Building sequence question...

[WI/MI Border]

First garage build in 40+ years. Things have changed a bit since I "winged it" back then.

Trusses are up, plumbed and spaced as closely as they're going to be. I've finished installing 2x6 sub-facia and will finish 1x8 facia today. I'm thinking about next steps in the build so I've thrown together a sequence list as best I understand the steps.

• Sheathing the roof. I'll add some stop blocks along the eves to help keep the sheathing aligned with them. I'm comfortable with the process of sheathing the roof. Leaving ridge vent gap along peak.
• Ice/water barrier along eves
• Felt/underlayment/whatever you call it next. Stapled down on the sheathing.
• Aluminum drip edge all around the edges.
• Starter shingles along eves
• Shingle roof. Add ridge vent and shingle over them.
• Fit aluminum soffit and facia.

If you see any steps missing or out of the order you would do them please let me know. I'm about a week from starting sheathing the roof.

Thanks, Tim

 

[gizardlizard]

Your roofing sequence is wrong. Ice/water on bare roof deck at least 36” up. Then put your drip edge on top of the ice/water but only on the eave sides. Then put your deck armor or sharkskin on the entire roof. Then, install the rake drip edge over the deck armor.

 

[matt_i]

Agree on drip edge going on first on the low edges. Ice+water over top of that. Don't forget H-clips for keeping sheathing panel edges aligned. Hopefully you have uplift bracketry (Simpson H1Z, etc) or drove long screws into the bottom chord for same.

I was really impressed with the toughness and water shedding capability of the woven / synthetic underlayment. I used Grace Tri-Flex but I think GAF/Cobra might have an equivalent version with more traction. I lapped the last sheet of underlayment over the ridge gap and never saw a drop of water inside while I was shingling.

 

[WI/MI Border]

Thanks guys. I'll follow Matt's sequence of drip edge under the ice and water membrane. Yes I'm using the synthetic underlayment as well.

On a "This Old House" episode about drip edge they suggested the drip edge should be spaced away from the roof edge about a finger's width. They did a series of tests with the drip edge at different spacing; from against the facia, to spaced out about half to three quarters of an inch. The water flow worked best spaced away from the facia. The only question I have about that is how the top of the facia is held by the drip edge. I've seen drip edge firmly holding the facia top in place and nailed on the flange underneath. I've also seen facia nailed on the face but it resulted in a very wavey look where the nails distorted it. Any suggestions of how to properly nailing facia?

 

[mm08822]

Thanks guys. I'll follow Matt's sequence of drip edge under the ice and water membrane. Yes I'm using the synthetic underlayment as well.

On a "This Old House" episode about drip edge they suggested the drip edge should be spaced away from the roof edge about a finger's width. They did a series of tests with the drip edge at different spacing; from against the facia, to spaced out about half to three quarters of an inch. The water flow worked best spaced away from the facia. The only question I have about that is how the top of the facia is held by the drip edge. I've seen drip edge firmly holding the facia top in place and nailed on the flange underneath. I've also seen facia nailed on the face but it resulted in a very wavey look where the nails distorted it. Any suggestions of how to properly nailing facia?

I've always run my gable drip-edge tight to the sheathing, but the roof plane was cut reasonably straight.
Snap a line parallel to the roof gable edge and see what ins/outs there are. Adjust the overall nailing off of that line to form a straight line from peak to soffit as you nail the drip edge.

Having both sides drip-edged, provides the necessary dimensions to adjust the starting center-lines for 3-tab shingles. (Doesn't matter for the arch. laminated shingles.)

Do the same for the soffit edge to apply drip edge, then apply ice/water barrier on top of it just meeting the bottom of the drip edge. The soffit drip-edge and distance to ridge, provide insight to the course adjustment that may be needed. Check a few times as you progress. You want the courses along the ridge to be parallel to the capping otherwise it looks like ****.

 

[Hank11]

I agree with what the others have written, but I’d look at just doing the entire roof deck with a stick and peel membrane.