Building a new truck bed

[bergheger3]

I’m working on my 53 f100 and I’ve decided to build a new bed from scratch. I was thinking of using 16 gauge for the bed sides but the more I think about it I’m thinking of using 14 gauge.

Has anyone build bed sides and if so what gauge have you used.

 

[Jazz1]

I did not build bed sides but did replace the bed floor using 14 gauge in my '41 IHC. 16ga is still pretty heavy for the sides but better nothing wrong with a thick skin. We did make the tailgate and gas tank with left over 14 ga from the sheet used in floor.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/22832895@N08/13426321333/in/album-72157627714792392/

 

[txvwnut]

Friend of mine did for a T bucket style pickup. Used 16ga for everything and used 16ga tubing to make the edge roll on top of the sides and for the rolls on the tailgate.

 

[BryceW]

If you want to stamp, bead roll, dimple, or otherwise form anything you'll have to take your tooling into consideration. If all you're doing is flat panels then the heavier gauge steel will have a better resistance to warping when you are cutting/welding and just generally make life easier. The trade off is that if you use lighter gauge material and form it (probably by bead rolling) it will be more rigid than if you use heavier material and leave it flat.

Maybe MP&C will chime in, he's a sheet metal magician.

 

[fiftyv8]

I built several replica Model A pickup boxes and used 1.2mm material, sorry I don't know what that is in USA gauge measurements.

That was sure thick and was at about the limit of the industrial bead roller I had access to.
All folding was done with a large industrial hydraulic unit.
The 1.2mm material would have been impossible to work at home with most equipment the average guy would own.

I also discovered that when running beads in such thick material, where I had a say 90 degree turn or change in direction (corners), I could not achieve a clean decent impression and I ended up making a metal two piece block to be placed over the corners and pressed to improve the neatness and definition of the belt lines.

 

[BukitCase]

1.2mm = .047244", or just a bit thinner than 18 ga. -

http://www.advantagefabricatedmetals.com/gaugeindecimals.html

HTH... Steve

 

[fiftyv8]

If anybody has a Gauge to mm conversion chart or similar that they would like to post, I sure would be interested.

I believe the term gauge even varies between different countries.
That sure would make things interesting...
Talk about lost in translation.

 

[MP&C]

25.4mm=1 inch. So divide the metric size by 25.4 and it will be the US decimal equivalent. 1mm = .039, or 19 gauge, 1.2 = .047, or 18 gauge, etc.


For your bed sides, are you planning on a tube at the top, any beadwork in the sides, ???

 

[bergheger3]

Thanks for all the replies. The bed side will be smooth but I will put a tube across the top. Probably .120 wall 1.5" ERW.

 

[BukitCase]

Gauge = mm = Inch Conversion Chart -

https://www.gessweincanada.com/category-s/11324.htm

HTH... Steve

 

[MP&C]

One of the challenges you will find is to weld the sheet to the tube without distortion. I.E.: when the weld shrinks, it normally pulls the tube to form a noticeable bow, as well as the sheet.. And just like the pitfalls of flanged seams, once joined together it is near impossible to planish anything to remove said distortion. This is why most manufacturer's roll the top edge in forming the tube shape, no distortion from welding.


As another option, I looked up bed sides for your truck, and they cost in the neighborhood of $300, and come complete with corner stake pockets. I can't make them that cheap, so unless you have a nicely equipped machine shop at your disposal with plenty of time over lunch, the purchase may be the best option. If you do have access to a machine shop and/or a finger brake, making some dies similar to the following would help to make the top roll. I would fold a flange first, to be used to spot weld to the "side panel" and then bend around the die shown. Spring back will have your tube slightly open, but clamping the flange to the side for spot welding should close things up.

 

[fiftyv8]

BukitCase, thanks for posting the link to that Gauge Chart.

Mucho gracias...

