building a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

[carhunter]

I scored some nice 2x8x8' S4S pine and was thinking about building a simple bench top to mount my vise, shear and other tools.

Whats a simple way to build a sturdy bench top, without turning it into a week long project

How about trimming the rounded edges from the lumber with a table saw for a nice flush fit, drilling through the boards horizontally and joining with 3/8 thread rod. (of course counter-sinking the holes for nuts).

Maybe even stagger the boards to end up with a 12 or 16' bench.

Would you top it with melanite (sp?) or sand and stain the boards? I don't have a plane but could use a belt sander.

Any suggestions?

 

[carhunter]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

d'oh! Edit title to say "building" LOL...

 

[38Chevy454]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

You can put anything on the top over the 2x8's you wish. That would make a nice flat smooth surface. No need to trim the edges of the boards. Just put some 2x crossmember pieces and attach the 2x8's to that. You don't need to drill and put all-thread. If you really want to make it tight, just glue them together with clamps until dried. BUt screwing it down to some 2x crossmembers will keep it fine.

 

[Outlawmws]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

I'd top your base top with a Formica Kitchen counter top, in fact that's what I have done about 3 times now!

As suggested glue and clamp the boards edge to edge (with the counter top, no need to cut the rounded edges...), and on the back one glue and screw it in an "L so you can anchor that one to the wall. 2X4 framing under it to support the top, and go! I'd "skin" the outside frame with play (doesn't need to be thick) to help stabilizing the frame and if you don't attach to the wall do the back as well.

 

[carhunter]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

I'd top your base top with a Formica Kitchen counter top, in fact that's what I have done about 3 times now!

That's a great idea but I should've mentioned I'm going for a rustic look. Also, I'm not sure formica would hold up to a 3 ton arbor press or a small ironworker shear?

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

This site may give you some ideas/plans to build what you need -

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=485

 

[Outlawmws]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

That's a great idea but I should've mentioned I'm going for a rustic look. Also, I'm not sure formica would hold up to a 3 ton arbor press or a small ironworker shear?

The Formica top is just a clean surface and the substrate takes the abuse. In my case my substrate is 2X4's on edge, glued and screwed together and will take about anything I can throw at it. I have a big Parker on top and while I once ripped the bench loose from the wall (Use lag bolts not deck screws...), the top hasn't cared...

Sort of a moot point if you are looking for "rustic". (Why mention Melamine then? ) In that case, I'd still glue them together, and still put one 2X8 on the back side, only with that "look" I'd glue and screw it to the top in a "T" so you have a backsplash, as there is NOTHING more frustrating than to have something roll off the back of a bench and disappear behind it...

Also for the rustic look, leave the rounded edges. it's more "authentic" and less "finished".

 

[KEH]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

You will find it difficult, if not impossible, to drill holes across 8 inches and get them to line up. As others said, its not necessary.

If you want a rustic look and leave the top of the pine exposed sawing the rounded edges is a good idea. Also, this has the benefit of making the edges straight so they will join together with out cracks(hopefully).

KEH

KEH

 

[Falcon67]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

Build a good, solid support frame under the top, then just lay your 2x8s on that, edge to edge. A good under frame will keep the boards in place and make for a solid, sturdy bench. Doesn't have to be high buck - 2x4s and 3" deck screws can make things pretty stout. Stain the top with a dark brown stain and it'll look like grandpa's bench.

 

[carhunter]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

(Why mention Melamine then? )

LOL...Dad used it on a bench he built in the 60's, he still has it. Just crossed my mind as an 'old' look I guess.

Thanks for the ideas guys.

 

[yucholian]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

Here is the bench I built last month using nothing but 2x8 southern yellow pine.
The top is 3.25" thick.

 

[Steevo]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

If a workbench isn't worth a week of your time, why have one at all?
You are talking about something that you will do hundreds or thousands of jobs at over the next 10/20/30 years or more. Why do you put a constraint like "without turning it into a week long project" on it?

2x8 pine sounds like nice planking for a workbench surface. Get creative and build something worthy of it.

Go ahead and plane off the rounded edges so you can glue it up into a smooth surface (if you plan to work on the wood surface), and then figure out what you want under it.

 

[JasonW]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

If a workbench isn't worth a week of your time, why have one at all?
You are talking about something that you will do hundreds or thousands of jobs at over the next 10/20/30 years or more. Why do you put a constraint like "without turning it into a week long project" on it?

2x8 pine sounds like nice planking for a workbench surface. Get creative and build something worthy of it.

