Building garage cabinets

[GIJoe4500]

I'm going to take a stab at attempting to build some garage cabinets. Through a discount gift card site and a Lowe's 10% off coupon, I scored a DeWalt DWE7491RS for $480 out of pocket. Going to be ordering the dado insert from Amazon today as well.

What are y'all recommendations for blades? Dado and regular. I've been doing a lot of reading between here and some other places, and I just want a confirmation that I'm not mixing things up.

For the bulk of the cutting, I'm looking at the Freud D1060S Diablo. 10" blade.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ31/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And for the dados and rabbets I was thinking the Freud SD206 6" dado set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O8/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Cabinets will be built out of 3/4" birch. Does that all sound right? I know I'll also need to pick up some big clamps and some wood glue.

I know the saw will probably need a little tweaking right out of the box. Making sure everything is aligned properly, the fence ruler is measuring correctly, etc.

Any other recommendations you can give a total noob to wood working? Since they don't make wood welders, I will be measuring like 10 times before cutting once, and fully expect there to be the occasional beginner mistakes to be made.

 

[jeepman1]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G...wood+blade&dpPl=1&dpID=51iUzTXaJXL&ref=plSrch

This is the blade I use for laminate plywood... I've not really used much else so I don't have any comparison , but it does work well....
For regular hardwoods I use a Freud combination blade... It is something my high school wood shop teacher did to keep from changing between crosscut and rip blades... I've had good luck with that blade as well...

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[jeepman1]

Otherwise... You are probably going to need a hand cutting the plywood or a outfeed table of some sort...
Otherwise go for it! I had 6 nice hon steel cabinets in my garage and while they are nice they never seem to be deep enough or in general just what I want. So I am slowly building cabinets for my garage.. this allows me to build them for the space I have and to my requirements....

Good luck! Don't forget to post your pics...

Here's what I just finished last weekend...

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[GIJoe4500]

Otherwise... You are probably going to need a hand cutting the plywood or a outfeed table of some sort...

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Planning on cutting down the sheets to more manageable sizes with my circular saw, then moving it to the table saw for finish cuts. Will be putting the girlfriend to work on this as well, so I'll have some help wrangling the smaller pieces. Luckily, she likes this kind of stuff. Had her running the bandsaw and angle grinder when shortening my play truck's driveshaft a couple weeks ago.

 

[GIJoe4500]

Otherwise... You are probably going to need a hand cutting the plywood or a outfeed table of some sort...
Otherwise go for it! I had 6 nice hon steel cabinets in my garage and while they are nice they never seem to be deep enough or in general just what I want. So I am slowly building cabinets for my garage.. this allows me to build them for the space I have and to my requirements....

Good luck! Don't forget to post your pics...


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I will definitely see what I can do about pics. My garage is a mess, so I'm wanting to build some hanging cabinets to help with finally getting organized. I looked at the gladiator cabinets and they just felt too flimsy for me. Figured I would be ahead in tools and knowledge if I just try to build them myself. Worst case scenario I end up making them a little off kilter, and I end up with some Dr. Seuss cabinets.

 

[PoorOwner]

Get pocket screw jig

You probably don't even need clamps then

 

[derosa]

As already mentioned use an outfeed table, and a kreig screw kit for faster build time, still glue though. I would not try to cut full sized pieces of 3/4" ply on there, precut everything with a straight edge guide and a circular saw. Trying to get a full sized sheet across that is asking for it to bind or kickback. I use an orange cmt dado set and like the overall quality.

 

[Jerryrigged]

I don't think you can go wrong on either of your choices. I have used Freud blades in the past and they were really good. I have the 8" Freud Dado set and highly recommend it. I picked the Freud Dado set up for 25 dollars from one of the box stores. They had it marked down for clearance.

 

[GIJoe4500]

Picked up the 80 tooth plywood blade that jeepman1 recommended, as well as that Freud dado stack and also a better blade for my circular saw. Ordered through Amazon and they should be here friday. Going to grab a single sheet of plywood on Saturday morning and try my hand at this. I want to attempt to build one first, take notes and find my mistakes and all of that stuff first. If it works out well, or at least I identify my issues, I'll go into "mass production" and pick up the plywood to build all of the cabinets I am wanting at once. Will be easier to do all of the cuts, then all of the dados, etc.

