Building a shop/hangar. Simple questions.

[JackQT]

I say they're simple. . .I just don't have anybody else to ask

1) Simple(est) thing first. . .is it cheaper to go up or out? 50x70x20 or 60x80x16 for example?

2) Has anybody done a partial 2nd story with living quarters in it on a less-than-20' building?

3) Doing metal frame rather than wood, should I get the builders to frame up the floor for the 2nd story part, or try to do that with wood later in the process?

4) Got a quote from Schweiss for a 35' bifold door. Anybody have other recommendations?

If I put living quarters on a 2nd story, something like 50x20, I'm worried about ceiling height if I go less than 20' walls. I know I'll gain some from the slope of the roof, and that might be enough to allow me to go shorter walls.

If I do go 20' walls, that's a huge above-floor space that I can't really use. Which lead me to looking at the saltbox style buildings.

 

[csp]

If there's concrete involved, up is usually cheaper than out.

 

[nadogail]

In reality, your location is a determining factor in the costs.

 

[Ruthless53]

We have 3 or 4 big hangars now and have had quite a few different doors. There is really only one to get. Let me get the name for you but its very simple operation and the seals are amazing. We always had to fight the bugs/leaves/loss of conditioned air until we built these last few hangars with these doors. Give me a few minutes and Ill ad the name.

Higher Power is the door you want!!
https://www.hpdoors.com/products/hy...r general aviation and commercial jet hangars.

 

[larry_g]

IF you run the second story from sidewall to sidewall then roof pitch determines how much usable room you have 'upstairs'. If you look at my build below you will see that the up stairs room has ~25' of usable headroom in a 36' building. The roof is a 1/4 pitch. So do the math to see what you end up with.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[VocaTexas]

I'm building my own bifold doors on my shop. I modeled them off the Schweiss design. One is a 15 high by 20 wide, the other is a 12x12. A good welder in your area should be able to build you one.

 

[CraigStu]

I'd look into code regs first. From what I understand, as soon as living space is involved, that can often involve a huge change in code requirements.

 

[JackQT]

Thank you, gentlemen!

I like the "build it yourself" option on the door. . .but that hydraulic setup from High Power is attractive.

Larry, I'll eyeball your build. . .I'm okay losing some headroom on the edges. If we do 50x70 I'd have enough "middle" for living quarters, and could use the smaller ends for storage.

And (thankfully) in very rural Oklahoma code regs don't apply. Build what you want, and if it falls on your head, well, you should have built it differently! I'll still follow best practices. . .

 

[dcg9381]

1) Simple(est) thing first. . .is it cheaper to go up or out? 50x70x20 or
60x80x16 for example?


In general, it's cheaper to go up (less concrete). There is a limit to that, however - ask your installer about when it starts to get hard or what their practical limits are on height.


2) Has anybody done a partial 2nd story with living quarters in it on a less-than-20' building?


Yes. But consider the depth of the floor used to support the 2nd story and plan accordingly for the type of aircraft you need to get in the hanger. A low wing Cirrus is different than a bi-plane or Pilatus. Also note - around here hanger space goes for good money (rental).

I have a 16' eve shop. I can get a 2nd floor in - but remember that a floor eats about 12" of depth and my 2nd floor would be low ceiling.. 20' would be a lot better, but not sure if I could then fit airplanes.



3) Doing metal frame rather than wood, should I get the builders to frame up the floor for the 2nd story part, or try to do that with wood later in the process?

I've seen it done both ways, but around here it's most common framed as a span in steel or as a mezzanine (steel). With the price of wood right now, the answer is steel anyway.