Go ahead and plane off the rounded edges so you can glue it up into a smooth surface (if you plan to work on the wood surface), and then figure out what you want under it.

My thoughts exactly. Rustic is fine but if you are going to be doing the type of work you have suggested, what sits under that top better have been well thought out. Just plan it out ahead of time, there's no good reason why it couldn't still essentially be a weekend project. Nuts and bolts can be rustic right? Good Luck

 

[oldldh]

Strong is better than rustic...

TOO STRONG IS JUST RIGHT!!!!

(One never knows what one will drop on it....the last one I built had three layers of 3/4 marine plywood for a top, topped with 12 gauge steel...)

 

[blownhemi]

Here's one I built last week using 2x8 timber.

Full build thread here
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158638

 

[Steevo]

Here's one I built last week using 2x8 timber.

Full build thread here
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158638

blownhemi,
What were the drawers originally from?

 

[JimVonBaden]

blownhemi,
What were the drawers originally from?

Look at his thread. Those are tool boxes slid into position.

I want to know more about the top made from: "17mm thick black forming ply for "?

Jim

 

[z28snksknr]

I used 3 - 2"x10"x12' 's for my bench doing just what you said - bolted to a frame, countersunk bolts, etc. I used tow straps to pull the boards tightly together before bolting so the seams were tight. It's a damn tough bench.

I put some cheap pergo-type flooring on the top after the first year - holds up well, easy to clean, and it was basically free since I had it left over from a job.

If you want rustic, leave it bare and use it for a year. Fake rustic never looks as good as real rustic.

 

[blownhemi]

Look at his thread. Those are tool boxes slid into position.

I want to know more about the top made from: "17mm thick black forming ply for "?

Jim

Sorry, I'm not sure what you guys have available to you over there. Alot of concreters here in Australia use that black faced forming ply for concrete forms. It's heavy and strong and the black surface doesn't stick the concrete.


The tool boxes are from an old employer. They were telecommunications tool boxes that were going to be thrown out. I stripped most of the paint off them (but you can still see some grey on the left one) and we built the openings in the bench with 5mm (just under 1/4in) clearance. A couple of wood screws through the base of the boxes and they aren't going anywhere. But it would be relatively easy to make the boxes if you didn't have anything like them.

 

[wnstwolf]

Just a tip on getting the edges ready to be glued up.. While running through a table saw is great if you have one or access to a jointer it is X10 better. did one like you mentioned, ran the straightest and dryest 2x4 through a table saw then used threaded rod and glued up about 26 of them to make a butcher block. Good but not great..
As Steevo stated this is a project that you will look at for a long time. I redid the top with Doug-fir 2x baterial table saw then used a joiner and the seams were super tight and flat I believe the term would be. This allowed a much better glue joint that maybe even Norm A would be proud of!

 

[JimVonBaden]

Sorry, I'm not sure what you guys have available to you over there. Alot of concreters here in Australia use that black faced forming ply for concrete forms. It's heavy and strong and the black surface doesn't stick the concrete.

Is the black faced a thin plastic veneer, or is it thicker like a formica countertop? I really like the look of it, but wonder how durable it would be against scraping off?

The bench looks great, and very strong!

Thanks,

Jim

 

[blownhemi]

Is the black faced a thin plastic veneer, or is it thicker like a formica countertop? I really like the look of it, but wonder how durable it would be against scraping off?

The bench looks great, and very strong!

Thanks,

Jim

It's a thin veneer but feels durable enough, but not as think as Formica. You would have to do something serious to gouge through it I think, and being forming fly it's also water resistant. But fairly easy to give light surface scratches. I ran around the edges with a file to take the sharp edge off (quite sharp) and it took some pressure to cut through the edge.

It'll be interesting to see how it goes long term, but the best part was that it was available in the store in the exact size i needed 2400x600mm. No cutting required. It cost as much as a full 2400x1200mm sheet of 12mm ply and weighs just as much too.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Cool, sounds like a decent bench top material!

Jim

 

[carhunter]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

Here is the bench I built last month using nothing but 2x8 southern yellow pine.
The top is 3.25" thick.

That's beautiful! Its has a nicer finish than our dining room table

If a workbench isn't worth a week of your time, why have one at all?
You are talking about something that you will do hundreds or thousands of jobs at over the next 10/20/30 years or more. Why do you put a constraint like "without turning it into a week long project" on it?

Since you asked, its because I have several workspaces and tend to change my mind often. After a year or two my needs might change and I'll redo everything.

Dad's bench lasted him since he built it in the early 70's...I'm not that kind of guy at this point in my life.

