Building a Rolling Working / Weld Table

[STI_MECE]

Wanted to bounce something off you guys.

I have a lip in my garage where my tool box and future workbench are Gunna sit.

The lip is 3inch tall and 3' deep before it steps down.

This was our first home and it was by a track home builder.....I'll stop there with that [emoji849] lol

This bench will be made for everything and I want to roll it around and get it off the wall for welding and grinding.

I will share this idea soon whenever I draft it on my computer. But basically it involves two casters in-between the main legs if the bench. Then putting a trailer jack wheel on the outside and when I need it, I'll use the trailer jack wheel to get the weight over the lip and slide it off the back faster in between the frame.

The water loop is no longer there anymore. I have a sink on the right side then it's my tool box, and then my workbench will fill in the rest

I have not been able to find anyone who built a bench that had a lip like this.

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[619DioFan]

Not sure how big of a work bench you are planning but I would simply build a removable short ramp ( we call them curb ramps in the moving industry ) and roll it down, a three inch rise is not much. you can store the ramp anywhere.

 

[STI_MECE]

Now that you mention it I suppose you are right...3inches is nothing.

I was more focused on not being able to keep the bench lined up while pushing it up the ramp butttt I'll just make the wedges wider.

And this is why I like these forums. Talking out loud helps.

Now my post ust takes up space lol [emoji849]

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[Jackfre]

The problem i see with your idea is that unless you are really fastidious in bench cleaning/organization moving a welding bench which I assume will have some weight to it will be tough. Replacing it on the step may require a bit of rigging to let you move one side a bit and secure it and then push the other end. Have you considered a slide out portion of maybe a fold up leaf elsewhere in the space. I lined my metal area walls with 4x8' sheet metal to better handle the grinding debris. I should have gone higher. It would be good protection for those nice sheetrock walls.

 

[STI_MECE]

right now my plan is to have a bench top of maximum 6'x2.5' (LxW), the frame will be built out of 3x3x1/4inch tubing but it wont be built to the extents of the bench top i will have a lip.

Right now im trying to decide on the bench top, i want a 1/2inch thick steel top, but I will have to get it cut down to size. I want to be able to beat or whale on this bench if i have to and not have it budge or delfect. And with the size I want, the top would be around 300-310 pounds by itself.

And the weight of 3x3x.25 square tubing is around 8lbs/ft so a 450-500lb bench frame and top.

I need to call my still mill to see how much they would charge me for that top. I still havent figured that out. its 130 bucks 20' of 3"x3"x.25"

I would like to get it off the lip if i have to and in middle of garage if I am trying to weld something that requires me to overhang it from multiple sides

 

[astroracer]

Build two 12" wide ramps. 3/4" plywood and a couple of layers to build the back up to the curb height. Throw them under the bench when it is on the platform or just hang them on the wall, out of the way. Two ramps will be "adjustable" to the width of what ever you want to roll up there.
Mark

 

[strength_and_power]

If you are using swivel casters, they will trail as they go up the ramp. When you go to come down the ramp, they will want to rotate 180* as they start to roll which there isn’t room for the wheels closest to the lip so things may get wonky. Not a huge deal if you are moving the table once every few months, daily or weekly, that’d get annoying real fast.
Consider using C-channel for your ramps so the wheels can’t roll off the side. Make the ramps a decent length, 18-24” with a hole or tab and matching peg on the table leg to hang them vertically along the table leg when not in use.


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[STI_MECE]

If you are using swivel casters, they will trail as they go up the ramp. When you go to come down the ramp, they will want to rotate 180* as they start to roll which there isn’t room for the wheels closest to the lip so things may get wonky. Not a huge deal if you are moving the table once every few months, daily or weekly, that’d get annoying real fast.
Consider using C-channel for your ramps so the wheels can’t roll off the side. Make the ramps a decent length, 18-24” with a hole or tab and matching peg on the table leg to hang them vertically along the table leg when not in use.


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I just thought of that funny enough. thats what i was thinking about going with a 1' wide wedge ramp to account for the swivel but you are right, it would get even more annoying with the casters rotating 180 degrees when trying to get the bench off and over the gap between the lip and the edge of ramp.

 

[lis2323]

I can’t visualize you being happy with ramps and the weight you’re planning on for the weld table. To say 3” isn’t much is nonsense.

