OP
Drinkin-N-Thinkin
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2011
- Messages
- 30
My next step is prepping for insulation.
Another widely discussed topic on GJ (and the internet) is "How to properly insulate a pole barn". The [main] issue I think everyone is confronted with is condensation. A metal pole barn will sweat like a cold beer can on a hot summer day when the relative humidity quickly changes and will drip in the interior when the dew point is breached.
I'm sure the other main issue I think is what method is "best" to apply insulation on a pole barn frame? They are not framed conventionally like modern stick built structures, cost is always a factor and factors are always different for different folks depending upon their circumstances, locations and intended use. "Best" could mean cheapest, "best" could mean fastest or "best" could mean warmest (efficiency). That is for each individual to decide for themselves and after trolling the internet and GJ for as much research as I could do in the timeframe I had, here is what I decided to do for my scenario.
Intended use
Will be a workshop to store tools, materials (metal, wood) and once I build a detached house, more toys! Will be heated to 50 degrees F (winter only) to keep it above the dew point and prevent the temperature swings that would cause condensation (much like when you walk inside from the cold and your glasses fog up).
Products
There are several products available (not all inclusive: cellulose, fiberglass and spray foam). Each is a "tool" for a different job.
Method
Since pole barns are built with poles and girts, I went with the flow and already installed girts (a girt is a horizontal structural component in a framed wall between the vertical posts) on the inside walls, too. From here, I will staple and glue a mesh fabric on the inside between each girt layer over the entire interior wall, then cut an "X" slit in each section to blow in dry dense pack cellulose then seal the slit. The mesh is so the air can escape when applying but also hold the insulation in the wall (as opposed to a wet application) before I get the wall board up which will go on top of that. The thermal bridging surface area (where heat transfer penetrates an insulation layer via a highly conductive material: wood) is much less than a vertically framed wall since only the existing girt-to-post surface area would be the thermal bridge (the length of the exterior girt to the other post does not bridge the interior girt). Conversly, a framed wall will have studs from floor to ceiling every 24 inches (since the poles carry the weight no need for 16 inches on centers) creating an additionally larger surface area and thermal bridge. Also, multiple 14 foot studs (trimmed 16 footers) are more expensive that 9 footers (trimmed 10 footers).
I was so happy I thought of this myself, I was going to patent it! But alas, like all the other million dollar ideas I had but couldn't cash in on, I see some else thought of it (too). The concept is here and called the Mooney wall.
The walls will be dense pack probably with some spray foam on the bottom to seal out the bugs, the ceiling will be a couple inches of spray foam to stop air infilteration with fiberglass batts on top of that to trap the air.
With a building this tight, I will need some from of air exchange.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone who used cellulose/spray foam in their building and how it has worked out.
I'd be intersted to hear from anyone that insulated a pole barn and how it is working for you or what problems you have had.
Another widely discussed topic on GJ (and the internet) is "How to properly insulate a pole barn". The [main] issue I think everyone is confronted with is condensation. A metal pole barn will sweat like a cold beer can on a hot summer day when the relative humidity quickly changes and will drip in the interior when the dew point is breached.
I'm sure the other main issue I think is what method is "best" to apply insulation on a pole barn frame? They are not framed conventionally like modern stick built structures, cost is always a factor and factors are always different for different folks depending upon their circumstances, locations and intended use. "Best" could mean cheapest, "best" could mean fastest or "best" could mean warmest (efficiency). That is for each individual to decide for themselves and after trolling the internet and GJ for as much research as I could do in the timeframe I had, here is what I decided to do for my scenario.
Intended use
Will be a workshop to store tools, materials (metal, wood) and once I build a detached house, more toys! Will be heated to 50 degrees F (winter only) to keep it above the dew point and prevent the temperature swings that would cause condensation (much like when you walk inside from the cold and your glasses fog up).
Products
There are several products available (not all inclusive: cellulose, fiberglass and spray foam). Each is a "tool" for a different job.
Method
Since pole barns are built with poles and girts, I went with the flow and already installed girts (a girt is a horizontal structural component in a framed wall between the vertical posts) on the inside walls, too. From here, I will staple and glue a mesh fabric on the inside between each girt layer over the entire interior wall, then cut an "X" slit in each section to blow in dry dense pack cellulose then seal the slit. The mesh is so the air can escape when applying but also hold the insulation in the wall (as opposed to a wet application) before I get the wall board up which will go on top of that. The thermal bridging surface area (where heat transfer penetrates an insulation layer via a highly conductive material: wood) is much less than a vertically framed wall since only the existing girt-to-post surface area would be the thermal bridge (the length of the exterior girt to the other post does not bridge the interior girt). Conversly, a framed wall will have studs from floor to ceiling every 24 inches (since the poles carry the weight no need for 16 inches on centers) creating an additionally larger surface area and thermal bridge. Also, multiple 14 foot studs (trimmed 16 footers) are more expensive that 9 footers (trimmed 10 footers).
I was so happy I thought of this myself, I was going to patent it! But alas, like all the other million dollar ideas I had but couldn't cash in on, I see some else thought of it (too). The concept is here and called the Mooney wall.
The walls will be dense pack probably with some spray foam on the bottom to seal out the bugs, the ceiling will be a couple inches of spray foam to stop air infilteration with fiberglass batts on top of that to trap the air.
With a building this tight, I will need some from of air exchange.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone who used cellulose/spray foam in their building and how it has worked out.
I'd be intersted to hear from anyone that insulated a pole barn and how it is working for you or what problems you have had.