Building a storage shed

[jk333]

I hope this is the right place for this, im considering building a backyard shed. Im thinking about an 8x10 with 6ft high walls. im thinking about this for the basic structure.

pretty much like pole building construction. I would like it to have a wood floor, and im thinking about insulating it like Ive seen done in pole garages. Theres a type of insulation that goes in between the wood frame and the metal. also, as far as trusses go, could I make my design the same as the picture? what do you guys think? advice? input? Thanks.

 

[truck]

depends on where you live. There is going to be snow weight on the roof, I don't think that would be strong enough. If snow is not a factor and all they are holding is the sheet metal then it would be fine.

Truck

 

[southpier]

if you're keeping anything of value in there, just be aware the siding can be cut through with a serrated hunting knife.

maybe keep everything in boxes, locked & bolted to the floor.

 

[travisd]

If you go with a "barn" style roof, you'll gain some more storage space -- my Shed is a "Dutch barn" style with 6-foot walls. I was able to build a loft at one end to store the lighter things like outdoor furniture pads, tires, toys, etc. At some point I'm intending to suspend the Canoe up there as well.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Out of curiosity, why insulate it? I'd think 8'x10'x6' is too small to ever do any work in. Are you storing something that's temperature sensitive?

 

[Costner]

If you insulate it, you will also need to heat and/or cool it. Insulation alone won't do a thing other than perhaps help keep the wind from blowing through if you plan to put in a dog door etc.

 

[boiler7904]

First comment is to build bigger than you need now and as large as your town will let you while keeping the budget in check. 8x10x6 is small. You might want to lay that out on the floor in a corner of your garage with masking tape just for a reference before you start construction. Consider 7' clear height at a minimum.

I'm also questioning the insulation. If you are set on using some, polywrapped fiberglass will be the best bet.

I'd be looking at wall studs and rafters at 24" o.c. mininimum for framing. Closer together on the roof if in a high snow load area. Purlins between the rafter and metal panel need to be spaced per the panel manufacturer's written installation instructions.

The biggest thing missing from that picture is collar ties or bottom chords to the trusses. Without them, the sidewalls will bow outward and the roof downward.

 

[jk333]

depends on where you live. There is going to be snow weight on the roof, I don't think that would be strong enough. If snow is not a factor and all they are holding is the sheet metal then it would be fine.

Truck

I live in Tacoma, WA. And we do have snow so, I guess Iwill have to address the strength of the roof.

 

[jk333]

if you're keeping anything of value in there, just be aware the siding can be cut through with a serrated hunting knife.

maybe keep everything in boxes, locked & bolted to the floor.

Im aware of that, haha. I know its not like a regular garage (or as nice), but the construction method fits my budget. thats why Iwas attracted to it. I have a pretty private backyard. Maybe Ishould make the wall girts stacked closer together?

 

[jk333]

If you go with a "barn" style roof, you'll gain some more storage space -- my Shed is a "Dutch barn" style with 6-foot walls. I was able to build a loft at one end to store the lighter things like outdoor furniture pads, tires, toys, etc. At some point I'm intending to suspend the Canoe up there as well.

hmm, definitely something to consider. thanks for the tip.

 

[jk333]

Out of curiosity, why insulate it? I'd think 8'x10'x6' is too small to ever do any work in. Are you storing something that's temperature sensitive?

My thought on the insulation is to protect what will be stored in there. Its a classic 74 Honda CB750. Im almost done restoring it. I thought about insulation to make the shed more like having my bike in the garage rather than having it sit outside under cover. Does that make sense?

 

[jk333]

If you insulate it, you will also need to heat and/or cool it. Insulation alone won't do a thing other than perhaps help keep the wind from blowing through if you plan to put in a dog door etc.

My thought on the insulation was to make it more like my garage in the respect that whatever is in there (my CB750) would stay dry during the rainy season vs. letting it sit outside under a lean to. I thought the insulation would help keep the moisture out.

 

[jk333]

First comment is to build bigger than you need now and as large as your town will let you while keeping the budget in check. 8x10x6 is small. You might want to lay that out on the floor in a corner of your garage with masking tape just for a reference before you start construction. Consider 7' clear height at a minimum.

I'm also questioning the insulation. If you are set on using some, polywrapped fiberglass will be the best bet.

I'd be looking at wall studs and rafters at 24" o.c. mininimum for framing. Closer together on the roof if in a high snow load area. Purlins between the rafter and metal panel need to be spaced per the panel manufacturer's written installation instructions.

The biggest thing missing from that picture is collar ties or bottom chords to the trusses. Without them, the sidewalls will bow outward and the roof downward.

I see what your saying about strengthening the building plan. ITs a good idea. Im sure I will have alot of modifications to do for the above picture. I addressed the insulation question (see above response). As far as size, I'll keep an open mind, but really, I think that size will suit my budget nicely. And I plan on keeping just one motorcycle in there

 

[Costner]

My thought on the insulation was to make it more like my garage in the respect that whatever is in there (my CB750) would stay dry during the rainy season vs. letting it sit outside under a lean to. I thought the insulation would help keep the moisture out.

It won't change anything. If you have holes in the roof or walls which allow moisture in, the insulation won't prevent it. All the insulation will do is hold moisture and without a source of heat it won't be warmer or dryer.

Also, in small sheds the area between the studs is often used for storage, so insulating a small shed will actually reduce the amount of available storage space. To prevent damaging the insulation you would probably need to cover it with plywood or OSB etc which adds even more cost with little benefit.