Is there anyway you can jackhammer that lip put and refinish the floor? IF it is possible I’d go that route. Lots of work initially but worth the effort.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

If you are using swivel casters, they will trail as they go up the ramp. When you go to come down the ramp, they will want to rotate 180* as they start to roll which there isn’t room for the wheels closest to the lip so things may get wonky. Not a huge deal if you are moving the table once every few months, daily or weekly, that’d get annoying real fast.
Consider using C-channel for your ramps so the wheels can’t roll off the side. Make the ramps a decent length, 18-24” with a hole or tab and matching peg on the table leg to hang them vertically along the table leg when not in use.


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I just thought of that funny enough. thats what i was thinking about going with a 1' wide wedge ramp to account for the swivel but you are right, it would get even more annoying with the casters rotating 180 degrees when trying to get the bench off and over the gap between the lip and the edge of ramp.

Pretty sure you can eliminate that problem by just having swivel casters on the back legs- those that are closest to the wall.

 

[STI_MECE]

Yes that is true but the C channel is still a pretty efficient way to getting the bench up and down.

I'm Gunna make a track, and when it needs to roll down I'll pin the ramp to the track it's sitting on top of so the ramp won't slide out whenever that first wheel is trying to roll over.

Don't they make casters that can lock directions but not lock the wheel physically?

I own alot of harbor freight **** and everything I got from them except my engine hoist has it setup where there is rollers on one end and then casters on the other.

Makes moving heavy **** around really difficult

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[tarmy]

Had the exact same situation in my garage...after tripping on it too many time...I cut it out. That freed up space, avoided injury and made the garage more efficient.

 

[bullnerd]

I'm with lis, or I'd build out that whole section with a bench and cabinets, and make the main floor.....the floor, and keep the rolling bench on the floor.

 

[STI_MECE]

Well I have a post tensioned slab. But I'm not willing to cut that section of the garage floor out.i know the cords are deeper than that but I ain't screwing with it because they will some how say I destroyed the integrity of my foundation and that's why the foundation cracked on the other side of the house and they can't accept my warranty claim (hypothetically speaking)

I do not have any room to keep that bench anywhere but where where I plan on putting it.

I have a hell cat in the third car garage section that I don't like waking up unless I have to get into the Attic, the middle port is where my wife's car goes in and out

And I have a supercharged 5.0 92 Fox body (only 21k miles on the original motor, one owner [emoji41])

I have a two stage 69 gallon air compressor on in the back of the third car section,

I have a 44inch wide and 60inch tall kobalt box.

And the wall left wall on the garage has three shelves filled to the brim with car detailing stuff.

It's safe to say I can not put this bench anywhere else.

I should have asked the builder to not put the lip in, but we were the first to build in this section and that lip wasn't in the plans. But I can't change time so I gotta deal the cars I'm dealt with. I need to draft this up.

It's not Gunna come down off the lip all the time. When I need to weld some fence together for my father in law, or putting frames together I need to pull it off the lip. But that won't happen often but it will happen.

But that's why I'm hear. I know it's not ideal to have the lip. But that's why I brought the question up. Cutting it out is the easy answer. Making it easy to push it up and down the lip, that takes some ingenuity.

Let me work on this and I'll share it when I have it put together.

So far the feed back on trying to make it work has gotten my wheels going further enough to put some complete plans together.

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[Lassen Forge]

For the life of me, I could never figure out why builders do that... my in-laws place had a similar set up, and dad's answer was to build a permanent workbench over it so it would quit sticking in his craw.

I was thinking something like a overlay pour or maybe some kind of flooring system to build up the difference...

 

[STI_MECE]

I have heard so if your backing out and slowly let off the brake if you accidentally put it in drive then at least the lip is there is there to bump stop it...

It's dumb to say the least. Ask me why they put the water loop dead freaking center on that lip. Completely forgot to ask where the tie in was for the water softener and then I saw that and was like ****....

Had a plumber push the loop back in the wall and make the loop come out of the top of the wall and relocated the softener

But yeah it beats me! And I sure as hell have a heck of a plan for my next house and it's Gunna be a custom one.

I tell you I have thought about everything under the sun to make it work for me without doing something insane but the ramp idea with the C channel is the only way to really "put up" with it.

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[HotrodHR]

Most newer homes with attached garages have a curb or "lip" especially when there's an entrance into the living space. Don't ask me why, I've heard protecting against chemical spills, etc. but who knows.