 

[fiftyv8]

I just got another gauge chart sent to me and probably better explains my head scratching.
It seems there is a British Gauge Standard as well as a USA Gauge Standard.

http://www.mesteel.com/cgi-bin/w3-msql/goto.htm?url=/info/carbon/thickness.htm

I hope it helps other also...

 

[toplessHO]

what about welding the pipe to the sheet and rolling it all the way around ,then cutting the sheet half an inch back from the welds.That should eliminate the distortion.

 

[wrenchguy]

Heres mine i built for a 06 cab and chassis i ordered. Made from 14ga. s/steel floor plate. its kinda service truck style with integrated top load toolboxes on each side. boxes are low as i tow gooseneck with this rig often. HUGE PLUS IS A BUD WITH PLATE FAB SHOP!!!!!!

good luck with ur project.

 

[wrenchguy]

OP, Google results.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...gws-wiz-img.......0i7i30j0i8i7i30.knKVVcp9NRU

https://www.google.com/search?q=vin...1u7gAhUHfisKHXPMCIwQ_AUIDygC&biw=1600&bih=757

 

[Perrorojo]

Don't forget about the weight. All that sheet metal adds up on an old truck. I redid a bed on a 36 ford truck that the previous owner made from 14ga and it ha to be 600lbs with all the framing underneath.

 

[MP&C]

Some we added bead detail to at a class in the shop...

 

[bergheger3]

Thanks for all the replies. This helps a lot. Once I get going on the project I’ll try to post some pictures. (I’m really bad at taking pics along the way)

 

[bergheger3]

Here’s a couple pics of the chassis so far

 

[gofastwclass]

Is that a Corvette rear suspension? If so you aren't going to want the box to be too heavy with the low ride height and mono leaf. Just something to consider.

 

[bergheger3]

Yes corvette front and rear. Mono leaf is gone (to stiff for the truck) replacing it with ride tech shockwaves front and rear.

But good point thanks.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Hello bergheger3, nice work.
I have the same corvette rear under my 56, let my know if you need and pictures of how I did things. Have you given the rear wheel spacing any thought, I went with wider rear fenders.

 

[bergheger3]

wider fenders will be my route as well. I am thinking about widening the bed a little to make the bed sides closer to the width of the cab. If I decide to go that route I will have to tub the rear a little. I have 20x10's going in the back.

I would love to see some pictures

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

I will send what I had in my shop camera, let me know if you have any requests.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Hope this helps.

 

[gofastwclass]

Nice truck Boring.

 

[bergheger3]

Very cool. Thanks for the pics very similar to what I was planning. What brakes did you use? I’m looking at wilwood’s all the way around.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

I went with the stock Corvette because it was easier for the parking brake and a concern.
I run wilwood's on the race car and there very good brakes.
A concern I had about Wilwood's is they don't have any type of weather seal to keep dirt / water out. No seal around the piston to the caliper body like most OEM's run.
Never been an issue on the race car and we race in the rain all the time.
I searched to internet for a long time about if the lack of a seal is an issue, I came away thinking it was more a preference. Sounded like people would not use them based on the lack of seal but I found very little about calipers going bad as a result of no seal.
The front brakes are Jag XJ6 with massive 4 piston calipers.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Thank you Gofastwclass

 

[drewski]

You might look at my build on my 55 F100. I built the bed, tailgate and running boards for my truck. My build is really low buck, might not be your cup of tea. Photobucket screwed up my thread back when they took everybody hostage and I haven't done much to it in several years. Still playing with the truck, just haven't posted much.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98595

 

[bergheger3]

Love your truck. That really similar to what I was thinking for my bed.

How did welding the the sides to the round bar work out with regards to warping?

 

[drewski]

Love your truck. That really similar to what I was thinking for my bed.

How did welding the the sides to the round bar work out with regards to warping?

Didn't have a problem, but was very careful about too much heat in any area. I skipped around a lot with my spot welds. Also my bedsides were 14 gauge.