Building shelves from 2x4's

[CoconutPete]

So I have always wanted to do this. Just one of those projects that seem fun.

I have a corner of my garage that would be perfect for this. In the neighborhood of 2' wide, in the neighborhood of 4' deep (or the opposite depending on where you stand).

I should probably mention that I envision these being very much "built-in"

The garage isn't insulated, so I'll use this as an opportunity to yank down the drywall and throw some R13 in there and slap up some new drywall, giving me perfect marks to mount this sucker into the wall.

Does anyone have a favorite technique? Bracing, etc? I see a ton of different ways to go about this and am just looking for feedback on techniques you might have used.

I have been trying to find a way where there is some sort of bracing involved. In other words 1 long 2x4 as the main "leg" and individual pieces of 2 or 3' length bolted to it for strength.

Does anyone have tips or pics they can share?

Thanks

 

[evildky]

I had a few 2'x4' shelves in my garage, I made the shelves al simple 2"x4" framed boxes with ribs at 16" centers. I then use a single vertical upright so I could hang the shelves at the height I wanted and later move them as needed without disrupting the other shelves. I then added another section and another upright. Worked well until I decided I wanted wire shelves for better light penetration, also I found most shelves landed at one fo three heights. The lowest was basically work height, plenty of space to roll garbage cans or engine under. the next shelf up is eye height, this way I can see and reach all the way to the back of the shelp, the top shelf was reach height, basically as high as i can reach without needing to climb on stuff ro find something to stand on, if your ceiling height allows you may add a higher shelf for long term storage that will require a stool/ladder etc to access.

 

[kbs2244]

I nail the back horizontal to the studs and attach Simpson hangers
The Front legs have the Simpson at matching heights.
Front to back shelf supports go into the hangers.

1/2 inch ply shelves with 8 penny nails into the front to back supports stiffens things up.
Deck screws for the Simpsons

I use old bed frame angle iron under the front edge of the shelves to prevent sag.
They WILL sag otherwise.

And I cut and paint all surfaces of the legs and shelves white the day before assembly.
It both looks clean and makes it brighter when looking for something.

 

[wssix99]

Does anyone have a favorite technique? Bracing, etc? I see a ton of different ways to go about this and am just looking for feedback on techniques you might have used.

Go to a good lumberyard and get an oak or poplar 2X4 for that main, load bearing leg. Then use 2X4 fence brackets as "joist hangars" and build a lattice like you would for a deck. Cap and wrap the "deck" (top, sides, and bottom) with nice plywood.

 

[Superwilly]

Build 'em just like this... so simple, and you can handle the weight of a horse on each shelf. Been doing it this way for years, and always marvel at how complex (and how much more wood) some other designs are... with no added strength or functionality.

Put posts at 4' intervals for even more shelf strength of course. I typically make sure my shelf height and depth will accommodate Rubbermaid bins among other things.

<a href="https://ibb.co/iG6DOd"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/hrEdpJ/Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM.png" alt="Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM" border="0"></a>

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I kinda did the same thing you're describing...I framed out the walls with 2x6s, used R19 faced insulation and put 7/16 plywood down, then I build the shelf frame work and screwed the back side to studs. I put another 2x4 on the inside corner for supporton the outter edges. Under the bolt bin I put 2 little legs and made bottom bin.

I had about 20 left over 2x4x16s when I built my barn last year, I wasnt aware that the kit wanted you to use those for pole bracing once you put the posts in the ground so I went to the local hardware store and got 2x4x8s and ended up with a lot of extras

 

[firebirdparts]

Build 'em just like this... so simple, and you can handle the weight of a horse on each shelf. Been doing it this way for years, and always marvel at how complex (and how much more wood) some other designs are... with no added strength or functionality.

Put posts at 4' intervals for even more shelf strength of course. I typically make sure my shelf height and depth will accommodate Rubbermaid bins among other things.

<a href="https://ibb.co/iG6DOd"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/hrEdpJ/Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM.png" alt="Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM" border="0"></a>

Mine are just like that. 2feet wide. They served me very well.

 

[73fxe]

I did the same but attached a 2x4 under the horizontal 2x4 for support. Then everything is not hanging on nails.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Build 'em just like this... so simple, and you can handle the weight of a horse on each shelf. Been doing it this way for years, and always marvel at how complex (and how much more wood) some other designs are... with no added strength or functionality.

Put posts at 4' intervals for even more shelf strength of course. I typically make sure my shelf height and depth will accommodate Rubbermaid bins among other things.

<a href="https://ibb.co/iG6DOd"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/hrEdpJ/Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM.png" alt="Screen_Shot_2018_07_20_at_8_30_12_PM" border="0"></a>

I'd be concerned with how much weight they'll hold. To increase my trust in them, the posts would be lapped with the front rails to help distribute the shelf load to the lumber instead of it all riding on the screws through the posts.