I'll take pictures along the way.

 

[cagullett1]

You mentioned using 3/4" birch, curious where you plan to get it from? Stuff at big box stores is just veneered birch and not the "birch" that woodworkers typically build with.

 

[GIJoe4500]

You mentioned using 3/4" birch, curious where you plan to get it from? Stuff at big box stores is just veneered birch and not the "birch" that woodworkers typically build with.

Local lumber yard.

 

[Voi]

Any other recommendations you can give a total noob to wood working?

I haven't built a cabinet carcass with dados or rabbets in years, maybe even decades. I'm not against them but if this is a one time project I'd save your money on the dado set and get a pocket hole jig or something else.

Are you installing face frames or will these by a frameless type of cabinet?

I really like Baltic Birch plywood for shop cabinets. Fewer voids and seems flatter than a lot of the junk sold today. Price fluctuates but it often is priced real well.

It's also sold as Russian or Finnish birch plywood.

It comes in 5x5 sheets and for me that often works out better for shop cabinets which I like to make a bit deeper than regular cabinets.

I taught myself wood working with a circular saw and a shop made edge guide. Cut dados with a router or multiple passes with the circular saw. Don't need to invest a lot in tools.

 

[vartz04]

+1 for the pocket holes. Unless you are making fine furniture might as well use the technology that makes life faster.

DO NOT try to cut full sheets on the table saw (I know you said you aren't going to) I tried to do it on a saw bigger than that one (Inbetween a jobsite and a cabinet saw) and it doesn't work out well even with the infeed/outfeed tables.

family handyman has a link to a great saw guide. Another option is the kreg saw guide clamp.

 

[GIJoe4500]

I haven't built a cabinet carcass with dados or rabbets in years, maybe even decades. I'm not against them but if this is a one time project I'd save your money on the dado set and get a pocket hole jig or something else.

Are you installing face frames or will these by a frameless type of cabinet?

I really like Baltic Birch plywood for shop cabinets. Fewer voids and seems flatter than a lot of the junk sold today. Price fluctuates but it often is priced real well.

It's also sold as Russian or Finnish birch plywood.

It comes in 5x5 sheets and for me that often works out better for shop cabinets which I like to make a bit deeper than regular cabinets.

I taught myself wood working with a circular saw and a shop made edge guide. Cut dados with a router or multiple passes with the circular saw. Don't need to invest a lot in tools.

Frameless. I already ordered the dado set. I don't mind spending it. I have a few other projects I would like to build in the future that I want to use dados on, so I do not mind investing in the set.

Quickly learning that it isn't going to be as easy to get the baltic birch as I thought. I, unfortunately, ran into an issue with my job. I have one of those crappy 8-5 M-F jobs, and that's the same hours as all the local decent yards, that carry the stuff. I use to be spoiled by working seasonal work, and having the flexibility to go any time. Hopefully I can find a place that is open until 6pm, or maybe half day saturday or something.


If I can't find a place that has hours that work for me, and end up having to go to a big box store, what would y'all recommend for wood choice?

 

[PoorOwner]

The baltic birch is totally different beast
It won't sag and is very heavy.
I think it is more expensive than box store stuff.

 

[jeepman1]

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...441906195-c-13334.htm?tid=3215845366428349518

I have had good luck with this... It is 10 ply.... I have had no issues with warping.
Lowes carries something similar. ..

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[Zeke]

A dado is fine but they can be difficult to use on ply. Better to make thinner cuts and either turn the piece around or move the fence. I have a full 1/8th kerf blade that I use for all 1/4" dados. I run the piece through offset to one side and turn the piece around for the other cut. Since 1/4 ply is not a full quarter in many cases, the overlap (very slight) cleans out the cut. If I happen to get a full 1/4" piece the double cut is still clean by a hair.

All dimensional lumber should be dado'd this way using a zero clearance insert. Oh, and BTW, that is a mandatory purchase with any new table saw. Get a few.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Birch is expensive. Baltic birch is even more expensive. If you are going to paint it, I don't think either are worth the cost.

