Building my son a desk....edging ideas please

[ChristopherLutz]

Hi Gang,

I'm doing an "industrial look" in my son's bedroom (he's 12 and wants it "man-ly") <grin>

Anyway, I want to build him a desk - my plan was to use plyood or a combo of plywood and MDF for the top, along with Galvanized pipe legs on each corner.

I'll paint the desk top to match the dresser I just finished...flat black, distressed. (with galvanized pipe drawer pulls)

Initially, I had planned to use a solid core door for this; however - they're pretty expensive. I've moved on to the idea of gluing 2 sheets of plywood or MDF together and cutting to size.

I'll cut small wood squares for the bottom of each corner so that when I screw in the galvanized pipe flanges, the screws will have 3 sheets of wood to grab/hold.

I'm not sure what I should do with the edge of the plywood to finish it off.

I'd love some ideas - thanks.

 

[zer01]

Diamond plate aluminum, flat stock, Threshold carpet trim, Plexiglas with big screw heads, old barn wood.

 

[ddawg16]

Angle iron, channel, flat stock..........

I agree......except I would go Aluminum....easier to work with...and keep clean....no painting...just hit it with a Scotch Brite.

For the desk top...you might want to consider Melamine.....great surface to write on and keep clean. You can get different colors...I made all of my garage cabinets of gray Malamine. And the AL angle would work nicely....cut a notch at each corner...bend....attach to the edges....but I would put the angle on top....give the top a framed look and it will stop penciles from rolling off.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Buffed aluminum is great because a scotch brite pad will restore the surface after pencils, pens or anything else marks it. Steel with a spray of clear coat on it would work, too.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I'll go against the grain (pun intended) and suggest strips of wood with rounded edges, finished to match the top. A person's forearms tend to rest on the edge of the desk, and hard metal edges will be pretty uncomfortable. In addition, it will gouge up the wall over time, and accidentally walking into a sharp metal edge or corner in the dark won't feel very good, either.

 

[blaze_125]

A computer desk?
Does he play computer games?

 

[Red05GT]

+1 on the wood edging for safety in a kids room.

 

[rockchucker]

At the age of 12 I think you could do away with the Rubber Protective Corners and Receptacle Plugs...lol Or I HOPE so!

I really like the Diamond Plate Idea with PlexiGlass over the Surface. You could even Glue a 1"-1 1/2" drop around the sides. If you are worried about the corners being sharp just 45 them at about 6". Same as a Speed Square if you were to put it to the corner and trace it.

I also like the idea of Melamine. You could trim it out with your choice of Real Wood or MDF. Just remember to use a brand new Saw Blade and cut that stuff upside-down. A 45 Degree cut on the Corners would work well on that also. Raise the Trim up around the Edges and make it pivot on the front Legs so you can raise it in the back and use it as a Drafting Table also.

 

[lilredex]

I'd also go for the wood, and clip off the corners while you're at it. You could finish the top edge with a router when all installed, with some decorative features too, if you wish.

Something like this older work. Material looks like Pine. It was some scrap wood that I re-sawed and ran through the router.

Hosted on Fotki

 

[djjsr]

Another option is using edgeband. It comes in various woods and a few other materials. I've found the iron-on stuff real easy to apply and trim with a single edge razor blade.

You can usually get it at stores that carry woodworking supplies or order it online.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005544/Fastedge-Edge-Banding.aspx

 

[lupinsea]

If you use a high quality euro-ply you could finish the edge as-is. You've probably seen pictures of this but it's a very consistent plywood free of voids so that when you have an exposed edge it looks neat and tidy. No holes.

This isn't the best picture but . . . Sand down, varnish, and polish up the edge and it can look good. Maybe even do a formica top lamination for durability. It costs more for the higher grade of plywood but you might save the cost difference depending on alternative edge treatments. The big box stores won't carry this. You'd need to find more of a specialty plywood / wood supplier. And if you wanted a thickened edge look then you can either glue two sheets together (which should be strong enought o take the pipe flanges) or simply glue a piece to the edges only to beef the look of those up.

