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Building my first metal building, feedback needed

mauls

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Kansas City
Hello everyone, building my first metal building and was curious if this quote has everything needed, and was the pricing adequate with today's costs.

30x50x14 with 3 10ft doors and 1 walk in door


Any feedback or tips appreciated.
 

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matt_i

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Edit: my assumption below is that its a tubular steel framed building based on framing gage = 14.

Installation = dirt jumped out from your quote.

Its your building but personally I'd get the exact dimensions from the builder and pre-pour a concrete slab so the siding overlaps the sides of the concrete slab.

If you did go the concrete route, I think it would be nicer to put PVC conduit stubs thru the slab for AC power and low voltage wiring that would land inside the wall.
 
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i4ni

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Jan 23, 2010
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The Devil is always in the details so if I were you the first thing I'd do is get a detailed materials list of exactly what is included in this package. Chances are you're getting the bare bones economy version that you may not be happy with. Do your self a giant favor and research basic pole barn construction till you're sick of it so you're somewhat familiar with what you want. Seek out reputable experts to deal with and pick their brains for insight on what or who to avoid and commit to nothing until you know exactly what you're getting. Good Luck
 

Mr. D

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N. Alabama
That quote is confusing to read but I agree with Matt, put it on concrete and/or price out a pole barn build.
 
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mauls

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Mar 2, 2010
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Kansas City
thanks for the feedback, I was hoping to buy the building this year (for tax write off purposes) then have the slab poured after, but can do the slab first than the building later. I'll keep doing more research as well. I've always worked in a residential garage so this is a huge step for me. Budget is always a factor but would like to get the best bang for my buck.
 

matt_i

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At minimum I'd purchase it for concrete if intended for concrete that way at least you get some anchors you can use rather than paying for ground anchors (guessing helical) which likely aren't needed. While it is painful to do all the research up-front, the more detail you can load into your plan before you spend the first dollar, the better the end result.
 

Hobby_Man22

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tx
You want to a dirt floor? Why? You drop a washer and it will be gone forever.
 

MustangRick

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KC
Check into QSI for a competing bid, I have had a few friends in the area use them a few years ago and were happy. There is also an Amish builder up North that supposedly does an amazing job, but I have not figured out who they are.
 

Lou's Garage

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Feb 12, 2008
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Anderson, SC
In 2020 I built a 30x50 with 15' walls. Others have already mentioned a slab, as long as it's to size and square the building should fit with the siding overlapping the edge. Build it with footings to match your frost line (12", no frost line in SC). Be careful about putting in conduit for future electric or other services. In some zoning areas this turns your slab into a foundation: building permits get more complicated which always runs up construction cost. That was the case here.

I noticed you have no insulation. The lowly R-5 bubble insulation is wonderful in my building in this area. Temperature change indoors is gradual, there is no sweating, and definitely no "rain" inside our building. It will be easy to control temperature and humidity once heat and a/c is installed.

You may want a few more windows. I put mine (5) at the 10' level, they let light in while too high for prying eyes.

I noticed you only spec'd one 10x10 door. I have 3; two on the end and one in the side. It makes a tremendous difference in ventilation.

The upgrade to 12 guage is not too expensive, you might consider that for a building as large as yours will be. They can also double-up the uprights for a nominal fee.

I hope this helps, these were all items I spec'd for my building and am happy I did.

Lou Manglass
 
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Max78

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Tucson, AZ
Is this the versa tube system, or a red iron building?

I have seen versa tube systems be installed right on dirt, and on piers like a poll barn, then they installed the concrete inside to make it a floating slab. This building is quite big to be a versa tube though.

Red iron needs to be on piers at the very least, and then you can pour a floating slab.

Keep in mind that doing a slab after the fact is going to be more expensive. You have to either use a buggy, or pump it in.
 
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mauls

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Mar 2, 2010
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Kansas City
Is this the versa tube system, or a red iron building?

I have seen versa tube systems be installed right on dirt, and on piers like a poll barn, then they installed the concrete inside to make it a floating slab. This building is quite big to be a versa tube though.

Red iron needs to be on piers at the very least, and then you can pour a floating slab.

Keep in mind that doing a slab after the fact is going to be more expensive. You have to either use a buggy, or pump it in.
Yes versa tube. I've worked it out with the builder of our home and we can get the slab poured first before the shop install so we will be good either way.

Thanks everyone for the input/advice!
 

nickstar

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Feb 14, 2012
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Georgia
I guess that price seems fair with everything going on today. I had my 45x50x15 red Iron built Sept of 2019, fully insulated with three doors 1 12ft & 2 10ft. and it was just under $37 grand with out the concrete. At that time the versatube building quotes for my size were not much less than then what I paid for my building. My advice is to make your decision after you have gotten multiple quotes on every type of building you may be interested in, then make your decision. That way you know you have gotten the best bang for your buck.
Good luck and keep us posted. Here is a shot of my home shop when It was first done in 2019

20190909_141731[1].jpeg20200724_184714[1].jpg
 

brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
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my 30x36x10 was $5000 with concrete in 2005. at that time concrete was $29 a yard
 
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