Sometimes "good" is good enough

 

[thdewey]

Re: builcing a simple workbench top with 2x8's?

Here is the bench I built last month using nothing but 2x8 southern yellow pine.
The top is 3.25" thick.

I hate it when people attach photos in there replies but....

DAMN that workbench is beautiful!

Now I have to get a planer.

 

[pattenp]

I used poly on my SYP top to keep it from getting stained from oil and other mess.
View media item 2162

 

[Zeke]

I wouldn't connect the boards with all-thread rod. Doesn't allow for expansion. No one building a table would do that.

I like the idea of staining the wood but not necessarily brown. I have a similar bench made in the 30's and left behind here at my home. I moved it, but it's still the same as the old guy used until he died.

 

[zacker01]

if you have stud wall behind the bench just lag a 2x? to it the length of the bench you want, add two front legs, maybe a center leg if the bench is long, then build a rectangle frame to go from the legs to the back 2x? on the studs and top it off with your 2x8s.. 2 or 3 hours work...lol you want to build a top with the wood correct? I hope thats what you were meaning..

 

[elguappo]

I was going to rip some 2x8 stock 2" wide, turn them on end, and make a butcherblock top for some Craftsman metal cabinets. Put them on a plywood base, add casters, and a 2" thick DIY butcherblock top would be a winner.

 

[zacker01]

That sounds pretty sweet. rip em 2" wide then 2" long and glue all the little blocks together...lol Hey, I wanted to make a bench top from 2 x stock laid flat, and then use some old oak hard wood flooring for the top... theres a store nearby me that sells used stuff from buildings and houses that they tear down and had some really good pricing on old oak flooring.. not old vintage, but old (used) hardwaao flooring. they also sell alot of other old wood too so, whatever catches they eye.

 

[zacker01]

back onto the block thing.. line up a bunch of 2x2 blocks, end grain up, stager the grain on each block. drill a 3/8" hole through the center of all the blcks except for the one that goes on each end. then glue the blocks all in a row, side by side, insert a piece of 3/8" rod through the holes and stick a nut on each end. tighten nuts to clamp blocks and if the rod is cut to size and you counter bore the holes on the nut side of the end blocks, keep the nut ends flush withthe end blocks, then take the two blocks you didnt drill and glue one on each end to hide the rod. then stagger the blocks into a checkerboard pattern and sand. lol

 

[wnstwolf]

Sorry Zeke my use of the threaded rod was with cut down 2x4 not butted up 2x6" you have a valid point of the later was the intended design

 

[elguappo]

I am definitely NOT talking about an endgrain butcherblock, WAY too much work.

I mean, take a 2x8 (7.5" wide) and after ripping a flat edge, then ripping 3 pieces at 2", you would have, per 2x8, 3 pieces 2" wide x 1.5" thick.
Lay them on the 1.5" dimension to get the sidegrain, which is much more stable than face grain, and start your glue up (optional steps are jointing/planing of course).

I have a project that needs a 4' top, about 27" wide.
So with standard 2x8 stock, with each strip being 1.5" wide, I will need 18 strips, 4' long each. Considering each 2x8 will yield 6 pieces (at 4' long ea), thats only 3 total 2x8s to yield a 2" thick custom made butcher block top.

 

[machine_punk]

If you end up gluing those 2x8's into 'one wide board,' make sure you attach the top in a way that the top can 'move.' There is going to be a lot of seasonal movement on a slab of wood that big.

Here's a recent large bench I built. I used double-3/4" plywood, but I suppose you could use 2x8 planks too (would be about the same thickness). I used all 'through-bolt' construction on this frame, with wood screws to attach the top to the frame...
View media item 18634
View media item 18635
The horizontal members in this bench are all 2x8 lumber. I have added a horizontal brace to the back legs, even though this bench was already incredibly sturdy as you see it in the pictures.

M_P

 

[JimVonBaden]

View media item 18635
M_P

I gotta ask. Why did you put the nuts on the outside? Are you planning to cover them? Seems like they would have sharp edges that would snag and cut you.

Jim

 

[elguappo]

Thats why face gluing them and having the edges as your work surface is great, far less expansion in that dimension.

 

[blownhemi]

I gotta ask. Why did you put the nuts on the outside? Are you planning to cover them? Seems like they would have sharp edges that would snag and cut you.

Jim

Yep, especially those bolts coming out the front. Should countersink the holes at least use some shorter bolts because you're gonna lose some skin of the knuckles when you use that vice. Or vise as you guys say.

Nice looking bench otherwise