I'd ditch the roll on and off bench idea and do a stationary bench, or cabinets with built in tool storage (could be a tool box or two). Remove the casters for a built in look (plenty of examples on GJ). Add some upper cabinets and make this a nice workspace.

 

[STI_MECE]

So here is a rough mock.

It's 3x3x1/4inch tubing all around. C4x5.4 on the bottom for tracks.

All the details of casters and the hydraulic jack and feet are left out. Small details. Just had to figure out how much of the tubing I needed from still mill.

I would like to bend the c channel, I got a oxy-fuel and for lighter things a map torch.


I was going to bend it over the lip and pin the flat track with the bent one whenever I need to roll it.

The plate is sitting on top of a rectangular frame and holes counter synced.

I am definitely one for function over looks. I'm not there to have a nice garage I'm there to work.

Next garage I'll worry about making it nice I just need function and as much of it as possible.

Also don't want cabinets because out of sight out of mind. Use it or lose it.

Garage shots are when we just moved in and got my cars (rip racecar Miata) sold for new 4runner for with and future babies.

The air compressor isn't in the picture but it's under the tire rack to the left in the corner.

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[kingston]

i'm with lis, or i'd build out that whole section with a bench and cabinets, and make the main floor.....the floor, and keep the rolling bench on the floor.

^^^^this or buy a forklift^^^^

 

[Kaizen]

Think I’d just weld proof the area with sheet metal if it’s worrying you.
Using six inch wheels you should be able to lift it enough without making an overly complicated ramp.
3x3 1/4 inch is twice what this needs to be unless you are using 3/4 steel on top.


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[bullnerd]

Ahhh...so this is your wifes garage! Now it makes sense! lol!

Just kidding.

Sell the cat thing, that's just taking up space if you dont drive it. Park the mustang outside (it's just a mustang) Thats two problems solved.

Now for the third, Make an extra set of legs on each end of the bench also with castors, but telescoping. When the first set of legs gets out over the step, drop them down and lock them...move the bench the rest of the way out so the last set of legs is still on the step, and lower the other set. You'll have a "walking" bench!

 

[PugetDude]

For the life of me, I could never figure out why builders do that... my in-laws place had a similar set up, and dad's answer was to build a permanent workbench over it so it would quit sticking in his craw.

I was thinking something like a overlay pour or maybe some kind of flooring system to build up the difference...

BOCA (National Building Code)
--1978, Section 413.1.1: "The sills of all door openings between the garage and dwelling shall be raised not less than four inches above the garage floor."
--1999, Section 407.5 "The sills of all door openings between private garages and adjacent interior spaces shall be raised not less than 4 inches above the garage floor"

 

[QwikKotaTx]

That raised area is dumb, I have that nonsense in my garage and it's nothing but a trip hazard and pain for workbenches and toolboxes. My garage is even detached and it has it. I have a bench on mine but it's permanent. That welding table you are talking about sounds like a beast to get back up there. Maybe with HD casters and the ramp it could work but I would not want to move it back up often.

 

[STI_MECE]

Changed up my too frame alittle bit. The 3x3x1/4inch tubing is 160 bucks for 24 feet. I was going to get 2 pieces of stock based on my measurements.

Ran a few more calculations and some C4x4.5 is going do the trick and is 72 bucks for 20 ft err maybe 24ft.

I am sticking welding this together and I have only been practicing maybe only have 4 hourss of practice since I got it a month ago.

Gunna put a self on the bottom of the bench. Probably will go with angle on that. I will probably add some bar under the middle of the bench top.

6inch rolling steel casters.

I'm completely new to fitting joints up but I put this together with that in mind.... probably going to go with 6010 3/32. Although I'll probably just end up using the 1/8 I already got but I just gotta move faster. And some framing square's and clamps

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[CraigStu]

I'd swap the bench and toolbox locations. I know you will usually move the bench to do heavier work but I suspect there will be times when it's a smaller job and not worth the trouble. If you have the bench at the right end you could maybe get away w/ not moving it for every job. I'd also look at maybe a 4 ft ramp all the way along that hump. I am not sure how long it would need to be so the slope isn't real noticeable but a 4x8 sheet of plywood would make an easy test to see if it's feasible.

 

[619DioFan]

If you are using new clean metal I would use 7018 rod over the 6010. make sure you have a couple of long ratchet straps ( ones that if they get burns it doesn't matter ) to help keep the frame square during welding ( especially when doing the legs )