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Building new garage

Pal865

New member
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
2
Hi all,new member here looking for some advice.Im having a garage built connected to my gable end.The purpose of this is to store my 2001 clk430,so looking for advice on insulation of roof,Walls and floor.The garage is being built double skin bricks on the outside and block inside with a flat roof and an insulated aluminium roller shutter door.I want to plaster board the walls and ceiling,should I insulate behind the boards and is there anything I could put in or on the floor for the same purpose??Many thanks:dunno:
 
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kd3pc

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Joined
Aug 10, 2013
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3,630
Location
Northern Neck
all depends on whether you are going to keep it AC/Heated all year...and where you live.

Brick veneer and block are not very high insulators...so for sure either stud out with 2x6 and insulate or spray between them OR layer foam boards to get the R value you desire..

floor - radiant/hot water is likely the most economical, but will be higher initial cost....else insulated slab construction and footers as well.
 
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Pal865

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Oct 25, 2013
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2
Yes good point.i'm in Bolton,Manchester England can be rather damp here!!!!!!
 
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MScott

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Jun 30, 2009
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Location
Eastern Ontario
Yes good point.i'm in Bolton,Manchester England can be rather damp here!!!!!!

Why not put that information in your profile? Just click on User CP and add it to your details. That way someone who wants to help doesn't have to look through the whole thread to find it.
 

kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
First we need to know the difference between moisture and water vapor.
Moisture is water.
Water vapor is just that, a vapor.
The water has not yet condensed into moisture.

Masonry, in general, is not moisture proof.
Stone and brick will let rain and snow moisture through.

And vapor follows heat from warm to cold.
And condenses along the way.

So you want your vapor barrier, often plastic sheeting, on the warm side.
(In your case the inside.)
And you want your moisture barrier, Tyvek or tar paper, on the cool side.
(In your case the outside of the framed wall.)

Your masonry should be thought of as a leaky siding.
It will need “weep” holes at the bottom course for drainage of the moisture that will form in the space between it and the frame wall.
 

monkeybar

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Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
52
Location
Arizona side of Colorado River
Your masonry should be thought of as a leaky siding.
It will need “weep” holes at the bottom course for drainage of the moisture that will form in the space between it and the frame wall.

Generally good information. Just wanted to add that geographical area alters it considerably in certain respects.

In the U.S. Desert Southwest, relative humidity averaging under 30%, much lower much of the time, occasionally under 5%, with short-term "spikes" to 60% or more during summer month monsoonal activity, movement of moisture through rock, stonework, brick, and concrete is quite minimal.

In my case, building my own home of framed construction using all plywood wall sheathing, then 100% baked clay brick veneer, the building inspector required "weep" holes, which I dutifully provided. Later, it was found that various small desert denizens had found their way into the 1" space between brick and sheathing, including CARPENTER ANTS. He signed off on the house, the garage not having been even started, though it was part of the permit. The garage had NO weep holes.

Unless construction allows movement of air between veneer and sheathing, the only condensable water there is the meager amount originally trapped.

monkey
 
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