Still haven't decided if this type of shelf is what I'm going to build for my under-the-workbench storage or bite the bullet and buy cheap HF toolboxes. A few a each, perhaps!

 

[pancho400cid]

Don't do what I did and space the shelves vertically about 1/2" shorter than those awesome big plastic tote bins from the box store....DOAPPP!!!!

 

[chriskthx]

Looks awesome!

 

[Dagny]

I like to put what amounts to soldier studs between the shelves and behind the vertical 2x4s . Takes the stress off the nails.

 

[Superwilly]

I'd be concerned with how much weight they'll hold. To increase my trust in them, the posts would be lapped with the front rails to help distribute the shelf load to the lumber instead of it all riding on the screws through the posts.

Still haven't decided if this type of shelf is what I'm going to build for my under-the-workbench storage or bite the bullet and buy cheap HF toolboxes. A few a each, perhaps!

The weight doesn't all ride on the post screws. You're also screwing the back underside of each shelf to every stud in your wall with two #10 deck screws or equivalent. Then add the strength of three #10 deck screws per shelf where it intersects the posts. If you're putting posts at 4' intervals, you could place 1000 lbs+ on each shelf with no issues. If you need more weight capacity than this design, you should be using metal.

 

[kbs2244]

"I like to put what amounts to soldier studs between the shelves and behind the vertical 2x4s . Takes the stress off the nails. "

This is my concern and the reason I use the Simpson hangers on the back side of the front legs and the face of the wall horizontal.

Other than that, the PIC is how mine are built.

But they should have painted it before assembly.
It is a lot easier than trying to get into the corners after it is up.

 

[Norcal]

I bought a bunch of microfiche viewers (9) at auction from the local State university for about $3.33 each, most were particle board with a dark walnut Formica (plastic laminate) on both sides, knocked them all down & removed all hardware, then ripped them into 24" wide pieces, then they were built pretty much the same as the photos above except used 4 X 4's as support in the front, been in place about 20 years with no problems. The 4 X 4 X 12's were salvaged from pallets used to ship aluminum sheet.

 

[finn]

I used 1x4 or 2x2 screwed to the studs for a ledger board to support the back of the shelves. Plenty strong for my use.

Also, space the front support posts farther than 4’ or you are always fighting the posts. Deeper shelves aren’t always better, as you can’t reach the back without a ladder, and the stuff behind the first row tends to be forgotten.

I personally find that depth beyond 12”-16” isn’t very useful.

I would size the depth of deeper shelves to fit common bins, and plan to eventually put some sort of doors on the front, preferably sliding rather than swing out, to control dust accumulation.

 

[blinn]

In the picture posted, how do you get out of your car?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[torqueman2002]

Good thread.

I offer this as food for thought. "When to Use Nails Vs. When To Use Screws"

"... test clearly shows that nails are the better choice for structural construction framing where joints and lumber can shift and twist."
https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/how-to/a18606/nails-vs-screws-which-one-is-stronger/

 

[finn]

Good thread.

I offer this as food for thought. "When to Use Nails Vs. When To Use Screws"

"... test clearly shows that nails are the better choice for structural construction framing where joints and lumber can shift and twist."
https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/how-to/a18606/nails-vs-screws-which-one-is-stronger/

Maybe better than drywall screws, but vastly inferior to structural screws like GRKs and numerous others now on the market.

Nails are cheaper, though.

 

[Firebrick43]

Good thread.

I offer this as food for thought. "When to Use Nails Vs. When To Use Screws"

"... test clearly shows that nails are the better choice for structural construction framing where joints and lumber can shift and twist."
https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/how-to/a18606/nails-vs-screws-which-one-is-stronger/

That test is so bogus. That is showing fatigue failure not shear failure. If joints are moving that much to fatigue a screw you have serious issues.

As Finn stated before, structural screws such as GRK, spax, and Simpson strongtie are stronger than nails. In a previous thread data showed by nearly three times in shear for a GRK trim screw compared to a 16 penny common nail.

 

[PWC Repair]

Check out the last page or two of my build thread for my rack-o-shelves.

 

[wssix99]

In the picture posted, how do you get out of your car?

That's silly. Who parks their car in the garage??? Isn't that what the driveway is for?

 

[CoconutPete]

Well I got them 90% built this weekend. Used a combination of techniques from this thread. Thanks for the advice.

 

[wssix99]

Well I got them 90% built this weekend. Used a combination of techniques from this thread. Thanks for the advice.

Will we get to see pictures when they are 100% built???