In another thread I posted about the steel c-chanel edge trim I did for my kitchen remodel. I ground down the welds and rounded the corners so it wouldn't be so sharp. But I left some of the grinder marks which i liked to see.

 

[ddawg16]

Another option for a top....butcher block....HD carries 24"x48" sheets....I think it's only 3/4" of an inch thick....but it's tough enough that it would not need edging....just a little sanding.

I would avoid the iron on edging for anything else....it does not hold up well to in something like a desk....especially the front edge...in no time the top edge will be getting pulled back...

 

[Flathead Red]

Solid core door is the way to go. I got several at the Habitat for Humanity Re-Store for cheap for my workbench counter tops.

Red

 

[thump186]

I would say some tread brite aluminium but for a kids room i would say use some half round glued and screwed on the edges to trim it up.

 

[jgger]

New guy here.

You could edge it with chair rail, it comes in quite a few widths.
For the "industrial" top you could use 1/4 inch masonite glued down to the plywood top. Then just stain/paint the edging and shoot the whole thing with clear.

 

[bahamasair]

I just made one with polished concrete tops. I like it so much I'm making everything I can now out of concrete This is a real crappy celphone pic and wasn't finished. I even made the keyboard drawer out of concrete it weighs 80lbs lol. You cant see it in the pic but after you polish the concrete its as shiny as granite

 

[GarageEnvy]

In my area you can get granite remnants for just about nothing. Even an 8' long counter with bullnosed edge for under $100. I've also scrounged some stainless that had a rolled front edge and built-in backsplash from old and damaged restaurant equipment. The last idea I tried but failed was running a cove bit around the edge of a desk and then laying in pipe. It would have been really cool but I had a heck of a time getting the bends in just the right spot so that the pipe perfectly wrapped into the cove. You might consider a decorative metal top with grinder marks on it too. I've seen that one but never done it.

 

[Cardboard Man]

I'm typing this at my custom desk I built several years ago. I used plywood as a base then applied oak parquet floor tile as the desk top. I used bull-nosed oak stair treads (2in. wide) for the edging that gives it a nice finished look and is comfortable to work at. I know this isn't quite the look you're going for but I thought I'd just add my ideas to the rest.

 

[737mechanic]

I built both my kids computer desk and I did the same thing you are doing. I glued and screwed 2 pieces of plywood together and then used iron-on real wood edging. Below are a couple pics. I don't have any close ups of the edging but it turned out perfect. It is a heavy desk and will last a lifetime. I after I ironed on the edging I sanded then stained and applied 4 or 5 coats of polyrathane.

Here is what I used and I got it at home depot. It is easy to apply with a regular cloths iron and once installed it is hard to remove.

 

[Rando]

I built both my kids computer desk and I did the same thing you are doing. I glued and screwed 2 pieces of plywood together and then used iron-on real wood edging. Below are a couple pics. I don't have any close ups of the edging but it turned out perfect. It is a heavy desk and will last a lifetime. I after I ironed on the edging I sanded then stained and applied 4 or 5 coats of polyrathane.

Here is what I used and I got it at home depot. It is easy to apply with a regular cloths iron and once installed it is hard to remove.

That is a nice station. You should sell those better than some cheap walmart ****

 

[N8]

For funs sake you could look into a rubber bull nose application.
I really like what lipinsea has done and the angle iron idea but either way make sure you ease the edges and corners.

 

[Ryan_C]

I just made one with polished concrete tops. I like it so much I'm making everything I can now out of concrete This is a real crappy celphone pic and wasn't finished. I even made the keyboard drawer out of concrete it weighs 80lbs lol. You cant see it in the pic but after you polish the concrete its as shiny as granite

Did you pour this or were the pieces remnants? Awesome work!

I also am reminded of how awesome concrete looks when I visit many of the local Scott's Grocery stores that were all bought by Kroger. Looks to me that they ripped up all the old tile. They then dye the concrete with some spray and then polish it. I don't know for sure if this is how it's done, but when we stopped in Saturday, in the Deli and Bakery end, it was totally badass and up near the checkouts, you could see some sections that had overspray and not polished. I am thinking they are using the original concrete that was poured. Is my thinking correct?

