended the frame and attached some 5" locking casters to the base. The wheels are a bit "plasticky" (Menards, but NOT cheap). I debated getting some of the cool blue/red poly wheels but these were big and had beefy locking tabs on them - something important since I'm gonna be working in the driveway. I am going to figure out a way to level this sucker with some adjustable legs as well if possible.
I have a spare CMan mid box (black box in the photo) that I picked up at Sears for cheap, so it's gonna have a place on this cart for storage. Right now I'm determining that a 1/2 inch wooden base (the wood strips you see)
will put it at the height I want.
I fabbed two supports out of the bed frames to go over it. You'll have to wait and see why.

The wood strip on top was just to check for level.

I guess I don't have a photo like I thought I did - but the steel "Metro" shelf you see in the background is one of about 20 I grabbed for free from a restaurant going out of business. I'm planning on layering the lower deck with these - even if I need to cut them - so that **** can fall through them but I can still pile items like a metal chop saw on the lower deck.

BTW the holes in the frame you see on the left are where the removable cart handle goes. I have to grind out some weld "stops" since it is upside down, but I plan to use them and the handle to move this sucker.
 
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ckadams00

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This is a pretty heavy duty Case file cabinet that I'm also planning on putting on the bench. It will server as storage for all my welding supplies and also as a base for my welding top. Might repaint at some point.


 
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ckadams00

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The posts on the end are 13" which gives me just enough clearance over the tool box. I'm thinking the gap on the right will be storage. The middle sections are 20" - this will be a second shelf support and will be where any "modules" I build will live.:thumbup:

Love to hear your thoughts before I get too far into this!?!?!?!?!:shocking:
 
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js289

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May 13, 2014
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Old bed frames? my old man laughs when i grab them! free angle iron!
 

beakie

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Feb 21, 2014
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Ontario, Canada
my only suggestion, would be to mount the Craftsman box as high as you can under the work surface. you can still lay stuff under it, but bending over to use the drawers is gonna get old if you use them often.
other than that, looking good, and I like the idea of a multi-level table (if you add a work surface above Case cabinet) so you can work on dif sized projects @ dif heights depending on comfort and size.
 
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ckadams00

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Starting to come together! Sorry for the lapse in updates - work has been getting in the way!


This is my welding top. I know most on this site have giant 1/2" welding tables that weigh 300lbs. I'm very much a weekend warrior and wanted something that will just work for me. This is an old umbrella stand - 3/8" thick and 24" across. I ground the paint off it and it is thick enough for my needs.


Built up a platform for my Ryobi table saw. I have a larger CMan cabinet saw as well, but this little gem has so many bells and whistles that I can't part with it - it just works great 100% of the time. My plan was to make it the same height as the weding surface (32").
There is a VERY thin drawer (what you see sticking out) being built under the saw - I'll put pegs in there for saw blades.
 
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ckadams00

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The table you see in the background (sorry, I'm so ADD) is another project: another rolling workbench. I do almost all of my work in the summer in the driveway, so I need things I can move. I tried B&D workmates, etc and these just annoy me because there isn't any real workspace. Picked up a steel Boroughs workbench for $80 from a Marshall's that was going out of business (http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1136-STEEL/Packing-Tables/60-x-36-Steel-Top-Packing-Table) and put an old Metro wire shelf on the bottom along with some locking casters



I'll put my little 6gal compressor on this and run some air hose to a quick release built into the frame.
 
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ckadams00

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This is a 10" cast iron collar from an elevator shaft that they just removed from the hotel I work at. I spot welded it to the bottom of the table, cut a hole into the wood top that sits between the table and the file cabinet(with about 1/16 of play), and boom, the welding top can be rotated 360 degrees.

 
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ckadams00

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Seattle, WA
The original plan was to have the welding table double as an outfeed table to the table saw, but then I changed the orientation of the saw 90 degrees, so I made sure that my other mobile table was the same height. Still, if I want to lower the sawblade and use the table top as a working surface (with a pop in module/box cabinet in the center) I'm headed in the right direction.

 
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