Now if you said you were going to put a dog door in and let your dog use it to get out of the weather in the winter I'd say the insulation might be a good idea, because in that case the dog itself acts like the source of heat and it would reduce the impact of wind while helping to keep the temperature at a more constant level (the interior would help retain heat at night during the coldest parts of day etc).

In your case to store your bike and some garden tools etc, I'd just skip the insulation, frame the walls with 2x4s at either 16" or 24" on center, and then be sure the siding and roofing are 100% weather tight. If using a wood floor, be sure you rest the entire shed upon piers or concrete block to prevent moisture from wicking up from the ground into the wood frame. You shouldn't have any issues with moisture if it is built properly.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Insulation won't do anything to make the shed warmer or cooler -- it'll just extend the transition times between the two. I'd say get a space heater in there, but the damage from the fire it starts will probably outweigh the benefits of reducing the heat cycling on the soft tissue components of the bike.

What about basement storage for the bike? Or maybe suspend it from the roof trusses in the regular garage if there's some heat in there? It's a weird idea, but sourcing an oversized plastic bag might be a way to keep the bike dry.

 

[mustangmccance]

? It's a weird idea, but sourcing an oversized plastic bag might be a way to keep the bike dry.

like a car capsule?
http://www.carcapsule.com/
put that inside your shed and you would be set.

 

[southpier]

Im aware of that, haha. I know its not like a regular garage (or as nice), but the construction method fits my budget. thats why Iwas attracted to it. I have a pretty private backyard. Maybe Ishould make the wall girts stacked closer together?

as time and finances permit, wrap the inside with 3/8" plywood. it will protect the insulation from getting gaffed up and give you a place to mount things. there's always a way

 

[nissan_crawler]

if you're keeping anything of value in there, just be aware the siding can be cut through with a serrated hunting knife.

maybe keep everything in boxes, locked & bolted to the floor.

Eh...depends on the siding used. Cheap *** tin stuff that comes with a $300 shed kit, yeah. Good barn tin, I'll give you my paycheck if you can pull that off.

 

[nate379]

Yup.

Not to say that a guy couldn't cut a hole with a cordless sawzall, but honestly who lives in a place that someone would go that far to break into a tiny garden shed?

The one in the pic, just push the wall over! a freaking 10mph wind would break that thing in pieces!

 

[nissan_crawler]

Yup.

Not to say that a guy couldn't cut a hole with a cordless sawzall, but honestly who lives in a place that someone would go that far to break into a tiny garden shed?

Not only that, but at that point, it's just as easy to get into your house. Same reason steel plated king studs for deadbolts and such crack me up. Or people with a window in the door, and a lock with only a knob inside to unlock it.

If you want a shed as realistically secure as possible, look into a shipping container. quick, sturdy, secure. If somebody gets into that, you were doomed from the start.

Hell, my "shed" is just an HF 10x16 "portable garage". I just chain/padlock the canoe, two riding mowers, push mower, tiller, bike, etc. together on the same chain. If they take the time to cut off 7 padlocks or the hardened chain, so be it.

One guy tried to figure it out 3 days in a row. My neighbor saw him, and told me about it though, so on the third night, I took the day off and was waiting for him in the shed with a 12 pack and the shotgun. He decided his criminal career would be cut too short and promptly agreed I would never see him again.

For your size shed, I would go with conventional framing on 16" center. The extra couple of studs will cost all of $20, and it will be sturdy enough to put heavy things on shelves, just my $.02. I would also use heavy barn tin. Again, it won't cost diddly for your size of shed, and it will pretty much last for the life of your house at that point. I would also do 8' walls, ducking all the time *****. Get yourself a convertible 6 volt flashlight/battery deal and hang it from the ceiling, I did that in mine, cheap, handy.

 

[JohnK007]

+1 on building it bigger than you think you need. I built an 8X12 which replaced at 6X8 and thought I was in hog heaven. That feeling lasted about two weeks then I started filling it up. Now I wish I went 12X16. Of course, I'd just end up filling that up too and wishing it were bigger.
Point is you will be surprised how quickly a shed fills up with stuff. An 8X10 will fill up quick.

 

[nate379]

That's true!

The one I'm building is 16x18 and I was talking to my Dad last week and he said... why don't you just make it 16x20? I like where he's going

8x10 will fill up in short order with just a small yard tractor and a few garden tools. My folks have a metal shed by their garden, 12x14 and it is pretty tight to fit just the garden stuff.

 

[roboref]

I am building a 10 X14 shed and the one that I just tore down was not insulated. This one will be! Will the insulation keep something from freezing, maybe not, but it will cool down much slower and then in the summer it will not get hot as quickly. Also when I do run the small electric heater it will be really nice. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[jjkrjh]

I built a 10x14 shed about 10 years ago at our old house. Took the 12x12 inch cement pavers and laid them out on ground for a floor. Stick built the walls 16" oc with a treated 4x4 where it met the pavers. Built trusses out of 2x4 and plywood for reinforcement plates. Covered with t-11 and osb/shingles. Put left over insulation on the walls and roof.

Insulation does help on the cycles of cold to hot in the spring. With the snow melt during the day and everything sweats, at night cools off and refreezes. The insulation slowed the temp. changes. The sweating was drastically changed, but still had some moisture.

The trusses were nice for storing all the cut offs from projects that I couldn't part with.