What ever kind of plywood you use, cut it with the good side down to minimize chipping/tearout. You need edge banding or some kind of trim/face frame to cover the exposed edges.

If you use standard AC grade exterior plywood apply 2 coats of an oil based primer following the directions on the can. You can use a roller or brush.

If you want that perfect'y sooth finish, you will may to do a couple of sandings. last one should be about 220 grit. Clean plywood down first with a dry rag and then with a light damp rag or tack cloth. Rattle can spray paint works well, but takes MULTIPLE (4-6) light coats. Follow can directions for drying time between coats.

Occasionally, the big box stores have spray cans on sale. Depending on how many cabinets you plan on making buy a case (12) or teo.

 

[4Kings]

What ever kind of plywood you use, cut it with the good side down to minimize chipping/tearout.

Actually if you cut plywood on a table saw you want the good side up. If you're using a circular saw, good side down.

 

[aka Larry]

Another vote for the Kreg Pocket hole jig. Fastest and easiest way.

As has been said, don't try to cut a 4'x8' sheet on a table saw. I laid my plywood over a 4' x 8' x 1" thk sheet of foam and built a fence to use with my skil saw. Oh, and just toss the blade that came with your saws and buy the appropriate Diablo blade for the size/type you need.

 

[djjsr]

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...441906195-c-13334.htm?tid=3215845366428349518

I have had good luck with this... It is 10 ply.... I have had no issues with warping.

I've built a few large cabinets with this stuff. Works very well.

View media item 5471

 

[rharman]

Do a Google search for garage cabinets and specify site:garagejournal.com
There is a thread which I don't have time to look for right this instant by someone who recently built all his cabinets. Did a really nice job.

 

[kippieland]

<a href="http://s1088.photobucket.com/user/kippieland/media/20150906_155659_zps3qtuumzk.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i336/kippieland/20150906_155659_zps3qtuumzk.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150906_155659_zps3qtuumzk.jpg"/></a>

i just finished these cabinets this summer. They are completely from scratch. I used MDF for the doors and 3/4 poplar plywood for the cases. I am a big fan of pocket screws since they create a tight joint and a quick. I have done other joins but I like the speed of the pocket screws.

This is my second project of garage cabinets (we moved) that I have made. This time the quality is much higher for sure. I used a freud 60 tooth in my circular saw and a high tooth count blade in my little table saw and mitre saw.

One thing I would suggest is that you get used to making mistakes. Just going to happen....aways measure twice/cut once! Plus, don't waste your time compare your work to factory made cabinets. Plywood is never perfectly flat compared to factory. Just roll with it. If you are like me you will always find the errors that no one else will notice

I would google search for a plan you like or even find measurements from a layout you like go from there. I also used my home cabinets for the uppers.

Good luck

 

[burtonry]

Home Depot has a pretty nice 3/4" pine plywood that's sanded on both sides and has tons of plys. If your going to paint the cabinets it's a good choice. I've made a trailer box and a few cabinets from it and they're holding up great. Plus they are $35 a sheet.


Ryan
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[yhprum]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186358&highlight=aussie+dan+cabinets
Aussie Dan Cabinets

 

[cagullett1]

Home Depot has a pretty nice 3/4" pine plywood that's sanded on both sides and has tons of plys. If your going to paint the cabinets it's a good choice. I've made a trailer box and a few cabinets from it and they're holding up great. Plus they are $35 a sheet.


Ryan
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This is exactly what I was going to suggest if you can't get to the lumber yard. It has a lot fewer voids than the typical birch/oak veneer stuff they sell.

 

[flyingw]

I built mine from scratch. Cabinet grade plywood, 1x2 stock, and 2x4 stock. All I used was a nail gun, tablesaw, router, and a sander. total cost was about 700.00.

 

[Jcrapola]

I built mine from scratch. Cabinet grade plywood, 1x2 stock, and 2x4 stock. All I used was a nail gun, tablesaw, router, and a sander. total cost was about 700.00.

Damn! ur garage is badass! What did u use for flooring? issat epoxy?