 

[bahamasair]

I missed this reply.
Yes they are using the original concrete and running a huge polisher over it and using acid stains to give it whatever color they want. I poured all the slabs myself and bought a concrete polisher with all the disks for $250 off of ebay To make the bullnose edge I cut a piece of 2" pvc pipe in half and screwed them to the inside of the forms. We did my neighbors kitchen counters and they are damn sweet. I added concrete stain to the concrete when I mixed it so the color goes all the way through. I even polished my driveway lol. I'm going to build my guest bathroom vanity top with integrated sinks using concrete and will even make the sliding doors from concrete slabs. Everyone who feels the polished concrete tops freaks out and cant stop rubbing them lol. When I made the desk I made the keyboard drawer out of a 2 1/4" slab and used heavy duty drawer slides and it rolls beautifully. None of my friends believed it was going to work.
Once you start messing with it you realize how much you can actually do with it. I even made a shaving vanity top that just gradually slopes to a sink that is all part of the poured top. I made it so water jets come out of a ridge round the outside because I'm too lazy to wash up after shaving. I just hit the lever and the jets wash everything off the top of the vanity into the sink

 

[bimmer1980]

I liek the concrete as well.... can you post some pics of the water jets? that sounds cool.... maybe start a new thread and show case it...

back on topic--a wood banding would look good and would be durable. especially if you used a hardwood.

 

[mrb]

use 13 ply birch. Laminate two sheets for the top, then laminate a strip around the edge to make it look even thicker. Sand well and polyurethane. I love how the edge of the high ply cound wood looks.

 

[Interex]

I built both my kids computer desk and I did the same thing you are doing. I glued and screwed 2 pieces of plywood together and then used iron-on real wood edging. Below are a couple pics. I don't have any close ups of the edging but it turned out perfect. It is a heavy desk and will last a lifetime. I after I ironed on the edging I sanded then stained and applied 4 or 5 coats of polyrathane.

Nice build! How much did you put into it all?

 

[sctattooer]

Outwater plastics have some awesome extrusions. Just cut a groove in the center of your outer edge on the table saw, and push in whatever you'd like. Rubber edge, chrome, brass, you name it.


http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_Master_Catalog/page/9

 

[737mechanic]

Nice build! How much did you put into it all?

1 1/4 16 gauge tubing was about $15.00.
3/4 hardwood plywood was about $23.00 for 4x8 sheet
Keyboard rails was $11.00
2" wood edging $8.00
Nonskid feet $10.00
Metalic grey paint and clear coat for the frame $15.00


I ripped 2 2'x4' sheets of plywood and glued and screwed them together then added the wood edging then sanded, stained and 3 or 4 coats of semi clear polyurethane.

The frame is 1 1/14 16 gauge tubing I welded to the size I wanted.

The shelves are made from the remaining plywood and I took the same 2" wood edging and slit it down the middle so I would not have to buy 3/4 wood edging.

The first one came out so good I built another for my other kid. These are the most sturdy desk I have seen and they are custom built for there size and room space.

 

[superjet]

Hi Gang,

I'm doing an "industrial look" in my son's bedroom (he's 12 and wants it "man-ly") <grin>

Anyway, I want to build him a desk - my plan was to use plyood or a combo of plywood and MDF for the top, along with Galvanized pipe legs on each corner.

I'll paint the desk top to match the dresser I just finished...flat black, distressed. (with galvanized pipe drawer pulls)

Initially, I had planned to use a solid core door for this; however - they're pretty expensive. I've moved on to the idea of gluing 2 sheets of plywood or MDF together and cutting to size.

I'll cut small wood squares for the bottom of each corner so that when I screw in the galvanized pipe flanges, the screws will have 3 sheets of wood to grab/hold.

I'm not sure what I should do with the edge of the plywood to finish it off.

I'd love some ideas - thanks.

Since you want an industrial look, you might try the vinyl diamond plate. It would be easy, and later when he's outgrown it, you can peel it off and finish it with something different.

http://www.stickercity.com/chrome-vinyl-sheets-and-brushed-metal-vinyl-sheets/