Building my own Laminated Pole Barn Columns

[BuickFarmer]

Having not been able to find a dealer anywhere close (200 mile radius of Athens GA) I am considering building my own out of a combination of 3 layers of treated and untreated 2x6's. I have found a local supplier for the .60 treated pine 2x6's. I plan to build a jig to keep them all straight and butted up to each other as they are being nailed. I will flip the crowns of every other one and walk them down straight as I shoot two staggered rows of galvanized ring shank nails every 18 inches. My currently planned layout plan for the 16' posts is, as you are looking at the post from the side and left (ground end) to right, the bottom layer would be 6' PTP and 10' SPF. The middle layer would be 8' PTP and 8' SPF. The top layer would be 4' PTP and 12' SPF. (I plan to bury my posts 42") As the poles will end up being enclosed in the wall and cosmetics is not an issue, I will use Simpson Strong Ties on the two outer joints. I do not plan to use glue. The lengths of the SPF will increase as necessary for post lengths up to the max that I will need, which is 22 ft.
I would be interested to hear from members who might have laminated poles from Menards or Graber Post Buildings and what the lay out for a standard store bought laminated 16' post would be.

Thoughts, opinions???

 

[KANSASBOY]

Around here we call that type of post a Morton . I never used that type but I have use the type in this video http://clearybuilding10.rtrk.com/?scid=2857442&kw=1928389:18337&pub_cr_id=1516609644

 

[shelbyz28]

Might be worth reading this; http://www1.fpl.fs.fed.us/fplrp503.pdf

 

[rieferman]

Your plan sounds pretty much on the money to me. I would recommend looking up post sleeves which would eliminate any potential post rotting. They're pretty inexpensive and light to work with.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The nails have to be hot dipped galvanized NOT electro-pate (too thin). If you can't find them use stainless steel ring shank nails. 20d would be good, 30d would be better.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would recommend looking up post sleeves which would eliminate any potential post rotting.

If you use 48" sonotubes with a "big foot" base, you should be about 6" above grade. Set a J bolt in the top of the concrete and use a Simpson post base. Then you can use SPF and not worry about rot.

 

[Thumper68]

I would add construction adhesive, pick up a pneumatic gun, a base board adaptor and glue away, that's what I did when I made some.

 

[rieferman]

Btw, here's the type of product I mean:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Post-Pro...t-Protector-Case-of-6-Pieces-6660C6/203165692


(note, their price says "each" but they mean "case of 6 protectors" if you look deeper)

I still have my subscription to Rural Builder magazine, and have seen many positive reviews for this type of product. Perma columns are still the gold standard, but I would give this a close second "silver standard" rating. Whereas poles directly in the ground is just now how I'd do it regardless of what the old timers will tell you about how theirs lasted for 700 years etc. I've made money selling new posts to pole barn owners with 10 year old buildings.

 

[mbatarga]

What do you gain by using your lengths of 6', 8', and 4' PT if you are only submerging 42" deep?

Why don't you use 4', 8', 4' - that way you purchase 8' length 2x6 PT lumber and are able to use qty 2 per "post?"

 

[theoldwizard1]

I still have my subscription to Rural Builder magazine, and have seen many positive reviews for this type of product. Perma columns are still the gold standard, but I would give this (Post Protector) a close second "silver standard" rating.

Perma-Columns are not available in all parts of the country and I don't have any idea what their cost s.

Actually I would have guessed an 8-10" sonotube with a "BigFoot" to extends 6-12" above ground would be the "gold standard", followed by Perma-Columns.

 

[Sims5]

My permacolumns cost me around $100 per post. We'll worth it for me, I've fixed rotted off 6x6 before. Not fun!

 

[BuickFarmer]

Thanks every body for your input. shelbyz28, the USDA Forestry Service paper was very good reading and it appears my plan wasn't that far off from meeting most of the specs spelled out in it. BUT, I have found a source for 3 ply laminated columns just outside of Chattanooga and have decided to just make a run up there and buy them there.
http://graberpost.com/products/laminated-columns
They will only be about 25% more than if I bought all the materials and made them myself.
Again, thanks for your input.

 

[914wilhelm]

Isn't the advantage of a pole barn that the posts are in the ground and prevent the walls from falling over? The disadvantage of perma-columns is they provide no bending moment at the interface between the concrete column and the post. Therefore you have to build your walls as shear walls with plywood nailed to the posts. In other words you essentially end up doing close to conventional construction hooked to the earth at just a few posts. This kind of negates the economy of a pole barn. Or am I missing something important?

 

[rieferman]

Post frame strength does come from the poles being in the ground (along with the skeleton - girts plus sheathing or steel) and the perma columns just eliminate the weakest part of the equation (rot in the ground). The rep told me once that in break testing the joint between concrete and pole failed after the pole (i.e. it's a strong joint). That said, I think the protective sleeves accomplish the same goal with more economy and ease of install.

 

[GreenLBZ]

Have you considered using steel instead? Like drill stem pipe? In Texas, if it stays wet, it rots off quick. I know further north is different. I'm slowing digging out 10 year old landscape timbers used for fence posts in my yard, jacking out the concrete slugs and replacing them with galvanized pipe that I should get at least 30 years out of. But it's a HUGE pita!

When I was a kid, my Dad and I build all kinds of stuff with drill stem as corner posts and support posts, and 30 years later, it looks almost like it hasn't aged. I'll admit though that I'm a lot more comfortable working with steel than lumber.

 

[garagebuilder]

Your design is correct