Building is almost complete, now for the details

[Jack_Toepfer]

Hi Guys,

All of the research and reading I've done on here for the last several years doesn't make designing my own garage any easier. Excellent ideas, budgets for all sizes, and every one of them is unique.

My biggest hang-up right now is where to put my attic stairs. I'm a huge fan of full-size stairs that can handle hundreds of pounds - that swing up and hide by the ceiling. We've all seen the videos on YouTube, and if not I'll attach a couple at the bottom of the post.

I've attached some pictures of what I'm working with. The only permanent things in the design right now, are those that were framed in
- 18x40x10 foundation
- 16x10 front door
- 8x8 back door
- (2) man door openings in each corner
- 2 double hung windows on east wall.
- attached to existing home (set back 2' from front and goes back 5' beyond)
- 2 steel i-beams run east/west
- 2x6 framing

First and foremost, I do not think these stairs will see a lot of traffic, and floor space is more important. The room above it will eventually get finished into a dedicated home theater room. That room is 18x32x8 and has windows facing north/south.

Considerations
- the 8x8 back door is "just in case" and will probably be blocked and locked by a project more often than not.
- if the stairs ascend (hide away) towards the ceiling like I have planned, it can block any opening in the structure for the short time I'll need them.
- if the space above it is unfinished now, but finished in the future - what requirements do I have for a landing? What if I eliminate the stairs entirely when I finish the room?
- I'm 6'3" and don't want to hit my head on the opening if I can avoid it - but I'm willing to bend if it means a much smaller hole in my floor upstairs.
- Eventually I think the inspector will be back to do a final walk through. I want safe and I want something that will pass code - but I give extra points for creativity.

Any ideas are welcome.
I also need to find a place to store the shop-vac, compressor, and other large "appliance" type tools.


Examples I plan on copying but improving

I like how this one hides the opening when the stairs are not in use, I have some ideas on how to pull this off a little "cleaner"

 

[matt_i]

Here is my staircase, its tilting and uses a Harbor Freight cable hoist for raising and lowering. I'm working on a steel latching mechanism right now to backup the cable for long-term storage. I don't have an extra-width opening, its just the trusses on 24" centers but the staircase is 32" wide which is more comfortable for me to use.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Good job Matt!
That is the most advanced way I’ve seen a hoist hooked to a staircase. Most guys don’t take it that far, but I like it. Haven’t seen that one on YouTube yet, not sure how I missed it, but thanks for sharing.

 

[James-W]

The garage is looking good, can't wait to see it completed. Be sure to post pictures of the progress along the way.

Instead of a stairs, think about putting in a lift. It would sure make moving things up and down a whole lot easier. That is what I did and it worked out very well.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

I don’t think the inspector would appreciate the lift.
Though, at my last house I built the kids a 2 story tree fort and they had an elevator that used a Harbor Freight hoist to get them the 13’ up into the fort.

 

[bobbyjean]

Jack T- off topic question--is the torsion spring for the garage door mounted directly to stud's?
garage looks really nice,what type of mini split are you using?

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Hey Bobby, looks to me that the spring has attachments on the rails at either end and also to the studs in the middle of the bar. Later today I will more closely inspect both doors, and take better pictures. The front door will get an 8500 and the back will likely remain manual, and locked.

As for splits, Mitsubishi seems like a great brand, but until I get my upstairs designed for the home theater I’m not sure what my total load will be, so sizing hasn’t been determined yet. Being in Buffalo, we actually get 4 seasons. It goes from -10*F to 100*F where I live and everything in between.

The HT presents some of its own challenges because of people density and the thousands of watts being consumed in the space at any given time. Also, you want the room as quiet as possible, so there are many considerations when purchasing and installing.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

Here are some more pics of the doors.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

More pictures of the ceiling and the obstacles.
The 12” beam is 14’ from the back wall. The 16” beam is 10’ from front wall.
The man door in the back is 28” from corner. I could probably sneak a staircase against that back wall, but it may be steep and/or too narrow?

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

I’ve been researching code stuff and it looks like if I want to finish the upstairs the stairs need to meet code for a finished space, 3’ wide 7.5 rise and 10” run.

What if I divide the upstairs into 2 rooms, 1 is unfinished attic and the other is finished?